Lawn Maintenance

How to maintain your new or existing lawn correctly, such as correct watering practices, mowing, fertilising, de-thatching and more.

 

Ongoing Watering

  • Generally watering will be seldom required once fully established,
  • Infrequent deep watering is always recommended on all grasses to help promote a deep root system, this may be once or twice per week, drought tolerant varieties like OZ TUFF, Sir Walter & Empire do not require much ongoing watering.
  • Signs of drought stress;
      - Sir Walter develops a blue tinge and shrivelling of the leaf,
      - Couch grasses and other varieties have browning and shrivelling of the leaf.
  • Leaf death is swift if left unchecked.
  • Watering should be avoided in the middle of the day during summer/spring as the water will quickly evaporate off the leaf and won’t get into the soil anyway, therefore wasting your water & time, save watering for late in the afternoon/evening.

Moisture Testing

  • If your lawn is starting to brown off in patches then it's possible the lawn is suffering from a lack of water, to check this simply poke a shovel or screwdriver into the ground to a depth of about 200mm, if it comes out completely dry then this is a sign it needs more water, 
  • If the test comes out and shows moisture in the top 20-40mm but dry below that, then this is a sign of incorrect watering, where frequent light waterings have been applied, you should immediately change this over to a more infrequent but deeper watering regime, as continued incorrect watering can also lead to grey/brown patches forming from fungal diseases.

ongoing watering

Mowing

  • Regular mowing with sharp blades is recommended for all lawns, frequency will depend on growth rate at the time, use this table below as a guide.
  • For optimal mowing results & the best appearance, use a sharp blade cylinder mower & change the direction you mow in each time.
  • As a general rule of thumb do not cut off more than one third of the leaf at a time.

 

Grass Variety   Winter / Autumn
  & Shaded Areas
  Spring / Summer

  Couch

 - OZTUFF
 - Wintergreen
 - AgriDark

40 – 50mm

15 – 25mm

  Soft Leaf Buffalo

 - Sir Walter
 - New Frontier

50 – 70mm

40 – 50mm

  Zoysia

 - Empire

50 – 60mm

35 – 45mm

De-thatching

De-thatching should be done once a year in spring time.

Thatch is a loose layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the leaves and the soil surface, 'thatch build up' happens when the clippings from mowing & dead leaf build up faster than it can be broken down & used up by the plant.

Purpose built de-thatching/scarifying machines can be purchased or hired *pictured above right*, however the simplest & cheapest method is to set the mower height quite low & use the catcher so that it scalps the grass and removes the thatch, it will be brown and unsightly after this, apply some good quality organic fertiliser like blood & bone or chicken manure and give it regular deep watering for 2 weeks to promote regrowth, your lawn will bounce back better than ever before.

Warning! DO NOT use the 'lawn mower' method on Buffalo or Zoysia grasses, their root structure is different and if you shave them down too low you can totally kill the lawn, your only option for de-thatching Buffalo & Zoysia is to use the purpose built machine or a hand thatching rake *pictured below*

thatching rake2

 

Fertilising

  • Prior to placing your new turf it can be beneficial to apply a starter fertiliser like “Sir Launcher” which has water crystals to help improve the overall drought tolerance of your lawn,
  • Fertilise in early spring, and early autumn to promote growth, avoid over fertilising during the middle of summer,
  • Please note that low nutritional requirement turf types such as OZ TUFF, SIR WALTER & EMPIRE should only really be fertilised once a year as too much fertiliser may reduce the overall strength & drought resistance of your lawn,
  • Sandy soils will require more frequent fertilising as they do not hold organic matter as well as clay types,
  • It's a good idea to alternate between slow release chemical fertilisers and organic products as too much chemical use can also have a negative affect over time,
  • In the peak growing season "spring time" apply mineral and organic fertilisers like dolomite limeblood and bone, or dynamic lifter,
  • If your lawn is ever struggling between fertiliser applications or has some damage from pests, diseases or drought it's best to avoid using high nitrogen or chemical fertilisers to help it recover, we recommend using a natural seaweed based solution, such as Seasol, these products are great because they come in a simple spray on attachment for your hose and there is no issues with over-application,
  • Water in your fertiliser well after each application.

Fertilisers

Top Dressing & Aerating

*Coming soon*