Month: January 2022

12 Mowing Tips for the Perfect Cut Every Time

Posted on by Apex Digital

12 Mowing tips For the Perfect Cut Every Time

A few simple tips on mowing your lawn will go a long way to ensuring you get a nice even cut, without ripping, scalping or smothering the lawn each time you give the grass its regular haircut.

  1. Healthy mowing height for your lawn

Don’t mow your lawn too short, as this can put your lawn under extreme stress. It can leave brown or bare looking patches on your lawn, and if cut too short regularly, can seriously deplete the lawn’s energy reserves and is an open invitation for weeds to invade and seed. A good guide is the ‘one-third rule’ – only remove one-third of the leaf each time you mow.

mowing height

Guideline for ideal mowing heights

(General rule of thumb: shorter for summer, longer for winter)

Green couch:                                          5 to 30mm

Buffalo grass (Sir Walter):                    30 to 50mm

Kikuyu:                                                    30 to 50mm

Zoysia matrella (Sir Grange):               5 to unmown

Queensland blue couch:                       5 to 30mm

Broadleaf carpet grass:                         30 to 50mm

Hybrid Bermuda (TifTuf):                     5 to 30mm

Fescue:                                                     30 to 50mm

  1. Don’t let your clippings build-up

It is ok to leave your clippings on the lawn every now and again, as clippings are a great source of nitrogen and can act as a natural fertiliser for your lawn. Recycling your grass clippings back into your lawn can actually account for 25% of its annual nitrogen requirements.

If you are using a regular mower you should only be leaving small amounts of clippings every so often. If you have a mulching mower that cuts the clippings up much finer, then it is ok to leave the clippings on your lawn, so long as they aren’t left in clumps and they are evenly distributed.

You definitely need to take the type of grass you have into consideration when deciding whether to catch your clippings. If you have a couch lawn and are looking for a manicured finish, it’s always best to catch your clippings. If you have a buffalo or kikuyu lawn, you can generally follow the instructions provided above.

grass clippings

  1. Change up your mowing direction

Mowing in different directions not only minimises ‘mownotony’, it also contributes to a healthy lawn by encouraging the individual blades to grow straight, which in turn provides more space for new blades to grow. Ultimately, this gives you a thicker lawn.

  1. Avoid cross-contamination

If you have a different grass in one area, say front to back, wash or clean down your mower before transitioning to the other grass type. Some grasses like kikuyu for example can be easily transported into other varieties where they can quickly start to invade and spread. Ideally, you should try to install the same grass in all areas if you are looking to keep your grass variety clean.

  1. Keep a consistent pace

If you want a consistent cut, you need to stick to a consistent pace when mowing. If you race over one area and are much slower in another, the grass is likely going to be cut inconsistently with bouncing and movement creating differentiation in the height of cut.

  1. Keep your mower blades sharp

Keep your mower well maintained; sharp blades are crucial for a good cut. Blunt blades tend to tear, rather than cut the lawn.

  1. Cylinders or reels will provide a cleaner cut

Reel mowers, cylinder mowers, in particular, will have a better quality of cut due to the slicing ‘scissor’ action. This action is superior to that of the chopping action of a rotary mower, when comparing both with sharp well-maintained blades.

cylinder mower

Having said this, a rotary mower with sharp blades and decent power produces a good enough cut that most people would be happy with.

  1. Mow when the lawn is dry

Rain is great for fertilising, but not ideal for mowing. Mowing when the grass is wet can damage the leaf blades as they will tear rather than cut, leaving an uneven edge. This can give a ‘chopped’ look to your lawn. Wait until the lawn has dried out after rain or irrigation before you mow.

  1. Don’t mow during the heat of the day

When mowing, do so earlier in the day or as the sun has started to go down again. The hot sun in the middle of the day is more likely to do damage to the freshly cut lawn, so doing so when it is cooler will cause less stress to the leaf.

  1. Mow your lawn regularly

Avoid long periods between mows – regular mowing is best. Keep in mind that your mowing routine may also need to change with the seasons. Warm-season varieties like Kikuyu and Couch, for example, love hot summers and will have vigorous growth during this time. Regularly mowing your lawn promotes lateral growth and allows more of the sun’s rays to get amongst the leaf of your lawn.

