How to Stop Patches from Scalping While Mowing

Have you noticed patches appearing on your lawn from scalping after you have given your lawn a mow? In this blog, we look at why this occurs and how to avoid scalping your lawn when mowing.

Determine Why Your Lawn is Scalping

The first step is to determine why scalping is occurring. Scalping occurs when a lawn is mown too short. When too much of the leaf is removed, it will cause the grass to look brown in patches.

Here are some reasons why scalping might be occurring on your lawn.

  • Has the lawn been growing too long in between mows?
  • Are your lawns levels uneven? Are there high and low sections of the lawn?
  • Does your lawn have an accumulation of thatch?

How to Reset the Height of Your Lawn

If scalping occurs from your lawn growing too long in between mows or an accumulation of thatch it is best to reset the height if your grass.

To do this, give the lawn a low mow a notch or two below your normal/preferred mowing height. If your lawn has an accumulation of thatch, you may need to bring down the mower a few more notches to allow it to reach down into the thatch layer. (When lowering the mowing height on Buffalo it is best to ensure you are not mowing too low and cutting into the runner). After you mow the lawn, it won’t look great at first, but it will be able to recover over the coming weeks. During this recovery period, it is best to ensure you keep water up to the lawn. Raise your mower back up to your preferred mowing height on your next mow. This process is best done while the lawn is actively growing throughout the warmer months and should be avoided in the cooler months while your lawn is growing at a slower rate.

After this, you will need to ensure you are frequently mowing to help avoid scalping the lawn again. As a rule of thumb, mow your lawn frequently enough so that only one-third of the leaf is removed with each pass. This means you will need to mow more frequently in warmer months as the grass grows faster. Conversely, you won’t need to cut as often in the cooler months as the grass will grow slower.

dethatching

How to Fix Your Lawns Levels

If scalping occurs from mowing over high spots in your lawn, you can add soil/sand to amend the lawn levels. This process is known as top dressing. When top dressing to improve levels, we recommend using sand. Something like washed plasterers’ sand or washed river sand is ideal.

When top dressing, it is best to give the lawn a low mow beforehand to ensure the top-dressing material will reach the soil profile. Best to also ensure at most 5-10 mm thickness is applied at one time. The sand should be rubbed in evenly using a lawn-leveller bar or the back of a rake to work the sand into the profile.

Check out our blog here for more information on applying a top dressing here.

top dress

Other Mowing Tips 

Now you are fully equipped to help stop scalping from occurring. We have a few final tips to ensure you will get the best cut when mowing.

  • Ensure your mower has sharp mower blades.
  • Mow when the lawn is dry, and try to avoid mowing when the lawn is wet.
  • Mow at the same length and keep it consistent.
  • Switch mowing directions.
  • Mow in the mornings or afternoons. Avoid mowing in the middle of the day.
  • Keep at a constant pace.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

A Complete Guide for Watering Lawns

Advice on watering lawns can differ substantially depending on who you ask, and more often than not, more water is used than is required.

How do you know if you are watering your new lawn enough?

Providing water to your new lawn is so important to ensure that it gets off to the best possible start. A new lawn that has been correctly watered will have deep roots, consistent colour and health. This will ensure that you create a lawn that is resilient, hardy and drought tolerant. Once established, in times of low to zero rainfall over an extended period, your lawn will survive to thrive again when it receives the moisture that it needs.

Watering New Lawns

Only freshly laid turf needs to be watered a couple of times a day, every day, for the first couple of weeks. Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established.

Important tips for new lawns:

  • Water a few times a day, every day for the first couple of weeks
  • Water in the mornings and throughout the day as required
  • Keep the ‘feet’ of the turf damp at all times to help the roots establish into the soil
  • Water the new turf evenly using a sprinkler or irrigation system

The key thing you are trying to achieve is moisture in the soil down to a depth of 150mm. This will ensure your roots establish into soil easily and it provides the moisture it needs as it goes. Keeping the ‘feet’ of your new turf wet is paramount. This will mean checking on your new turf a few times a day to make sure that the soil is still damp and hasn’t completely dried out. Reacting to this and adjusting the frequency of watering to coincide with the current weather conditions will help to give the lawn every possible chance of staying healthy and robust.

