Month: October 2022

Have you ever wondered what’s the best grass you should use around paving, concrete, and other surfaces? This blog looks at a range of options you can use in your outdoor space.

What’s the Best Grass Around Paving 

When using grasses around paving, we recommend choosing a grass type that won’t grow particularly tall and will grow thick around the paving. If you plan to have pavers across your lawn, we recommend going for a slower-growing grass like Sir Grange Zoysia or Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo.

Sir Grange Zoysia

Sir Grange Zoysia is a slower-growing boutique grass that looks great with little maintenance. This grass has a stunning fine leaf, with a beautiful dark green colour, and is slow growing. This grass can even be left unmown! The Sir Grange also doesn’t grow particularly long, so it works well in landscaped areas. This is a slower-growing grass. So, it won’t have as fast repairing nature as other warm-season grasses like couch and buffalo grass. So, it is best used in low traffic areas that will not be used by pets and kids, or where the paving will be walked on, instead of the lawn.

As this grass is a slow grower, it can take some time to establish. Sir Grange Zoysia also requires a bit of extra ground preparation work when installing. For more information on the installation and establishment of Sir Grange Zoysia, click here.

Moderate Traffic Areas Around Paving

If you are installing grass in an area with pavers or other surfaces like concrete that will receive more foot traffic or will be used by pets and kids, we recommend having a look at Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo.

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo grass has a higher wear tolerance and a faster repairing nature than Sir Grange Zoysia. Sir Walter has a soft broad leaf, high shade tolerance, and excellent with pets and kids. This grass is low maintenance, and well-suited to the Australian Climate.

High Wear Areas

For choosing a turf type in high-wear areas along a driveway or other surfaces, we recommend looking at TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda or Sir Walter DNA Certified.

For turfed areas along driveways and paths, look at using faster-growing grass. Although you will need to keep in mind the lawn may need its edges done from time to time. Edging along driveways and paths will be much easier to maintain as they are mostly straight. Please check out our blog on edging for more information here.

If you want your lawn to sit flush with a concrete surface, we recommend leaving about 30-40mm below the height of the other surface. This will allow for the thickness of the turf. Best to chat with your local turf supplier for exact measurements of how thick they are cutting their turf.

Ground Cover Alternatives

There is an excellent range of other ground covers that you can use around paving. These ground covers are a good option to look at using in smaller areas, like alongside of the house or on small pathways. When choosing plants, it is best to look for something that is low growing and can spread to prevent weeds from growing. A few options include Baby Tears, Dwarf Mondo Grass, Dichondra Silver Falls, and Blue Star Creeper.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

If you mow your lawn correctly and frequently, you should manage to avoid the invasion of most weeds. But if you have found that some of these undesirable weeds have infiltrated your lawn, then there is a few methods for weed removal.

Weed Removal Options

Hand Removal

Many small weeds can be carefully pulled out by hand; however, you will need to make sure you have removed the roots. Using a weeding trowel or long handled mechanical device and prizing around the roots will help ensure total removal. The bigger the weed, the bigger and stronger the roots.

To make this job a little easier, you might want to try something like the Wolf Garten Ergo Weeder. It is very easy to use and saves you from bending down. It quick and easily digs down underneath the weed and when extracted removes the entire weed, roots and all.

Herbicide Treatment Options

There are various herbicides available, including selective and non-selective types.

Non-selective products like Round Up (Glyphosate) kill most plants including your lawn; selective herbicides target specific weeds only.

It is strongly recommended that you consult your local nursery or turf expert to properly identify the weed in question first, so you can treat it with an appropriate and effective spray.

Post-emergent Broadleaf Herbicides

For common broadleaf weeds like cudweed, clover, bindii or creeping oxalis, you can use a broadleaf herbicide like Amgrow Bin die or Lawn Solutions All Purpose Weed Control. These products generally contain actives like Bromoxynil, MCPA and Dicamba. For buffalo lawns, except ST varieties, make sure you use the Bromoxynil based products like Lawn Solutions All Purpose Weed Control as Dicamba can harm your buffalo grass.

Some other weeds require a particular herbicide for treatment, so identification is very important.

Quick selective weed killer solutions guide

• Winter Grass – Amgrow Winter Grass Killer (Not safe on Kikuyu or Fescue)
• Nutgrass / Mullumbimby Couch – Lawn Solutions Sedge Control
• Paspalum, Crabgrass, Summer grass – Paspalum herbicides contain the active DSMA. Make sure it’s safe to use on your turf as many varieties like buffalo and kikuyu are spot treatment only.

Prevention – Pre-emergent Herbicides

There is also a way to prevent some weed types from appearing at all.

A pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert targets weed seeds before they take hold by forming a barrier at soil level that stops the germination of any new seedlings. Pre-emergents can be used in the prevention of Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crowsfoot and Crab Grass.

