How to Repair Bare Patches in Your Lawn

You pride yourself in a beautiful lawn and for the most part, you have it looking great. But there a few hideous bare patches preventing your lawn from looking it’s best.

Bare patches can occur due to excess compaction in certain areas of your lawn. You will usually find these bare patches on worn paths in the backyard, in a path to the pool, back shed or the clothesline. The excess wear causes the ground to go hard (compaction) making it difficult for the turf to grow a runner through the compacted ground. A good way of looking at it is through the analogy of pushing a screw driver into sand, vs pushing a screw driver into asphalt. The same principal applies with a turf runner trying to grow through non-compacted ground vs compacted ground.

Here are our two recommended methods for repairing bare patches:

Method 1

If your bare patches are fairly small (smaller than an A4 sheet of paper), you can fix these patches without having to buy turf.

  • First, de-compact the ground with a chipping hoe or similar, to break up the soil to allow air and nutrients to penetrate. Turn the ground over to make sure it is de-compacted to a depth of at least 100mm.
  • Next, level the ground so it matches in with the existing levels. This will provide a nice soft base for the turf to produce a runner and repair itself. To help soften the base further, you can also apply a small amount of sandy top dress to the area that is bare.
  • After this, get into a regular program of fertilising and watering whilst the turf is repairing itself. Fertilise every 8 – 9 weeks and water a couple of times a week (you can get away with just watering the bare areas).

Whilst your grass is repairing, it is important to minimise traffic as much as possible. Depending on the time of the year and the size of the patch, the repair process will generally take a couple of months to fully complete.

damaged grass

Method 2

The second method, which is preferred, is to lay new turf to the affected bare area. It is also recommended to use this method on smaller areas as it is quicker, easier, and much cheaper in the long run.

  • First, rake out any dead foliage in the bare area.
  • Next, similar to the first method, turn over and level the existing soil and bring in new sandy loam (if needed) to bring the ground level up to the existing grass.
  • Once the area is prepared, pop down to your nearest LSA accredited turf supplier and pick up the amount of turf you need.
  • Cut the turf to the size required (remember when preparing the area to try and make it as square as possible to help with the patch up) and lay it in the bare patch.
  • Use any leftover sandy soil to top dress around the edges if you have any to do so.
  • Water the new turf in well, as you would a new lawn, and try to avoid mowing it until it has rooted into the ground. Continue watering regularly to keep the new turfs feet wet whilst it is establishing into the ground.

lay new lawn

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

How to Stop Patches from Scalping While Mowing

Have you noticed patches appearing on your lawn from scalping after you have given your lawn a mow? In this blog, we look at why this occurs and how to avoid scalping your lawn when mowing.

Determine Why Your Lawn is Scalping

The first step is to determine why scalping is occurring. Scalping occurs when a lawn is mown too short. When too much of the leaf is removed, it will cause the grass to look brown in patches.

Here are some reasons why scalping might be occurring on your lawn.

  • Has the lawn been growing too long in between mows?
  • Are your lawns levels uneven? Are there high and low sections of the lawn?
  • Does your lawn have an accumulation of thatch?

How to Reset the Height of Your Lawn

If scalping occurs from your lawn growing too long in between mows or an accumulation of thatch it is best to reset the height if your grass.

To do this, give the lawn a low mow a notch or two below your normal/preferred mowing height. If your lawn has an accumulation of thatch, you may need to bring down the mower a few more notches to allow it to reach down into the thatch layer. (When lowering the mowing height on Buffalo it is best to ensure you are not mowing too low and cutting into the runner). After you mow the lawn, it won’t look great at first, but it will be able to recover over the coming weeks. During this recovery period, it is best to ensure you keep water up to the lawn. Raise your mower back up to your preferred mowing height on your next mow. This process is best done while the lawn is actively growing throughout the warmer months and should be avoided in the cooler months while your lawn is growing at a slower rate.

After this, you will need to ensure you are frequently mowing to help avoid scalping the lawn again. As a rule of thumb, mow your lawn frequently enough so that only one-third of the leaf is removed with each pass. This means you will need to mow more frequently in warmer months as the grass grows faster. Conversely, you won’t need to cut as often in the cooler months as the grass will grow slower.