A common problem that we see is where new turf simply hasn’t been watered enough. The lawn stunts in growth and doesn’t establish its roots into the soil. From there it is an uphill battle to get it where you need it. Signs that your turf isn’t getting the water it needs include yellowing across the entire roll, curling or wilted leaves, no lateral growth or when lifted there are no visible white roots establishing into the soil.

How do I know if my new turf is getting enough water?

Ask yourself how much water is my lawn getting? If your answer is plenty or a lot, you probably need to delve a little deeper into the specifics. What are you using to water? When are you watering? For how long and at what time of day? Putting a few catch cups around the area when the irrigation is on will give you a good idea of how much water your new turf is receiving and how evenly.

If you notice consistent discolouration across the entire turf roll or slab, it is likely you are not watering enough. If the discolouration is limited to the edges where the turf was cut, this is considered normal. This part of the turf is more likely to dry out quicker and be in more stress from being cut. You can top dress the joins of your new turf to limit this. Ultimately as long as you provide the turf with enough water for it to stay green and hydrated, as the turf begins to grow laterally the dry edges will disappear and look a lot healthier.

Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering, depending on the weather and the climate in your region. Signs that your turf is establishing include turf becoming less easily lifted, colour across the turf remains green, vertical leaf growth is consistent and lateral growth is slowly reducing the visibility of the lines between each roll.

Perform spot checks after three weeks to determine if the turf can be lifted. If it can in certain areas and not others, chances are its roots are shallower in those areas; these spots will need to catch up with the assistance of additional deep watering during establishment.

Watering Established Lawns

Water is an important element in your lawn care and maintenance program. With a clever choice of lawn and the correct preparation you can keep watering to a minimum once your lawn is established.

Choose a drought tolerant turf variety

The easiest way to limit the amount you need to water your lawn, is to put in a drought tolerant turf variety in the first place.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda has recently received certification and is the first and only turfgrass to ever receive the Smart Approved WaterMark in Australia and across the world. In the US, TifTuf will now automatically be approved for the ‘Water Sense’ program. This means TifTuf is the first turf grass not just in Australia, but throughout the world, to receive recognition to this level of water saving efficiency.

Click here to learn more.

A common question we get asked here at Lawn Solutions Australia is, “how do I know if I am watering my lawn enough?” – The answer to this question can be quite different due to a variety of factors.

Some of these factors include:

  • The climate in your area and the season
  • Water restrictions
  • Access to and cost of water
  • Your soil type and its ability to absorb and hold water
  • Lawn variety and its drought tolerance
  • Environmental factors such as how much sun, shade, wind or heat there is in your garden and your area
  • The health of your lawn

Make sure your sprinkler can cover the lawn evenly, regardless of whether it’s a manual shift or automatic sprinkler system. Be sure that no areas hold water and they are all drained well.

When should I water my lawn?

The simple answer is – when your lawn needs it. It is important that you only irrigate when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. When you do water, do so within the rules outlined by local water restrictions.

If you water your lawn 3 times a week at 8am every single week regardless of the weather or moisture content of the soil, it’s very likely you are overwatering your lawn. This will lead to shallow roots and a lawn that has been taught to expect regular watering, so without it, it will turn its ‘toes’ and begin to struggle during even the shortest of periods without moisture.

Most common lawn types in Australia can survive extended periods of drought. They will lose colour, becoming brown and dry, with little to no leaf growth, but they will generally sit dormant until the next rain or irrigation event.

A common misconception is that a drought tolerant lawn won’t go brown. Drought tolerance relates to a turf varieties ability to recover after extended periods without irrigation. Some grasses will survive in extreme conditions with minimal water, but not look their best, while others will look better for longer, but can die without adequate water.

How do I know if my lawn needs watering? Just look for the tell-tale signs:

  • Leaf is wilting or losing colour.
  • If you walk across your lawn and leave a footprint behind, then your lawn is likely lacking in water. If it bounces back, your lawn should be well hydrated. This is known as the footprint test.
  • During hot weather, if it’s dry and crusty, taking on a brown colour, there’s a good chance it needs water.