Organic options

If your preference is to avoid the use of herbicides on your lawn, then there are some organic weed treatments which may work against particular weeds.

Some of these options include boiling water, salt, vinegar, cornmeal gluten and nonanoic acid – but keep in mind that these will almost always be non-selective and will harm your lawn as well, so spot treating is the way to go. Read more here.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Feel like your grass grows quickly, but never really looks that great because it’s too sparse?

You might notice your neighbour’s lawn always looks thick and lush, but yours, even though it’s the same variety, just doesn’t quite look the same.

There are many factors that could be contributing to your lawn’s poor performance. The main culprits are shade, compaction or a pest related issue. Look as these potential issues first to rule these out as the problem. If you don’t, the underlying problem will continue to cause you headaches and you will never get the result you are looking for.

If you have ruled out shade, compaction and pests, it could simply boil down to a difference in mowing techniques. A few tweaks to the way you mow your lawn and the frequency can make all the difference.

How do I make my grass grow thicker?

Let’s start with mowing:

Regular mowing – Regular mowing promotes lateral growth. If you don’t let your lawn get too long, more sun can penetrate to encourage growth.

Mowing in different directions – If you mow in the same direction all the time, the grass tends to stay pointed in that direction. Going over your lawn in different directions will help the grass to grow straight up, leaving more room for blades to grow next to it.

Mowing short – If you mow short (not too short), your grass will learn to grow thicker with more lateral growth.  If you leave it too long, once again sun can’t penetrate as easily, and you end up with a patchy lawn, particularly when you end up cutting off more than a third of the leaf to bring the level back down.

In addition to mowing, it is important not to forget the overall health of your grass. The healthier your lawn is, the more likely it is to grow thicker and spread.

Key principles that are important to lawn health:

Fertilise – Most lawn fertilisers contain a balance of nutrients ideal for grass health. One of these nutrients is potassium. Potassium functions within the cell of the grass and provides strength to the whole plant. It helps with the internal processes, including photosynthesis, respiration and protein production creating thicker cell walls.

Water – When your lawn runs out of water and ability to draw moisture from the soil, it reaches its permanent wilting point (PWP). This is where your lawn will start to suffer, and wilt and growth will slow to an almost complete stop.

Dethatching – Excessive thatch in the turf profile makes it difficult for your lawn to take in nutrients, creates moisture loss and causes a barrier that makes it difficult for the living matter to thicken and spread.

Eliminating all weeds and invading turf species – It goes without saying really, but if there’s space in your lawn for more grass to grow, it’s likely there is space for weeds to appear as well. Hand weed what you can, spray with herbicides when required and allow your grass to spread into these areas instead.

Limit wear and unnecessary stress – Less stress will also ensure grass is in top health which will also improve density.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR’s) – You might have heard of a treatment that will reduce the frequency you need to mow your lawn. These chemicals were designed primarily to slow vertical plant growth to reduce clippings and mowing requirements in commercial situations like on sports fields or golf courses. Energy is then redirected to the roots and towards lateral growth. The end result is a grass that is more tightly knit, thicker, and more capable of handling stress.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Does your lawn have weeds, but you’re not sure what they are and how to remove them? We take a look at some common lawn weeds that might be growing in your lawn and look at a few different options on how you can remove them.

Cudweed

Amochaeta galviceps

• Flat, shiny, mid-green leaves with a rosette shape
• Various small flowers on stems
• Fibrous roots
• Control – hand removal and spot spray herbicide
• Difficult to kill due to glossy leaves
• May need two or more sprays.

Winter Grass

Poa annua

• Is a low growing weed
• Has soft, drooping green leaves
• Grows in tufts with white seeds
• Will start to appear in mid to late Autumn
• Can stick around late winter or early Spring till the temperatures warm back up
• Control – hand removal, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.

Bindii (jo-jo)

Soliva sessilis

• Possibly the most annoying lawn weed due to the pain caused by the seeds to bare feet
• Finely dissected, small, fern like leaves, light green in colour
• Flat, small compact rosettes
• Small green flowers deep in leaf axis
• Fine, fibrous roots
• Small brown, flat seeds with sharp spines that hurt bare feet
• Control – hand removal or selective Bindii herbicides in winter or early autumn before the plant sets seed
• Easily managed if tended to early.

Creeping Oxalis

Oxalis corniculata

• Small, light green, clover like leaves on short petioles
• Small, yellow, bell shaped flowers
• Forms new roots wherever stems touch the ground, creeping under and through lawn
• Thin tap-roots
• Very difficult to remove as crown breaks off leaving roots for re-growth
• Very invasive, nasty weed
• Control – hand remove small plants
• Dig out section of lawn
• Herbicide for larger infestations.

Clover

Trifolium spp.

