Category: Seasonal Advice

Fertilising your lawn is a necessity! It keeps your healthy green lawn looking amazing all year round. In this blog we discuss tips on how to fertilise lawn!

Preparing Your Lawn for Fertilisation

• Mow your lawn before fertilising.

• Rake and removing debris for better fertiliser absorption.

• Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient needs to make sure you are purchasing the correct fertiliser for your lawns needs!

Choosing the Right Lawn Fertiliser

Synthetic Fertilisers are manufactured from minerals, gasses from the air and inorganic waste materials where as Organic Fertilisers are derived from natural sources such as microbes, organic waste and other similar materials.

Slow release fertilisers make nutrients available to your lawn for an extended period for up to two months whereas a quick release fertiliser is going to make nutirents available for a period of approximately two weeks. It’s very important to use slow release fertiliser during the growing seasons.

Choosing the right fertiliser for your lawns needs:

1. Determine your turf variety
2. Determine your soil quality
3. Choose the right feriliser nutrients for your lawn, common nutrients:

Nitrogen

Postassium (K)

Phosphorus

4. Talk to the turf experts! Not sure on what fertiliser to use for a healthy lawn? Reach out to our friendly staff for advice!

Types of Fertilisers

There are 2 main types of lawn fertilisers available on the market, granular and liquid fertiliser.

Granular Fertilisers

Granular Fertilisers are the easiest and most popular option to use. Granular products to take longer to be absorbed by your lawn but usually will release the nutrients over a longer period of time.

Always read the labelled rates and ensure you work out the correct application rate for your lawn size. The most important thing is to spread the fertiliser evenly and cover the area as best you can.

Lawn Solutions Fertiliser Premium Lawn Food is a professional blend of both slow and fast release granules containing all the essential nutrients and trace elements for all lawn types.

Liquid Fertiliser

Liquid Fertilisers work faster than granular fertiliser as they are applied directly onto the leaf and are absorbed quickly. This will help give your lawn a quick but short boost!

Again, always read the labelled rates and ensure you work out the correct application rate for your lawn size. The most important thing is to spread the fertiliser evenly and cover the area as best you can.

Exceed is a premium, professional foliar fertiliser designed to bring out the best in any lawn.

Tools and Equipment for Fertilisation

Broadcast VS Drop Spreaders

Broadcast Spreaders scatter the lawn fertiliser over a large area in a fan-like pattern. Broadcast Spreaders are best for covering large areas of lawn efficiently.

Drop Spreaders are gravity-fed and drop the fertiliser straight downward in neat rows with a great deal of accuracy. These are easy to use and control and can make it easy to work in around obstacles and tight spots. However, there is a danger of stripping if you don’t overlap your wheel paths.

Hand-held Spreaders

Hand-held spreaders are ideal for those lawns that are too small for even the smallest of push mowers! Hand-held spreaders can hold approximately 300m2 of fertiliser and it provides an even dispersal and is very simple to use.

Backpack or Knapsack Sprayers

When working with liquid fertilisers, you’ll need a sprayer. We’d recommend a knapsack or backpack sprayer. These are easy to use, especially the backpack sprayer as you don’t have to carry around the knapsack whilst you apply!

Always make sure to wear gloves when handling any fertiliser chemicals & if needed, a mask for ventilation.

Step-by-Step Fertilisation Process

Make sure to measure out your lawn size to ensure you apply an even amount of fertiliser and at the correct rate.

We always recommend using a fertiliser spreader to apply granules to ensure a smooth and even application to cover the area as best you can.

We recommend walking up and back, then across in the opposite direction to get the best coverage.

Always keep an eye on how wide you are spreading the granules to ensure you dont double up and burn your lawn!

Time to water!! This is an important step to help avoid burning on your lawn. Not all fertilisers need to be watered in, but the majority do. If you are unsure, read your products label or check with the product manufacturer. Read more below about Irrigation programming.

Post-Fertilisation Lawn Care

The following information is a guide only. Evaporation and transpiration rates can vary considerably depending on soil type, grass variety and microclimate.