The best time to water your lawn is early morning or late in the afternoon/early evening. This is when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat related evaporation. In humid areas, avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal diseases. Early morning is best.

By utilising these tips, you can ensure your freshly laid turf or fully established lawn have the ideal amount of moisture and all water consumption is limited to what is required and effective.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Which Lawn Trends Are Worth the Hype?

Which Lawn Trends Are Worth the Hype?

If you are in the lawn care community, you may have heard of different product types and wondered if they are all there are talked up to be. In this blog, we look at a few popular lawn care trends and assess if they are worth the hype surrounding them.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR’s)

Plant growth regulators will suppress your lawns vertical growth and increase the lawns lateral growth. This helps the grass to become denser while reducing the number of times you need to mow. This product is used throughout the warmer months when the grass is actively growing to help reduce mowing.

plant growth regulator

PGRs are only recommended for use in the warmer months and should be avoided in winter. As PGRs are more of a commercial-style product, you will need to calibrate your sprayer for application. Check out our blog here for more information on how to calibrate your sprayer.

If you struggle to keep up with regular mows in the warmer months or want to take your lawn to another level, PGRs are a great option. We recommend using PGR Primo Maxx.

primo maxx

Pre-emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides will stop stubborn weeds before they appear in your lawn. They work by creating a barrier at the soil level, stopping any new weed seedlings in their tracks. They are ideal for controlling seasonal weeds like Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crab Grass, and Creeping Oxalis. However, one thing to note – is that pre-emergents won’t treat weeds that are present in your lawn but will prevent further seasonal weeds from growing.

pre-emergent

Pre-emergents are perfect to use if you want to help prevent weed invasions in your lawn. We recommend using pre-emergent Oxafert.

oxafert

Battery Powered Fertiliser Spreaders

Battery-powered spreaders are another great popular lawn care trend. They will assist in spreading out granular lawn care products across your lawn, ensuring you have even product coverage. The advantage of battery-powered spreaders over manual handheld spreaders is that you don’t need to turn the handle to disperse the product, which may cause hand cramps over a larger area. When using a battery spreader, you will also be able to cover your area quicker than with a manual handheld spreader.

If you have a larger area size, battery spreaders like the Ryobi One+ fertiliser Spreader and the Ozito PXC 18V Fertiliser Spreader are ideal (batteries sold separately). However, a manual handheld spreader will still do an adequate job if you only have a small area.

Liquid Fertilisers

Liquid fertilisers can provide a quick boost of nutrients to your lawn. They do this as the leaves and roots of your grass absorb the fertiliser. However, when using liquid fertilisers you will need to apply them more frequently for results over a longer period.

Liquid fertilisers are ideal for lawns that are already in shape but are looking for a quick boost. For liquid fertilising, we recommend using Exceed Liquid Fertiliser.

exceed liquid fertiliser

If your lawn is in poor shape and you are wanting to help give the lawn a sustained boost over a longer period of time, we recommend using a granular fertiliser, like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser.

lawn fertiliser

Ozito Cylinder Mower

If you are following any lawn care pages, you have probably seen the hype around this mower. The steel cylinder blades can provide a clean and precise cut like the bigger, much more pricey cylinder mowers on the market. The Ozito mowers adjustable cutting height is between 14-38mm, cutting a bit higher than larger cylinder mowers. The Ozito Cylinder Mower is battery-powered. Please note you do need to buy the rechargeable battery separately. This battery is also compatible with many other Ozito home and garden tools.

For its price point, it is a great alternative from the bigger cylinder mowers. It can provide a much cleaner cut than other rotary mowers around the same price point. It is easy to use, manoeuvre, clean, and store. Although the roller attached can be a bit light, we have seen a few people adding a steel roller attachment allowing for better stripes.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

100 Million Metres of Sir Walter

100 Million Metres of Sir Walter Sold

Sir Walter Buffalo today is an iconic ‘Aussie’ brand and is undoubtedly the most successful turf variety in Australian history.

Did you know Sir Walter has reached a sales milestone in the Australian turf industry? Sir Walter has passed the 100 million metres sold mark, an achievement no other buffalo grass or grass has ever achieved! This makes it the greatest selling grass of all time.