• Clover shaped, green leaves with with circular markings, on thin stems
• Small white flowers, ball shaped on stems with leaves
• Tap-roots off stolons
• Is a weed in lawn but in other areas can be beneficial due to high nutritional value
• Four leaved plants are very lucky, so don’t poison those!
• Control – hand removal and selective herbicide.

Lawn Weed Treatment

Hand removal

Many small weeds many be carefully pulled out by hand, however you will need to make sure you have removed the roots. Using a weeding trowel or long handled, mechanical device and prizing around the roots will help ensure total removal. The bigger the weed, the bigger and stronger the roots. In some cases, a weed spray might be necessary.

Herbicides

For Cudweed, Bindii, Creeping Oxalis and Clover, you can use a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control or Amgrow Bin Die. These herbicides are both safe to use on Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo, TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda, Sir Grange Zoysia, Eureka Kikuyu, and most other lawn types.

For Winter Grass, we recommend using a selective herbicide like Amgrow Winter Grass Killer (not suitable for Kikuyu, Rye, and Fescue lawns). This will remove any Winter Grass that is currently growing. We also recommend using a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert when the temperatures get cooler in your area to help prevent the winter grass from returning.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Your grass needs space below ground to take in air, nutrients, and water. Your lawns’ roots need to ‘breathe’.

Ultimately, aerating your lawn and allowing it to breathe benefits you. A healthy lawn can drop the temperature of your home’s surroundings, saving energy costs. But, aerating also helps to protect your lawn against a lot of common problems due to compaction: drainage issues, bare patches, weeds, dryness, fungal disease, fairy ring …

What is aeration?

Perforation of the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots.

 

Why do I need to aerate my lawn?

Aeration helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction. Soil compaction limits the amount of nutrients and water to penetrate the roots of your lawn.

How do I aerate my lawn? 

A smaller area of lawn can be aerated manually with aerating sandals (sandals with spikes that aerate the lawn as you walk) or a sturdy garden fork. Simply insert the fork into the lawn and wriggle it back and forth to fracture the soil profile. Aim for a spacing between the holes of around 8 – 10cm. In order to achieve adequate aeration, you may need to go over the area twice in a different direction each time.

You can hire specialised aerators if you have a large lawn. A spiked roller is also useful for lawn aeration for incorporating lime, gypsum, or coarse sand into the profile to improve drainage or pH.

Unlike regular aeration, where solid tines simply punch holes in the ground, core aeration removes a plug of soil from your lawn at the same time. You can read more about core aeration here.

How often should I aerate my lawn? 

Different soil types require more frequent aeration. Clay soil compacts easily and should be aerated at least once a year. You can aerate a sandy lawn once a year, or once every two years. In harsher climates, aerating twice a year will encourage turf growth and health.

In areas where there is a high amount of foot traffic, pets or even cars on the lawn, compaction is a common problem. Regular aerating will be important to ensure the ground doesn’t become too hard and help the soil to breathe and the grass to spread.

When should I aerate?

The best time to aerate warm season grasses, such as soft-leaf buffalo, couch, kikuyu and zoysia is during spring and summer while they are actively growing. You can aerate at any time of the year, but if you do so in the cooler months just keep in mind the grass won’t cover over the aerated holes as it is dormant. Always try to aerate at the same time you are fertilising or performing any other major lawn care operation such as dethatching and top dressing. It is also a fantastic time for aeration after rainfall, as it will make this process much easier.

For cool season lawns, such as fescue and rye grass, the same principle applies. With proper care and a lot of water, cool season lawns can grow all year (with the exception of very cold climates) so you can aerate all year round. Again, keep in mind the absolute best times are when you fertilise or perform any other lawn care and following rainfall, so soil moisture levels are high.

Aerating is often overlooked, but its importance in allowing air, water and nutrients to get into the soil cannot be overstated.

After aerating in spring is a perfect time to fertilise your lawn.

Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser

Test your pH 

After aerating, it is a good time to test your pH and take action if required. pH affects your lawns ability to absorb the minerals and nutrients needed, in order to thrive. A pH that’s less than ideal can mean your lawn isn’t absorbing the minerals and nutrients it needs.

The ideal pH range for your lawn is somewhere between 6 and 7. You can purchase a pH testing kit here at the Lawn Care Store.

If your pH is not where you need it, now is also the time to apply soil additives and conditioners to improve your soil type. A few additives and conditioners are listed below. For the best advice talk to your local Lawn Solutions Centre or closest Lawn Solutions Australia Turf Grower for specialised knowledge.

Tips to improve your soil type:

• Lime (calcium carbonate) helps raise pH and neutralise acidic soil.
• Gypsum is calcium sulfate dihydrate and helps break down clay soils.
• Fertiliser – Because aerating allows nutrients to better penetrate, straight after aerating is a perfect time to fertilise your lawn as well.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.