Water requirements vary throughout the year and the basic rule is the hotter the temperature the more water is required to replace soil moisture loss via evaporation and plant usage.

Some of our turf grasses go dormant in the winter months and water requirements is very low however our winters can still be mild to warm and usually drier hence evaporation can still take place so watering may still be required. The following graph represents average water requirements per week for the months indicated.

Rain fall events will replace the need to run irrigation during those periods. Without soil moisture probes it can be difficult to judge when is the best time to commence your watering schedule.

Irrigation Programming

Irrigate between 6pm and midnight or throughout the night until 8am if you have long program times or events limiting night time irrigation. This will help reduce evaporation losses and minimise risk of disease. Applying more irrigation than is required will only waste water as the turf grass cannot use it. The exception to this rule is during periods of prolonged drought sub soil moisture can be lost and it is desirable to try to re wet the sub soil and some of our grasses and plants tap into this sub soil especially our drought tolerant varieties that have massive root systems. The irrigation controller should be set or adjusted each month to reflect the requirements in this guide.

Less frequent watering with longer run times will provide deeper water movement through the profile. This will encourage deeper root systems and a plant that is more adaptable to drought. As a guide water once per week in winter and twice a week in summer, adjusting the run times in line with chart above. Heavy or compacted soil may prevent water infiltration in one application so cycle the irrigation to provide multiple run times through the night to apply the required amount.

To calculate your sprinkler run times it is best to measure the amount of water applied utilising the catch can method. Running off the manufacturers guide is ok but there are variables to consider like available pressure and flow. Nozzle size, sprinkler lay out and wind all play a part in the final precipitation. The catch can method is where rain gauges or open cans (cans must be open on the top and sides even) are placed on the field between sprinklers. An average can be calculated, and a run time programmed to provide the required amount of water.

Common Fertilisation Mistakes to Avoid

• Over-fertilising your lawn can cause some major issues! It will cause sudden plant growth, paticularly leaf growth & thatch. This issue with this is that the roots will not experience the same amount of rapid growth and will then be unable to supply the amount of water and nutrients your lawn needs.
• Under-fertilising can reduce growth and paleness of colour within your lawn! Make sure to reach the labelled rates to ensure you are applying the correct amount!
• Applying fertiliser at the wrong time of day can be detrimental to your lawn! Avoid burning your lawn and apply fertiliser in the late afternoon or early morning. Avoid applying fertiliser during the middle of the day.

FAQs

How soon can I mow my lawn after fertilising?

It’s best to wait at least 24 to 48 hours after fertilising before mowing your lawn. This allows the fertiliser to settle into the soil and the grass to absorb the essential nutrients effectively.

Can I fertilise my lawn before a rainstorm?

Light rain can help fertiliser absorb into the soil, but a heavy rainstorm can wash away the fertiliser before it has a chance to be effective. Ideally, fertilise when light rain is expected or water the lawn yourself after application.

What should I do if I accidentally over-fertilise?

If you suspect over-fertilisation, water your lawn thoroughly to help dilute and wash away excess fertiliser. Monitor your lawn for signs of nutrient burn and avoid additional fertilisation until the grass recovers.

Conclusion

Remember to always follow labelled rates and ensure you are purchasing the right fertiliser for your lawns needs! Soil pH tests can be your best friend when working out what amendments and fertilisers your lawn really needs!

A great way to keep on top of your lawn fertilising would be to create yourself a little go to guide depending on your lawn type! Always feel free to reach out to our friendly staff with tips on the best fertilisers to use and when to use them!!

Introduction

Fertilising your lawn is a necessity! It keeps your healthy green lawn looking amazing all year round. In this blog we discuss tips on seasonal lawn care and when to fertilise lawn.

Understanding Your Lawn’s Needs

Application Guide for Lawn Solutions Fertiliser

 

Application Guide for Exceed Liquid Fertiliser

Completing a soil test on your lawn can help you assess what nutrients your lawn & soil needs to ensure you are applying the correct fertilisers for your lawns requirements.