To put this into perspective, if you laid this much Sir Walter in a line it would be able to cover the entire circumference of the moon almost 10 times over. Or in terms of Australia, it would be like driving all the way around Australia’s coastline almost 4 times. It’s a truly extraordinary amount of grass.

The Birth of Sir Walter

Brent Redman discovered the great “Sir Walter” in the NSW Hunter Valley in 1996. Brent grew buffalo grasses on his farm, but there were always particular issues that prevented them from achieving high quality. This was until Brent noticed a small area on his farm where an off type was growing. This off type maintained a greener winter colour, had a healthier root system and it was taking over the existing buffalo. Brent realised the potential of this new variety and began propagating the grass to protect the purity and integrity of the variety. From these first few square metres, the superstar that would become known as Sir Walter was born.

The rest is history as they say, with Sir Walter being expanded and produced right across Australia through a network of licensed turf suppliers.

Name Sir Walter

With Greatness Comes Great Responsibility

As a result of the success Sir Walter achieved, deception and substitution by competitors has occurred. Many varieties over the years have claimed to be ‘just like’, ‘same as’ or ‘bred from’ Sir Walter. None of which is true, which is why there needed to be a way to ensure the Sir Walter that consumers were buying was genuine.

To remedy this, Sir Walter supplied by accredited and licensed suppliers is now known as Sir Walter DNA Certified. This extension of the Sir Walter name was developed to provide the assurance to consumers that the Sir Walter they are buying is DNA tested and the genuine product. This turf matches the original breeder Sir Walter plant material bred at Brent Redmans farm developed over 20 years ago.

SirWalter-DNA_Original-Breeders

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

How to care for a new lawn

So, your new lawn is now installed, and you’re unsure what to do next? This blog covers a few simple steps on how to care for your new lawn.

Watering For a New Lawn

Ensuring your lawn has enough water, especially for the first few days after installation, is essential to help stop the grass roots from drying out.

For the first few days after receiving your lawn, you will need to irrigate more frequently. This is because the grass roots won’t have had the chance to grow into the soil. The duration and number of times you need to water will depend on a few factors, including temperatures, location, and rainfall.

As a general guide, you want to ensure your grass roots stay damp. If you are experiencing lots of rainfall in your area, you may not need additional irrigation. However, if your temperatures are hotter without rainfall, you may need to irrigate a few times a day.

For more information on watering your lawn, it is best to reach out to your local turf supplier. They will be familiar with the current weather conditions and local area.

Once the roots of your lawn have established into the soil, you can start reducing the number of times you need to irrigate. Once your lawn is fully established, you should only need to irrigate when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. Some tell-tale signs that your lawn needs water are:

  • Leaf is wilting or losing colour.
  • If you walk across your lawn and leave a footprint behind, then your lawn is likely lacking in water. If it bounces back, your lawn should be well hydrated. This is known as the footprint test.
  • During hot weather, if it’s looking dry.

Mowing Your Lawn For the First Time

Your new lawn should be ready for its first mow once the grass roots grow into the soil profile. To see if it is ready, try lifting the corner of a turf roll from the ground. It is ready to mow if you can’t lift the roll from the ground.

With your first mow, raise the mower’s height so only the top of the leaf blade is removed. Then, slowly bring the height back to your preferred mowing height over the next few mows.

Lawn Mowing ?ÛÒ Getting the Basics Right

Should I Fertilise My New Lawn

Once the lawn has been down for 6 – 8 weeks, it will be ready for its first fertiliser application. For fertilising a new lawn we recommend using a well-balanced fertiliser, like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This contains all the nutrients your lawn needs to thrive over the coming months and is safe to use on lawn types.

lawn fertiliser

If you want to apply products during the lawns first few weeks, you can use a soil conditioner like Lawn Kelper, this will help stimulate and strengthen roots and shoots.

lawn kelper

Can I Use Herbicides on a New Lawn?

If you notice weeds starting to grow in your new lawn, it is best to hold off from using herbicides till the lawn has fully established. However, most lawn weeds should be able to be removed by hand.