  1. A bumpy lawn will be an uneven lawn

If you have lumps or depressions in your lawn it can be a good idea to top-dress your lawn. The active growing season is the best time. Information on topdressing can be found here. Levelling and topdressing will help to ensure a more even cut with less scalping.

  1. Consider mowing frequency when selecting a turf variety

Consider the amount you are willing to mow when choosing a turf variety. Some types of grass will require more frequent mowing than others. Mowing frequency will be an important aspect of maintaining a healthy lawn.

grass types

Anything we have missed?

Let us know what mowing tips you have found work best on your lawn.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

What Should I Top Dress My Lawn With?

Posted on by Apex Digital

What should I top dress my lawn with?

When looking to top-dress your lawn you first have to ask yourself what it is you are trying to achieve. In most cases, top dressing is undertaken to correct poor soil preparation, improve deteriorated soil quality or permeability, or fill in low spots and correct uneven areas in the lawn. If your lawn is well fertilised, healthy and even, then it’s likely you don’t need to worry about top dressing.

Top dressing brings many benefits to a lawn that is looking a little lacklustre, including helping to reduce the accumulation of dead grass clippings and stems, known as ‘thatch’. It helps to increase nutrient retention, improves drainage and increases disease and pest resistance.

Top dressing should only be completed during the growing season (this is when you need to mow your lawn weekly) and the earlier in the season the better. Generally, late spring to early summer is best.

Topdressing to Improve Levels

For a top-dressing material for level improvement, we always like to use washed plasterers’ sand. It doesn’t compact quite as hard as brickies sand. It is generally easier to screed and level due to the lower clay and silt content and reduces the likelihood of the surface crusting and becoming hydrophobic.

If you are wanting a really flat lawn surface and intend to mow your turf variety quite short, then straight sand is the go. Just be sure that within your broader lawn maintenance schedule that you include the addition of fertilisers and nutrients that your lawn needs. Lawns that are cut shorter will generally require additional inputs to help them perform at an optimum level.

Topdressing to Improve Soil Profile

Your lawn needs a firm base that allows water movement downwards and allows for water retention, so the turf roots system can develop and establish. The aim is to promote a healthy root system that will protect the turf from weather conditions such as droughts and winter frost.

A good soil base for most turf varieties should consist of the following:

  • Washed river sand, medium to coarse particles – some % of clay is present which helps to compact and form a base.
  • Some heavier soil is generally added which helps to hold moisture and mixed with the sand creates a free-flowing profile for water movement.
  • A composted material is then added – again generally this can be a green waste, chicken or animal manure and some natural nutrients to help balance your pH levels.

This is where topsoil or sandy loam topdressing soils are necessary. If your lawn is lacklustre, compacted and lacking in nutrients, then you are best looking at applying a sandy loam. This is recommended for most lawn situations. These top-dressing soils are much the same as the soil or turf underlay that is spread prior to laying turf. These usually consist of a blend of 80% washed sand, combined with 20% black soil or organic material. If you have sandy soil, a higher proportion of organic material is a good idea.

It is also recommended to aerate your lawn prior to spreading topsoil, specifically core aeration. Removing cores from your lawn will create a space for the new topsoil material to fall into, helping it get deeper into the soil base where it is needed.

How to Lay Turf – Preparation and Underlay

How to Top Dress

Topdressing should only be applied at no more than 5-10mm in thickness at a time. The sand or sandy loam should be rubbed in evenly using a lawn level bar, working the sand down into the turf thatch layer.

Preparing your turf for topdressing – if possible, apply a general-purpose fertiliser, wetting agent and water in well a couple of days prior. This will give your turf the growth required to surge through the topdressing sand.

For more information on top dressing click here.

Need fertiliser and wetting agents to assist your lawn in recovery?

lawn fertiliser

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Why Regular Mowing Is Important

Posted on by Apex Digital

Why regular mowing is important

Sometimes there’s always something better to do than spend a portion of your weekend mowing the lawn.

There are those that are die-hard lawn fanatics who love mowing regularly and those that just simply find the thought of having to mow the lawn all the time as a massive annoyance.