Best Times to Fertilise Your Lawn

Spring Fertilisation

Early Spring vs Late Spring – For the first application it is best to apply in late spring just as your lawn is beginning to actively grow. Early spring is when your lawn is putting all it’s energy into root development so if you apply fertilisers too early then it will divert your lawns energy into leaf development too soon.

Spring is such an important time to fertilise, as your lawn is coming out of winter dormancy. Fertiliser applications will assist your lawn to jump into growth as the weather begins to warm up.

Types of Fertiliser

• Granular Fertilisers – Recommendation Lawn Solutions Fertiliser Premium Lawn Food
• Liquid Fertilisers – Recommendation Exceed Liquid Fertiliser or Iron Guard Plus
• Natural Fertilisers – Recommendation Lawn Kelper

Summer Fertilisation

Summer fertilising can help your lawn maintain an even growth pattern. If you fertilised in spring, it’s now likely time for another application. Most slow release fertilisers available on the market will provide nutrient uptake for up to 12 weeks. If you fertilised late spring, then now is a great time for a top up.

Avoid burning your lawn, do not fertiliser when daytime temperatures reach over 30c. Wait for the temperatures to cool down.

Types of Fertiliser

• Granular Fertilisers – Recommendation Lawn Solutions Fertiliser Premium Lawn Food
• Liquid Fertilisers – Recommendation Exceed Liquid Fertiliser or Iron Guard Plus
• Natural Fertilisers – Recommendation Lawn Kelper

Autumn Fertilisation

During the months of April-May, the temperatures begin to cool down and your lawn shifts it’s focus from growing leaf to root development. Apply a balanced fertiliser during early autumn to help strengthen the roots making your lawn more resilient to the upcoming cooler months.

Types of Fertiliser

• Granular Fertilisers – Recommendation Lawn Solutions Fertiliser Premium Lawn Food
• Liquid Fertilisers – Recommendation Exceed Liquid Fertiliser or Iron Guard Plus
• Natural Fertilisers – Recommendation Lawn Kelper

Winter Fertilisation

There are definitely benefits to fertilising your lawn during winter. Once our soil temperatures drop below 14 degrees Celsius your grass will start to dlow down and go semi-dormant for the upcoming cooler months.

Types of Fertiliser

• Liquid Fertilisers – Recommendation Exceed Liquid Fertiliser or ColourGuard Plus

Exceed Liquid Fertiliser as increased amounts of Potassium and Iron. Postassium is great for providing strength to the whole plant and helps cell function. Iron is great for strengthening your grass as well as improving leaf colour.

ColourGuard Plus will help improve your lawns colour and apperance during the colder months.

Frequency of Lawn Fertiliser

You want to make sure that when you fertiliser your lawn that you are applying it at the right time of the year to make sure you get the most out of your fertiliser.

The most common warm season varieties like couch, kikuyu, zoysia and buffalo love to be fed around mid-spring. Another around Australia Day in summer and then again around Easter or Anzac Day in Autumn this will help boost your lawn before heading back into winter.

Types of Fertilisers

There are 2 main types of fertilisers available on the market, granular and liquid fertiliser.

Granular Fertilisers

Granular Fertilisers are the easiest and most popular option to use. Granular products to take longer to be absorbed by your lawn but usually will release the nutrients over a longer period of time.

Always read the labelled rates and ensure you work out the correct application rate for your lawn size. The most important thing is to spread the fertiliser evenly and cover the area as best you can.

Lawn Solutions Fertiliser Premium Lawn Food is a professional blend of both slow and fast release granules containing all the essential nutrients and trace elements for all lawn types.

Liquid Fertiliser

Liquid Fertilisers work faster than granular fertiliser as they are applied directly onto the leaf and are absorbed quickly. This will help give your lawn a quick but short boost!

Again, always read the labelled rates and ensure you work out the correct application rate for your lawn size. The most important thing is to spread the fertiliser evenly and cover the area as best you can.

Exceed is a premium, professional foliar fertiliser designed to bring out the best in any lawn.

Tips for Effective Fertilisation

If applying granular fertilisers, a fertiliser spreader can be a very handy tool to have. Otherwise you can apply fertiliser using a smooth motion spreading by hand. We recommend walking up and back, then across in the opposite direction to get the best coverage.