If we haven’t touched on any inquiries you have about caring for your new lawn, reach out to your local turf supplier, or get in contact with the Lawn Solutions Team.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Identifying Lawn Seed Heads

As each turf type has a different seed head, it can sometimes be difficult to know what a seed head is and what is a weed. In this blog, we look at what seed heads look like in different grass types, why they grow, and how to help stop them from growing.

They will usually only appear in lawns for a few weeks a year, usually when the temperatures are changing. Although they do have a tough feel underfoot, they won’t cause any damage to your lawn.

Buffalo 

Buffalo grass seed head

Buffalo seed heads will grow from the runner, also known as stolon. The seed head will be thicker with exposed seeds and will feel tough. They also have a very similar appearance to asparagus. They usually grow at the same height or just above your lawns leaf height.

Most buffalo seeds are sterile. This means that the grass cannot be spread by its seed.

Couch 

couch seed head

Couch seed heads too can be mistaken as weeds. They can be green to purple in colour and will grow on a stem above the grass level. At the top of the stem, there will be a cluster of spikes (usually two to six spikes) that hold the seeds. These spikes are around two to five cm long.

Most turf sold as a solid turf variety like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda and Nullarbor Couch will produce a sterile seed head that cannot spread.

Kikuyu

kikuyu seedhead

Kikuyu’s grows pollen sacs that extend above the grass leaf on white filaments, and are often mistaken as a web. These filaments will grow in a cluster of 2-4 flower spikelets. Kikuyu seeds are produced within the leaf sheath, and are not visible.

Zoysia

Zoysia seed head

Zoysia seed heads will either be white or purple in colour. They will feel ‘tough’ to touch and will come from one stem with small flowers that hold the seeds.

Why has my lawn gone to seed?

Seed heads start to grow for 2 main reasons.

The first being a change in seasons. Seasonal changes can cause a bit of stress on the lawn. In most varieties this will occur once or twice a year.

The second is that your lawn is lacking something. This will usually be water or nutrients

How to help stop seed heads

If your lawn has gone to seed, in most cases the grass will stop producing seeds over the coming weeks. The best way to help stop your lawn from going to seed is through regular mowing, watering, and fertilising.

When mowing, only remove one third of the leaf blade off at once to help reduce plant stress. In the warmer months, you may be required to mow at least once a week depending on your climate and turf variety. Watering your lawn less frequently for longer is best. For fertilising, a slow-release granular fertiliser that has a good ratio of NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser is ideal to help encourage strong growth for a healthy lawn.

lawn fertiliser

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A plant growth regulator (PGR) like Primo Maxx will limit your lawns vertical growth and can help reduce the number of seed heads that your lawn produces. Regular mowing, twice a week, and the use of a PGR at full rates will minimise the seed head from flowering.

pH test

If your lawns seed heads don’t go away after a few weeks after increasing watering, fertilising, regular mowing, and aerating, it is worth doing a soil pH test.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Your Lawn’s Spring Growth Surge

Get the right curve during spring growth surge

Has your lawn had a strong lift in its growth? This is your lawn’s spring growth surge.

Spring is the time when the flowers are blooming, and your gardens are beginning to sing. Your lawn responds to consistent higher temperatures in spring just like the flowers and plants in your garden.

What is spring growth surge?

Spring Surge Growth is created by warmer temperatures which assist the soil temperature to increase. With the addition of water and fertiliser, your lawn will break the winter dormancy and it will increase in leaf growth and root production.

It is important during this time that you maintain an even growth curve without over fertilising – excessive fertiliser causes excessive leaf growth and grass clippings which is obviously not preferable to achieving a low maintenance lawn.

The best lawn care pattern for spring involves the following:

  • Aerate the soil profile to assist with even water movement throughout the roots of your lawn. (This will be easier if there is some moisture in the soil, so shortly after rain is ideal)
  • Fertilise your lawn as per the label rates
  • Water in thoroughly

aerating

Most turf surfaces require one or two applications of fertiliser during the spring and summer period, but this will vary based on the amount of wear your lawn is subjected to during the growing months. For fertilising we recommend using a granular fertiliser like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This fertiliser has a well balanced ratio of nutrients your lawn needs to thrive.