How to Fix Your Lawns Levels

If scalping occurs from mowing over high spots in your lawn, you can add soil/sand to amend the lawn levels. This process is known as top dressing. When top dressing to improve levels, we recommend using sand. Something like washed plasterers’ sand or washed river sand is ideal.

When top dressing, it is best to give the lawn a low mow beforehand to ensure the top-dressing material will reach the soil profile. Best to also ensure at most 5-10 mm thickness is applied at one time. The sand should be rubbed in evenly using a lawn-leveller bar or the back of a rake to work the sand into the profile.

Check out our blog here for more information on applying a top dressing here.

top dress

Other Mowing Tips 

Now you are fully equipped to help stop scalping from occurring. We have a few final tips to ensure you will get the best cut when mowing.

  • Ensure your mower has sharp mower blades.
  • Mow when the lawn is dry, and try to avoid mowing when the lawn is wet.
  • Mow at the same length and keep it consistent.
  • Switch mowing directions.
  • Mow in the mornings or afternoons. Avoid mowing in the middle of the day.
  • Keep at a constant pace.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

What is the Best Couch Grass?

The best couch grass in Australia is TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda (Couch).

tiftuf hybrid bemuda

TifTuf has proven itself as the best performer in independent trials both here in Australia and in the US.

In Australia, the Sports Turf Research Institute (STRI) conducted a trial evaluating the “Performance of bermuda (couch) grass cultivars under different shade, irrigation and wear treatments”. The Sports Turf Research Institute (STRI) conducts world-leading testing and research for developing innovative techniques and products to improve turfgrass and sports surfaces.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda was a clear stand-out performer in this trial outperforming all other available couch grasses.

TifTuf was also the best performing couch grass in US turf trials called the NTEP (National Turf Evaluation Program). TifTuf led from the front and was in the top 25% of grasses across all states and measures trialled, over 92.9% of the time.

Which couch grass is the most drought-tolerant?

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is the world’s leading turf grass for superior water efficiency and drought tolerance. The only grass in Australia or the world to be awarded the Smart Approved WaterMark for drought tolerance is TifTuf.

TifTuf was bred to be drought tolerant and save water. With TifTuf becoming the new benchmark when it comes to measuring the drought tolerance of turf. Read drought trial results here.

What is the most hard-wearing couch grass?

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is the most hard-wearing and has incredible recovery and self-repairing qualities. When subjected to a range of trials under different shade, irrigation and wear treatments, TifTuf was the best-performing turf grass trialled.

What grass do they use on sports fields in Australia?

Most elite sporting surfaces in Australia are couch grass surfaces. Hybrid couch (Bermuda) grasses in recent years show superior qualities and are the go-to surface for installation on new and improved sporting turf facilities. For sports fields looking to install the best grass for their facilities, the best couch grass is TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda.

tiftuf grass

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is the product of almost 25 years of research and development from one of the world’s leading turfgrass breeders, the University of Georgia in Tifton. Tifton is famous for grasses like Tif Eagle, Tif Sport and now TifTuf.

Out of tens of thousands of couch grasses, TifTuf was selected as the best performing and most drought-tolerant turf trialled.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

A Complete Guide for Watering Lawns

Advice on watering lawns can differ substantially depending on who you ask, and more often than not, more water is used than is required.

How do you know if you are watering your new lawn enough?

Providing water to your new lawn is so important to ensure that it gets off to the best possible start. A new lawn that has been correctly watered will have deep roots, consistent colour and health. This will ensure that you create a lawn that is resilient, hardy and drought tolerant. Once established, in times of low to zero rainfall over an extended period, your lawn will survive to thrive again when it receives the moisture that it needs.

Watering New Lawns

Only freshly laid turf needs to be watered a couple of times a day, every day, for the first couple of weeks. Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established.