Depending on what type of fertiliser you are using, will depend on what watering requirements are needed. Generally granular fertiliser needs the help of water for it to activate and for liquid fertiliser you should wait at least 24-48 hours before watering.

Remember to always follow labelled rates & application guides to ensure you are applying fertilisers correctly.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overfertilising your lawn can cause some major issues! It will cause sudden plant growth, paticularly leaf growth & thatch. This issue with this is that the roots will not experience the same amount of rapid growth and will then be unable to supply the amount of water and nutrients your lawn needs.

Your soils pH is very important, poor soil quality can lead to ongoing issues with your lawn. We’d definitely recommend testing your soils pH to ensure you are giving your lawn to correct amendments and fertilisers for it’s needs!

Applying fertilisers at the wrong time of day can be detramental to your lawn! Avoid burning your lawn and apply fertiliser in the late afternoon or early morning. Never during the middle of the day.

FAQs

Can I fertilise my lawn when it’s wet?

No, even though some fertiliser products need to be watered in on application. Applying fertiliser to your lawn when it is too wet can lead to the product failing and the plant not absorbing the nutrients. This includes both Granular and Liquid Fertiliser. Also, avoid fertilising right before heavy rain, as this can cause runoff and waste the fertiliser.

How do I know if my lawn needs fertiliser?

Signs that your lawn needs fertiliser include slow growth, a pale green or yellowish color, and thinning grass. Conducting a soil test can also help determine nutrient deficiencies and inform the appropriate fertiliser type and application rate.

What is the best time of day to fertilise my lawn?

The best time of day to fertilise your lawn is early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Avoid fertilising during the heat of the day, as high temperatures can cause the fertiliser to evaporate and potentially burn the grass.

Conclusion

Remember to always follow labelled rates and ensure you are purchasing the right fertiliser for your lawns needs! pH tests can be your best friend when working out what amendments and fertilises your lawn really needs!

A great way to keep on top of your fertilising would be to create yourself a little go to guide depending on your lawn type! Always feel free to reach out to our friendly staff with tips on the best fertilisers to use and when to use them!!

African Black Beetle

Scientific name: Heteronychus arator

Black beetles can be a common sight in and around your lawn. They are a natural part of the ecosystem and play an important role. We sometimes hear from people who have noticed them in their lawn and are concerned that they may be damaging their grass.

Here’s what you need to know…

It is rare that adult black beetle will cause much harm worth worrying about, it’s the root feeding black beetle larvae that cause the most damage. So, it’s important to understand their lifecycle and signs of infestation, so that you can take prompt action when they become active.

Description

Black beetle eggs are laid in spring and early summer. After several weeks the eggs hatch and the larvae or grubs emerge that then feed on the grass roots. It is when large numbers of these eggs hatch that it is a serious problem for some lawns. These larvae develop through 3 stages, the fully-grown larvae at the end of the third stage are around 25mm long. You will need to be particularly vigilant as the weather warms up, usually September to March, and after heavy rain.

The larvae then move into pre-pupae and pupae stages which cause no damage to your lawn, before developing into adults after about 2 months, in late Summer or early Autumn.

 

Adult beetles are black and shiny, about 15mm long, with brown serrated legs. The beetles are dormant or semi-dormant through the winter before laying eggs again in spring where the cycle repeats.

 

 

 

 

Symptoms

As a result of extensive root damage caused by these larvae, your lawn can no longer take up the moisture and nutrient it requires efficiently. This causes the grass to become dry and straw like, as it would during severe drought conditions.

When at its worst, the grass will actually be able to be peeled back easily from the soil surface as the roots have been eaten away. This is when you will inevitably find a large number of feeding larvae.

Treatment for Lawn Grubs

Due to the rate at which the grubs feed and move across your lawn, the number of eggs they lay, and the sheer numbers involved in an infestation, delaying treatment can be disastrous. Your local turf farmer can supply advice and treatment options.

You can also source fast-acting insecticide products here on our website as well, such as Lawn Solutions Grub Guard or Lawn Solutions Battle Insecticide to get the job sorted quickly and easily. Always remember to follow the manufacturer’s handling and safety instructions.