lawn fertiliser

Mowing regularly

During this time it is also important to ensure you are mowing regularly to keep up with the growth surge. For mowing, we recommend mowing frequently enough so that only one third of the leaf blade is removed with each pass. Cutting this way will limit the amount of stress caused to the plant and help avoid scalping.

mowing height

This extreme growth surge that occurs during spring will only last for a few weeks, at which time growth rates will normalise.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR)

If your lawn is growing too fast to keep on top of, you can look at using a plant growth regulator like Primo Maxx to help slow down the growth of your lawn. This product works by suppressing the plants vertical growth and increases the plants lateral growth. This helps your lawn become denser while reducing the number of times you need to mow.

primo maxx

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

What’s the Best Grass Around Pavers and Concrete

Have you ever wondered what’s the best grass you should use around paving, concrete, and other surfaces? This blog looks at a range of options you can use in your outdoor space.

What’s the Best Grass Around Paving 

When using grasses around paving, we recommend choosing a grass type that won’t grow particularly tall and will grow thick around the paving. If you plan to have pavers across your lawn, we recommend going for a slower-growing grass like Sir Grange Zoysia or Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo.

Sir Grange Zoysia

Sir Grange Zoysia is a slower-growing boutique grass that looks great with little maintenance. This grass has a stunning fine leaf, with a beautiful dark green colour, and is slow growing. This grass can even be left unmown! The Sir Grange also doesn’t grow particularly long, so it works well in landscaped areas. This is a slower-growing grass. So, it won’t have as fast repairing nature as other warm-season grasses like couch and buffalo grass. So, it is best used in low traffic areas that will not be used by pets and kids, or where the paving will be walked on, instead of the lawn.

As this grass is a slow grower, it can take some time to establish. Sir Grange Zoysia also requires a bit of extra ground preparation work when installing. For more information on the installation and establishment of Sir Grange Zoysia, click here.

Sir Grange Zoysia

Moderate Traffic Areas Around Paving

If you are installing grass in an area with pavers or other surfaces like concrete that will receive more foot traffic or will be used by pets and kids, we recommend having a look at Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo.

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo grass has a higher wear tolerance and a faster repairing nature than Sir Grange Zoysia. Sir Walter has a soft broad leaf, high shade tolerance, and excellent with pets and kids. This grass is low maintenance, and well-suited to the Australian Climate.

High Wear Areas

For choosing a turf type in high-wear areas along a driveway or other surfaces, we recommend looking at TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda or Sir Walter DNA Certified.

For turfed areas along driveways and paths, look at using faster-growing grass. Although you will need to keep in mind the lawn may need its edges done from time to time. Edging along driveways and paths will be much easier to maintain as they are mostly straight. Please check out our blog on edging for more information here.

If you want your lawn to sit flush with a concrete surface, we recommend leaving about 30-40mm below the height of the other surface. This will allow for the thickness of the turf. Best to chat with your local turf supplier for exact measurements of how thick they are cutting their turf.

dog lawn

Ground Cover Alternatives

There is an excellent range of other ground covers that you can use around paving. These ground covers are a good option to look at using in smaller areas, like alongside of the house or on small pathways. When choosing plants, it is best to look for something that is low growing and can spread to prevent weeds from growing. A few options include Baby Tears, Dwarf Mondo Grass, Dichondra Silver Falls, and Blue Star Creeper.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

How do I make my grass grow thicker?

Feel like your grass grows quickly, but never really looks that great because it’s too sparse?

You might notice your neighbour’s lawn always looks thick and lush, but yours, even though it’s the same variety, just doesn’t quite look the same.

There are many factors that could be contributing to your lawn’s poor performance. The main culprits are shade, compaction or a pest related issue. Look as these potential issues first to rule these out as the problem. If you don’t, the underlying problem will continue to cause you headaches and you will never get the result you are looking for.

If you have ruled out shade, compaction and pests, it could simply boil down to a difference in mowing techniques. A few tweaks to the way you mow your lawn and the frequency can make all the difference.

How do I make my grass grow thicker?

Let’s start with mowing:

Regular mowing – Regular mowing promotes lateral growth. If you don’t let your lawn get too long, more sun can penetrate to encourage growth.

Mowing in different directions – If you mow in the same direction all the time, the grass tends to stay pointed in that direction. Going over your lawn in different directions will help the grass to grow straight up, leaving more room for blades to grow next to it.