If conditions have been ideal, you might be cursing the dreaded growth rate of your lawn. During times of rain, combined with high humidity, you might also find that you have been unable to get out and mow for weeks, even if you wanted to.

mowing

If your lawn is growing rapidly, it is important that you get out there and get on top of it regularly. Just remember it’s only a short amount of time before it will slow down and you can get back to the odd mow here and there when it needs it.

 

Here’s why you should keep to a regular routine and mow your lawn when it needs it.

  1. Consistent mowing heights allow for consistent nutrients within the grass, helping your lawn look the same throughout.
  2. Leaving your lawn too long can block out the sun from reaching the undergrowth and can lead to dying off from below.
  3. Letting your lawn get too long actually ends up causing you to mow your lawn more often! When you do finally mow, you are taking off more of the leaf which will stress your lawn. Once the lawn gets quite long, don’t take more than a third of the leaf off at a time. You have to mow off a third, wait a few days and then mow again to get it back to the optimal height. So, sticking to the one-third rule is extremely important in maintaining a healthy lawn.
  4. The mower may have difficulty cutting down the tall grass even with an increased blade height, so it will be a much more difficult task.
  5. A lawn that isn’t mowed regularly to the recommended height is often less healthy than a manicured lawn.
  6. A lawn full of weak grass is more susceptible to disease, pests and weeds.
  7. Mowing your lawn encourages lateral growth. It’s this lateral growth that helps your lawn become thicker.

By sticking to a regular mowing and lawn maintenance routine, your lawn will be healthier and be less likely to develop problems that will only cost you more time and money in the long run.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

What Are Plant Growth Regulators?

Posted on by Apex Digital

Stadium quality turf with PGR’s

We know many of you are always looking for ways to take your lawns to the next level. One way to do this is by using what the turf professionals use, Plant Growth Regulators. Used on golf courses and sports grounds across the world, Plant Growth Regulators known as PGRs, are now available in an economical size to use in your own back garden.

In this article we focus on the benefits of plant growth regulators, Primo Maxx by Syngenta specifically, that can help your lawn perform like stadium-quality turf.

What is a Plant Growth Regulator or PGR?

A PGR is an innovative solution that influences a plant’s growth and development.

Recent types of PGRs, such as Syngenta’s turf growth regulator Primo Maxx are formulated as a microemulsion concentrate that quickly enters the leaves and shoots before systemically moving throughout the entire plant.

Better looking lawns, faster:

  • Reduces grass growth: reduced mowing.
  • Less bare patches: improved aesthetic.
  • Greener grass.
  • The best-looking edges with less work.

Once absorbed, the active ingredient works to temporarily block the plant’s ability to produce a growth hormone called Gibberellic Acid. This suppresses the plant’s vertical growth while allowing normal processes like photosynthesis and respiration to continue.

Energy is diverted into the plant’s lateral growth, resulting in smaller and finer leaves, increased tillering, and a larger, deeper root mass. The turf becomes denser with a more vibrant colour.

Save water with PGRs

Regular PGR application ticks a lot of sustainability boxes, the biggest one being greener grass with less water requirements.

PGRs like Primo Maxx improve water management efficiency by encouraging the stomates (pores) of a plant to close for longer periods, which slows down the rate of water lost through transpiration.

Control growth and mow less

Slowing down turf growth also decreases the need to mow, which in turn reduces waste and makes maintenance practices far more sustainable. Applying Primo Maxx to turfgrass effectively holds back vertical grass growth within 3 to 4 weeks of initial application.

Stand up to turf stress and extreme heat

Increased temperatures add to turf stress in all situations, resulting in an undesirable loss of colour, turf density and quality.

Build a tougher lawn:

  • Increased root density: drought resistance & improved lawn resilience
  • Increased density: improved shade tolerance
  • Increased durability: hardier under children and pet use

The main reason is that PGR applications like Primo Maxx increase the level of bioactive cytokinins in the plant, improving its tolerance to heat and drought-induced stress. This allows the turf to recover faster from drought effects, extreme heat, or stress from high traffic and heavy play.

PGR TIP:

The right application is always key to achieving good results with a PGR, so it’s important to track the growth rate of your turfgrass alongside the rate of PGR application. When using Primo Maxx for the first time leave an area to the side untreated so you can compare the results of your application.