Important tips for new lawns:

  • Water a few times a day, every day for the first couple of weeks
  • Water in the mornings and throughout the day as required
  • Keep the ‘feet’ of the turf damp at all times to help the roots establish into the soil
  • Water the new turf evenly using a sprinkler or irrigation system

The key thing you are trying to achieve is moisture in the soil down to a depth of 150mm. This will ensure your roots establish into soil easily and it provides the moisture it needs as it goes. Keeping the ‘feet’ of your new turf wet is paramount. This will mean checking on your new turf a few times a day to make sure that the soil is still damp and hasn’t completely dried out. Reacting to this and adjusting the frequency of watering to coincide with the current weather conditions will help to give the lawn every possible chance of staying healthy and robust.

A common problem that we see is where new turf simply hasn’t been watered enough. The lawn stunts in growth and doesn’t establish its roots into the soil. From there it is an uphill battle to get it where you need it. Signs that your turf isn’t getting the water it needs include yellowing across the entire roll, curling or wilted leaves, no lateral growth or when lifted there are no visible white roots establishing into the soil.

How do I know if my new turf is getting enough water?

Ask yourself how much water is my lawn getting? If your answer is plenty or a lot, you probably need to delve a little deeper into the specifics. What are you using to water? When are you watering? For how long and at what time of day? Putting a few catch cups around the area when the irrigation is on will give you a good idea of how much water your new turf is receiving and how evenly.

If you notice consistent discolouration across the entire turf roll or slab, it is likely you are not watering enough. If the discolouration is limited to the edges where the turf was cut, this is considered normal. This part of the turf is more likely to dry out quicker and be in more stress from being cut. You can top dress the joins of your new turf to limit this. Ultimately as long as you provide the turf with enough water for it to stay green and hydrated, as the turf begins to grow laterally the dry edges will disappear and look a lot healthier.

Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering, depending on the weather and the climate in your region. Signs that your turf is establishing include turf becoming less easily lifted, colour across the turf remains green, vertical leaf growth is consistent and lateral growth is slowly reducing the visibility of the lines between each roll.

Perform spot checks after three weeks to determine if the turf can be lifted. If it can in certain areas and not others, chances are its roots are shallower in those areas; these spots will need to catch up with the assistance of additional deep watering during establishment.

Watering Established Lawns

Water is an important element in your lawn care and maintenance program. With a clever choice of lawn and the correct preparation you can keep watering to a minimum once your lawn is established.

Choose a drought tolerant turf variety

The easiest way to limit the amount you need to water your lawn, is to put in a drought tolerant turf variety in the first place.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda has recently received certification and is the first and only turfgrass to ever receive the Smart Approved WaterMark in Australia and across the world. In the US, TifTuf will now automatically be approved for the ‘Water Sense’ program. This means TifTuf is the first turf grass not just in Australia, but throughout the world, to receive recognition to this level of water saving efficiency.

Click here to learn more.

A common question we get asked here at Lawn Solutions Australia is, “how do I know if I am watering my lawn enough?” – The answer to this question can be quite different due to a variety of factors.

Some of these factors include:

  • The climate in your area and the season
  • Water restrictions
  • Access to and cost of water
  • Your soil type and its ability to absorb and hold water
  • Lawn variety and its drought tolerance
  • Environmental factors such as how much sun, shade, wind or heat there is in your garden and your area
  • The health of your lawn

Make sure your sprinkler can cover the lawn evenly, regardless of whether it’s a manual shift or automatic sprinkler system. Be sure that no areas hold water and they are all drained well.

When should I water my lawn?

The simple answer is – when your lawn needs it. It is important that you only irrigate when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. When you do water, do so within the rules outlined by local water restrictions.

If you water your lawn 3 times a week at 8am every single week regardless of the weather or moisture content of the soil, it’s very likely you are overwatering your lawn. This will lead to shallow roots and a lawn that has been taught to expect regular watering, so without it, it will turn its ‘toes’ and begin to struggle during even the shortest of periods without moisture.

Most common lawn types in Australia can survive extended periods of drought. They will lose colour, becoming brown and dry, with little to no leaf growth, but they will generally sit dormant until the next rain or irrigation event.

A common misconception is that a drought tolerant lawn won’t go brown. Drought tolerance relates to a turf varieties ability to recover after extended periods without irrigation. Some grasses will survive in extreme conditions with minimal water, but not look their best, while others will look better for longer, but can die without adequate water.