The most effective time to apply the treatment is as late in the day as possible while the adults are active.

To ensure the grubs are eradicated, apply the treatment again in two weeks. This is an especially important timeframe because eggs take 2-5 weeks to hatch and more grub’s will become present. A re-application at this point will ensure that any missed eggs or grubs are eliminated.

Prevention for Lawn Grubs and Pests

Unfortunately attack by these grubs can happen to any lawn and can occur numerous times during a season.

This is why we recommend Grub Guard Ultimate, Acelepryn GR, and Acelepryn Liquid. Acelepryn provides safe and effective control of black beetle while minimising the impact on the environment and non-target organisms, such as bees and earthworms.

Acelepryn targets pests such as black beetle, stem weevil, cut worm and army worm. The great thing about Acelepryn in comparison to other pesticides, is that it’s preventative. This is why spring is a great time to spread it out and protect your lawn for up to six months.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

There has been an increase in seed heads appearing across many turf varieties recently, in most cases this will be due to the seasonal change and is not a cause for major concern.

If your lawn has been fertilised in recent weeks and has sufficient moisture in the soil, they should stop appearing on their own within a matter of weeks.

 

Seed Heads – When these strange little things start popping up in your lawn it’s common that many people first think they have weeds in their lawn.

But they are not actually a weed, they are a seed head that has grown from the grass itself.

Normally when a turf variety goes to seed, it’s because it’s under stress from something, usually a lack of water or nutrient. Most common lawn types in Australia produce a sterile seed head, meaning they can’t be spread by seed, only through vegetative sprigs or runners. Although going to seed isn’t a bad thing for your lawn, it doesn’t look great or feel soft underfoot and can be a sign of an underlying problem.

Seed heads can be pretty easy to avoid for the most part, by sticking to a consistent lawn care program. The best way to stop your lawn from going to seed is through regular watering, mowing and fertilising throughout the year.

In most circumstances your lawn will stop going to seed on its own within a couple of weeks or so and it will be business as usual. If there has been dramatic weather change, it will stop seeding once conditions have gone back to normal or once the plant has adjusted. If weather conditions have been fairly consistent, then you will want to look at what it is that may have caused it to go into stress in the first place, like insufficient water, nutrient or soil composition.

If you haven’t had a lot of water or haven’t fertilised in a while, a really good deep soaking and an application with a good quality slow release fertiliser, should put an end to a nutrient or water deficiency and shortly after the grass will go back to normal.

If your lawn has an ongoing seeding issue and you can’t seem to get on top of it, contact your local turf supplier who can help with some local advice based on your current weather and growing conditions.

A plant growth regulator (PGR) like Primo Maxx will limit your lawns vertical growth and can help reduce the number of seed heads that your lawn produces. Regular mowing, twice a week, and the use of a PGR at full rates will minimise the seed head from flowering.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

It’s easy to get excited about doing a lawn renovation and all the things you might want to do to have your lawn the envy of the street. The best advice we can give you is to not go too early with any vigorous lawn maintenance activities like dethatching or top dressing. Your lawn needs to be actively growing and performing strongly during the warmer months before undertaking these activities. October long weekend in most states is a good guide.

You can prepare by organising the necessary equipment you need for each step, so you are ready to go when the lawn has started growing strongly again.

Do I need a lawn renovation?

A lawn renovation may be necessary if your lawn has developed a combination of thatch and compaction. It can also be a good time to do so when your lawn is looking unhealthy and specific soil improvements are required to improve the lawns foundation.

A full lawn renovation could be required every 3-4 years. Its not a must to do all the steps, but it can be highly beneficial from time to time if you are looking to achieve the best results with your lawn. Dethatching or top dressing will only be required more regularly if the lawn is a bit neglected. Some turf varieties require more frequent renovations, couch grass for example, depending on the level of inputs and preferred height of cut.

How do I do a lawn renovation?

Making sure you undertake a lawn renovation in the best order will ensure you get the best out of each activity and you get your lawn recovering from winter as quickly as possible.