What does Primo Maxx do?

Primo Maxx forces the grass to grow thicker instead of taller. The lateral stems become fuller as the colour of the lawn becomes a nicer shade of green. Your lawn will not only be lush and attractive, but it will also have what it needs to stay that way.

plant growth regulators

Primo Maxx Promotes deeper, stronger roots

Instead of using energy on growth, it uses it on creating healthier roots

Primo Maxx Improves water use efficiency

The grass makes the most of the water it receives, whether rain or irrigation, less water use

Primo Maxx helps turf tolerate shade

Shady areas naturally grow thin; Primo assist with this.

Primo Maxx creates stronger, denser turf

Stronger, denser turf resists wear and disease better and helps suppress weeds.

  • Promotes denser, healthier turf that is better able to withstand a variety of stresses including heat, drought, diseases and traffic.
  • Slows the production of gibberellic acid, a plant hormone that promotes cell elongation. Vertical shoot growth is slowed, while lateral and below-ground growth of rhizomes, stolons, tillers and roots is stimulated.
  • Reduces mowing by up to 50%.
  • Is claimed to suppress Winter grass growth.
  • Cuts mowing in half, reduces seed head production, fertilizer use, watering and clipping yield, makes lawns look great with half the work or for less than 3 cents a square metre.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Summer Grass Weeds

Posted on by Apex Digital

Summer Grass Weeds

Not all weeds can be easily treated with common broadleaf herbicides. Some, mainly summer grass weeds, require a specific herbicide product for treatment.

In this article, we talk about summer grass, paspalum and crabgrass/crowsfoot.

Summer Grass

Digitaria Sanguinalis and Digitaria Cilaris

summer grass

Summer grass is an annual weed that appears in the warmer months of the year. It will then go to seed into autumn where it can emerge over several years. There are two varieties of Summer grass that are very similar in appearance. If left untreated, it can grow as high as 30cm and 1m wide, thrive in conditions of high temperatures and high humidity.

Description

Summer grass is an annual weed that has soft hairy leaves that grow close to the ground in clusters. The grassroots at the node (joint) and the sheathes of the leaf are usually purple-tinged in colour at the base. Because Summer grass spreads by seed, it is extremely important that you act before this happens.

Paspalum

Paspalum Dilatatum

This is a perennial grass weed that is found mostly in the South Eastern states of Australia.

It will start out as clumps and then will spread throughout sparse and poor performing lawns.

Description

This weed has a purple tinge at the base of broad grass leaves that stem from a central crown. It primarily grows throughout the warmer months from late spring to early autumn. This weed spreads through the transportation of sticky seeds. These seeds easily adhere themselves to pets, shoes and objects before falling off in a new location.

Crowsfoot or Crabgrass

Eleusine Indica or Digitaria (Finger-grasses)

crowsfoot

Crowsfoot is known by many names, but one it sometimes goes by here in Australia is Crabgrass.

Description 

Crowsfoot grass is a summer annual that grows in easy to identify tufts, staying fairly flat to the ground with almost white flat sheathed stems and smooth strap-like leaves.

This weed is difficult to control as can tolerate low mowing and will thrive in nutrient-deprived and compacted soil conditions. It will begin to germinate in the soil when temperatures reach above 15°C and can grow extremely quickly once active.

Seed heads appear usually from late spring or early summer. These seed heads can have as many as ten spikelets on each long stem. In an unhealthy lawn, if left to seed and spread, Crowsfoot will quickly infiltrate right through the entire lawn. Crowsfoot is commonly found throughout most Australian states including Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia and the Northern Territory.

Prevention

The best way to control these types of weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn where they are unlikely to infiltrate and spread. Being proactive and removing them as soon as they appear and before they go to seed will be the key to preventing them from spreading out of control. It is always easier to control weeds from the outset rather than to try to remove them once they get out of hand.

By choosing a suitable lawn species for your area, keeping it healthy and well maintained and at the right mowing height for your chosen variety, you’ll have a leg up on any potential weed invasions.

Treatment

Hand removal

All of the above grass weeds can be removed by hand, but they will continue to re-emerge in sparse unhealthy lawn areas. Getting your grass to spread and thicken will make it difficult for these weeds to infiltrate. Make sure you dig underneath the crown, below soil level and remove the entire root of the plant. Be careful not to spread any seeds during the process. If you act quickly you should be able to eradicate them fairly easily from your lawn this way.