How do I know if my lawn needs watering? Just look for the tell-tale signs:

  • Leaf is wilting or losing colour.
  • If you walk across your lawn and leave a footprint behind, then your lawn is likely lacking in water. If it bounces back, your lawn should be well hydrated. This is known as the footprint test.
  • During hot weather, if it’s dry and crusty, taking on a brown colour, there’s a good chance it needs water.

The best time to water your lawn is early morning or late in the afternoon/early evening. This is when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat related evaporation. In humid areas, avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal diseases. Early morning is best.

By utilising these tips, you can ensure your freshly laid turf or fully established lawn have the ideal amount of moisture and all water consumption is limited to what is required and effective.


As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Which Lawn Trends Are Worth the Hype?

Which Lawn Trends Are Worth the Hype?

If you are in the lawn care community, you may have heard of different product types and wondered if they are all there are talked up to be. In this blog, we look at a few popular lawn care trends and assess if they are worth the hype surrounding them.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR’s)

Plant growth regulators will suppress your lawns vertical growth and increase the lawns lateral growth. This helps the grass to become denser while reducing the number of times you need to mow. This product is used throughout the warmer months when the grass is actively growing to help reduce mowing.

plant growth regulator

PGRs are only recommended for use in the warmer months and should be avoided in winter. As PGRs are more of a commercial-style product, you will need to calibrate your sprayer for application. Check out our blog here for more information on how to calibrate your sprayer.

If you struggle to keep up with regular mows in the warmer months or want to take your lawn to another level, PGRs are a great option. We recommend using PGR Primo Maxx.

primo maxx

Pre-emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides will stop stubborn weeds before they appear in your lawn. They work by creating a barrier at the soil level, stopping any new weed seedlings in their tracks. They are ideal for controlling seasonal weeds like Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crab Grass, and Creeping Oxalis. However, one thing to note – is that pre-emergents won’t treat weeds that are present in your lawn but will prevent further seasonal weeds from growing.


Pre-emergents are perfect to use if you want to help prevent weed invasions in your lawn. We recommend using pre-emergent Oxafert.


Battery Powered Fertiliser Spreaders

Battery-powered spreaders are another great popular lawn care trend. They will assist in spreading out granular lawn care products across your lawn, ensuring you have even product coverage. The advantage of battery-powered spreaders over manual handheld spreaders is that you don’t need to turn the handle to disperse the product, which may cause hand cramps over a larger area. When using a battery spreader, you will also be able to cover your area quicker than with a manual handheld spreader.

If you have a larger area size, battery spreaders like the Ryobi One+ fertiliser Spreader and the Ozito PXC 18V Fertiliser Spreader are ideal (batteries sold separately). However, a manual handheld spreader will still do an adequate job if you only have a small area.

Liquid Fertilisers

Liquid fertilisers can provide a quick boost of nutrients to your lawn. They do this as the leaves and roots of your grass absorb the fertiliser. However, when using liquid fertilisers you will need to apply them more frequently for results over a longer period.

Liquid fertilisers are ideal for lawns that are already in shape but are looking for a quick boost. For liquid fertilising, we recommend using Exceed Liquid Fertiliser.

exceed liquid fertiliser

If your lawn is in poor shape and you are wanting to help give the lawn a sustained boost over a longer period of time, we recommend using a granular fertiliser, like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser.

lawn fertiliser

Ozito Cylinder Mower

If you are following any lawn care pages, you have probably seen the hype around this mower. The steel cylinder blades can provide a clean and precise cut like the bigger, much more pricey cylinder mowers on the market. The Ozito mowers adjustable cutting height is between 14-38mm, cutting a bit higher than larger cylinder mowers. The Ozito Cylinder Mower is battery-powered. Please note you do need to buy the rechargeable battery separately. This battery is also compatible with many other Ozito home and garden tools.

For its price point, it is a great alternative from the bigger cylinder mowers. It can provide a much cleaner cut than other rotary mowers around the same price point. It is easy to use, manoeuvre, clean, and store. Although the roller attached can be a bit light, we have seen a few people adding a steel roller attachment allowing for better stripes.


As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.