Mowing short – If you mow short (not too short), your grass will learn to grow thicker with more lateral growth.  If you leave it too long, once again sun can’t penetrate as easily, and you end up with a patchy lawn, particularly when you end up cutting off more than a third of the leaf to bring the level back down.

In addition to mowing, it is important not to forget the overall health of your grass. The healthier your lawn is, the more likely it is to grow thicker and spread.

Key principles that are important to lawn health:

Fertilise – Most lawn fertilisers contain a balance of nutrients ideal for grass health. One of these nutrients is potassium. Potassium functions within the cell of the grass and provides strength to the whole plant. It helps with the internal processes, including photosynthesis, respiration and protein production creating thicker cell walls.

Water – When your lawn runs out of water and ability to draw moisture from the soil, it reaches its permanent wilting point (PWP). This is where your lawn will start to suffer, and wilt and growth will slow to an almost complete stop.

Dethatching – Excessive thatch in the turf profile makes it difficult for your lawn to take in nutrients, creates moisture loss and causes a barrier that makes it difficult for the living matter to thicken and spread.

Eliminating all weeds and invading turf species – It goes without saying really, but if there’s space in your lawn for more grass to grow, it’s likely there is space for weeds to appear as well. Hand weed what you can, spray with herbicides when required and allow your grass to spread into these areas instead.

Limit wear and unnecessary stress – Less stress will also ensure grass is in top health which will also improve density.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR’s) – You might have heard of a treatment that will reduce the frequency you need to mow your lawn. These chemicals were designed primarily to slow vertical plant growth to reduce clippings and mowing requirements in commercial situations like on sports fields or golf courses. Energy is then redirected to the roots and towards lateral growth. The end result is a grass that is more tightly knit, thicker, and more capable of handling stress.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Attracting Native Birds to Your Garden

Native birds are an important part of many ecosystems, pollinating plants, seed dispersal, and insect and rodent control. By attracting more native birds to your lawn, you will help keep your local ecosystem balanced. But how can you attract these native birds to your garden?

Birds native to each region

In different regions you can expect to see different types of native birds.

In Sydney, some native birds you can see outside the city include Nankeen kestrel, Superb fairy-wren, Rainbow lorikeet, Red wattlebird and more.

Native birds you can encounter in Melbourne include White-plumed honeyeater, Bell miner, Eastern rosella, and more.

For more information on what nativebirds you can find in your backyard, check out the Australian Museum page here.

Plant native plants around your lawn

Using a variety of native plants in your garden will help create a comfortable environment to attract native birds to your area. When planting to attract birds, we recommend using a variety of low lying and medium size shrubs and high trees. By using a variety of plants, you will provide more options for all bird sizes on your area.

Low growing plants will help attract many smaller native birds like Wrens and Finches and members of the Honeyeater family.

Medium shrubs provide a safe place for many smaller birds as they can provide a place to hide from danger.

If space allows high trees provide a high vantage point for birds allowing them to feel safe as they can see their surroundings and food sources.

Different native plant options include Grevilleas, Bottlebrush, Banksias and Gum Trees.

Some native plants are better suited to different regions of Australia, so it is best to chat with your local nursery to see which plants are suited to your region.

Bird baths and water features

Birds are attracted to areas with water. Bird baths as the name suggests provide a place to bathe and drink and socialise. Bird baths are best placed near surrounding trees and shrubs and placed off the ground. This will help them feel safer with their surroundings. It is also best to add a few rocks or sticks in the middle of the bird bath to help make it easier for smaller birds to use. Keep your bird bath clean with fresh water will help make it a more attractive place for birds to stop

Did you know that birds are also attracted to running water? The sound of moving water can attract birds to stop and drink, rest and bathe. If your budget allows, it can be a great feature for us to enjoy and the birds too!

Nesting boxes and nesting material

If you have large trees in your garden, you might want to try adding nesting boxes! These will provide a space for birds and other animals to live, rest and take refuge. You can buy nesting boxes from a local garden or hardware store or even build your own!

We also recommend leaving out nesting material like sticks, grass clippings and fallen leaves for birds to use.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.