Post-Emergent Herbicides

If these grass weeds have spread throughout your lawn and are out of control, you may need to look at applying a selective herbicide.

Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer and herbicides formulated with the active DSMA will control paspalum, crowsfoot/crabgrass and summer grass.

These herbicides can be easily mixed in a pressure sprayer, with the addition of a surfactant or wetting agent like Sprayfix or a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to ensure it adheres better to the leaf. For best results, spray the weeds when they are actively growing during the warmer months. Repeated applications may be required in order to fully eradicate them from your lawn. Make sure you adhere to the application rates and instructions on the product label.

*For kikuyu, buffalo lawns and QLD Blue Couch, it is advised to only spot spray and not spray the entire lawn as it can cause harm to your grass as well.

Due to a supply shortage of DSMA across the industry, many garden centres and stores have no longer been able to get stock of these herbicides.

Another option is to treat the individual weed tufts with a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (Round Up or Zero). You will need to make sure you do so extremely carefully as it will kill everything it comes in contact with. The safest way is to use a small paintbrush or weed wand and carefully brush the glyphosate only onto the invading weeds leaf.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

A really effective way of stopping Crowsfoot/Crabgrass and Summer Grass from germinating in your lawn again next year is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert.

oxafert

These herbicides act by stopping weeds from germinating from the soil in the first place. In order for them to work effectively, you need to apply them before emergence. For many of these weeds, this would mean you would be best applying it in early to mid-spring, but they can be applied at any time.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

How to Calibrate Your Sprayer

Posted on by Apex Digital

When using specialised lawn care products on your lawn, calibrating your sprayer is important to ensure the correct amount of product is applied to your lawn size. In this blog, we look at how to calibrate your sprayer and how to apply a few different commercial grade lawn care products.

Important Note Before Reading:

When applying each of these products, please ensure you are wearing the correct PPE for each product, as stated on the product label.

When using these types of products, always read the label before application.

Different types of sprayers

There is a wide range of different types of sprayers that are on the market. Backpack sprayers are better suited for larger areas as they usually hold a larger amount of water and can be easier to use when spraying for longer. Other handheld sprayers vary in size and design are better suited for medium to small lawn sizes.

As every different type of sprayer and brand of sprayer will disperse water at different rates calibrating your sprayer is important, especially when applying commercial-grade products.

backpack sprayer

Why is calibrating your chemical sprayer important?

When applying products to your lawn it is important to ensure you are applying the correct amount of product for your lawn size. This will help avoid either not spraying enough or too much product to your lawn.

How to calibrate your sprayer

To calibrate your sprayer, you will need to find out how much water your sprayer takes to spray 100 m2 and add the label rate of the product to that quantity of water.

To find out how much water your sprayer takes to spray 100m2, best to spray a 10m2 hard surface like concrete and multiply it by 10. From this you can determine that if it’s going to take say 5L of water for you to cover 100sqm, then that’s the required amount of water you need to mix the product with.

When calibrating your sprayer, it is also important to walk at the same speed as this will also affect your calibration.

Best to check your sprayer’s nozzle regularly for any blockages and wear and tear as this can also affect your sprayer.

Applying Primo Maxx (Plant Growth Regulator)

When applying Primo Maxx, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

For Buffalo, Common Couch and Hybrid Couch add 10 to 40mL of Primo Maxx per 100m2. For Kikuyu add 20 to 80mL of Primo Maxx per 100m2.

Please have a look at the Primo Maxx Label for further information.

primo maxx

Applying Monument Liquid Herbicide

When applying Monument Liquid Herbicide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

The application rates do change for Monument depending on what weed you are wanting to target. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rates for the weed you are targeting. The below details how you can convert mL/ha to mL/100m2.

150 mL/ha (for Nutgrass and Mullumbimby Couch only)

Therefore, 150 mL per 10 000 m2

Therefore, 1.5 mL per 100 m2

Then add 1.5mL of Monument (for Nutgrass and Mullumbimby Couch only) to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.

Please have a look at the Monument Liquid Herbicide Label for further information.

monument herbicide

Applying Heritage Maxx Systemic Fungicide

When applying Heritage Maxx, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

For Heritage Maxx, the label rate is:

6L/ha

Therefore, 6L per 10 000 m2

Therefore, 60 mL per 100 m2

Then add 60mL of Heritage Maxx to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.

Please have a look at the Heritage Maxx Label for further information.

heritage maxx

Applying Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide

When applying Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

The application rates do change for Duke depending on what weed you are wanting to target. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rates for the weed you are targeting. The below details how you can convert g/ha to g/100 m2.

150g/ha (for Winter Grass and Ryegrass only)

Therefore, 150g per 10 000 m2

Therefore, 1.5g per 100 m2

It is best to mix the herbicide with a small amount of water first to ensure the product is properly dissolved and then add to your sprayer.

Then add 1.5g of Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100 m2.

Please have a look at the Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide Label for further information.

Applying Agador Insecticide

When applying Agador Insecticide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

The application rate for Agador does change for the pest which you were wanting to target.

For Couch Mites use 10 to 20 mL per 100m2. For Ring Nematode and Sting Nematode use 20mL per 100m2.

Please have a look at the Agador Label for further information.

agador

Have a ColourGuard RTU and want to use it in a knapsack?

If you have a ColourGuard hose on bottle and are wanting to apply it through a sprayer, use half the 2L bottle of ColourGuard and apply with 3.5L of water. This will then be able to cover up to 100m2.

When applying each of these products, please ensure you are wearing the correct PPE for each product, as stated on the product label.

When using these types of products, always read the label before application.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Crowsfoot (Eleusine Indica)

Posted on by Apex Digital

Crowsfoot (Eleusine Indica)

Crowsfoot is known by many names, but one of the most common it goes by here in Australia is Crabgrass.

Crowsfoot, as its name suggests, has a spiked flower with a similar appearance to that of a crow’s foot.

Description:

Crowsfoot grass is a summer annual that grows in easy to identify tufts. It stays fairly flat to the ground with almost white flat sheathed stems and smooth strap-like leaves.

Crowsfoot grass is difficult to control weeds that can tolerate low mowing and will thrive in nutrient-deprived and compacted soil conditions. It will begin to germinate in the soil when temperatures reach above 15°C and can grow extremely quickly once active.

Seed heads appear usually from late spring or early summer. These seed heads can have as many as ten spikelets on each long stem. In an unhealthy lawn, if left to seed and spread, Crowsfoot will quickly infiltrate right through the entire lawn. Crowsfoot is commonly found throughout most Australian states including Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia and the Northern Territory.

crowsfoot

How to remove crowsfoot

The best way to remove crowsfoot is to chip out by hand. Make sure when doing so that you carefully remove the entire plant and don’t spread any seeds during the process.

Treating Crowsfoot with a selective herbicide can be difficult as many herbicides will kill your lawn variety as well.

Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer and herbicides formulated with the active DSMA will control crowsfoot. It can be easily mixed in a pressure sprayer, with the addition of a surfactant or wetting agent to ensure it adheres better to the leaf. For best results, spray the crowsfoot when it is actively growing during the warmer months. Repeated applications may be required in order to fully eradicate it from your lawn. Make sure you adhere to the application rates on the side of the product.

*For kikuyu, buffalo lawns and QLD Blue Couch, it is best to only spot spray the crowsfoot and not the entire lawn as it can cause harm to your grass as well.

Due to a supply shortage of DSMA across the industry, many garden centres and stores have no longer been able to get stock of these herbicides.

Another option is to treat the individual weed tufts with a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (Round Up or Zero). You will need to make sure you do so extremely carefully as it will kill everything it comes in contact with. The safest way is to use a small paintbrush or weed wand and carefully brush the glyphosate only onto the crowsfoot leaf.

How to prevent crowsfoot

The best way to control Crowsfoot is to maintain a healthy lawn where it is unlikely to infiltrate and spread. Being proactive and removing it as soon as it appears and before it goes to seed will be the key to preventing it from spreading out of control.

Another way of preventing the seed from germinating is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert in early spring. An application in Autumn will also help to prevent the germination of winter weeds as well.

oxafert

 

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.