1. Weeds removal
2. Dethatching
3. Aerating
4. Fertilising
5. Top dressing
6. Watering for recovery

Here is what you need:

• Knapsack/Pressure sprayer
• Herbicides like All Purpose Weed Control for weeds treatment
• Dethatching rake/machine (or hired machine)
• Manual aerating device, like a garden fork, tine aerator or manual corer (or hired machine)
• Fertiliser like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser
• Pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert
• Top dressing soil/sand
• Soil spreader
• pH test kit
• Soil amendments if required (gypsum, lime, sulphate of ammonia for e.g)
• Irrigation or sprinkler

Now that you’re prepared, here are some helpful videos to guide you through the process when the weather warms up:

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Armyworm, African Black Beetle larvae (lawn grubs), Cutworm, and other grubs can all quickly cause extensive damage to your lawn. But what if there was a way you could prevent these damage causing grubs from crawling throughout your lawn? Well, Grub Guard Ultimate Powered by Acelepryn is your answer!

Prevention is the best solution

Grubs will often target the healthiest looking lawn on the street as their next tasty meal. When lawns get attacked by grubs, they often will have already created extensive damage before being noticed. Following an attack, the lawn can take a few weeks or a few months to fully repair itself. Instead of going through the long process of nursing your lawn back to health, prevention is a far better solution.

What is Grub Guard Ultimate?

Grub Guard Ultimate Powered by Acelepryn is an insecticide that provides your lawn with 6 months of protection from grubs and caterpillars like Armyworm in one single application. Grub Guard Ultimate works by targeting a specific muscle receptor that is common with damaging causing insects. Other non-target organisms like bees, earthworms, birds, fish, and mammals don’t use the same muscle receptors, making it one of the safest insecticides on the market!

When should you apply Grub Guard Ultimate?

As a general guide, Grub Guard Ultimate is best used in September/October and March/April to prevent a grub attack year round. One application of Grub Guard Ultimate will provide you with protection for up to 6 months. So, two applications per year will ensure your lawn is protected from grubs throughout the whole year.

How to apply Acelepryn based products?

For treating beetle larvae including African black beetle, Argentine Scarab, Argentine Stem Weevil larvae and Billbug Larvae, spread the granules evenly, 1-2kg per 100m2. We recommend using a calibrated spreader to ensure the granules are spread evenly to the lawn. You can also spread the granules by hand. After the granules have been spread out, give the granules a water in with a minimum of 3mm irrigation.

For Caterpillars including Cutworm, Armyworm, and Sod Worm, spread the granules evenly, 1kg per 100m2. Again, we recommend using a calibrated spreader for an even application. You can also spread the granules by hand. After application, delay mowing and watering for 24 hours. After 24 hours have passed, water the granules in.

Acelepryn Liquid

For treating Lawn Curl Grub (Beetle larvae including: African Black Beetle larvae Argentinian Scarab larvae), Argentine Stem Weevil larvae and Billbug larvae, you can apply through a garden sprayer or watering can. For a garden sprayer use 8 – 15 mL per 5-10 L of water per 100 m2. Wheh applying with a watering can, mix 1.5 mL in 9 L of water and evenly apply to 10 m2. Apply the higher rate for up to 6 months residual protection, cases of high pest pressure, and late in season when mature grubs are present. Lightly water in immediately after application when applying by garden sprayer.

Acelepryn Liquid 100ml

Acelepryn 10kg

Common signs of grubs

When grubs are present in your lawn, they will eat through your lawn’s roots. As the turf can then no longer absorb nutrients, the grass will become dry and straw like. When there is an infestation, large areas of the lawn will be affected quickly.

How do I know if my lawn has grubs?

If you think your lawn may already have grubs, it is best to do a quick lawn grub test. To do this, mix a bucket of soapy water and pour it over the edge of an affected area. Keep an eye on it and after about 10 minutes or so, usually if there are grubs there, they will come to the surface. This is best done at dawn or dusk when grubs are most active.

What to do if you already have grubs?

If your lawn already has a grub infestation, it is best to act quickly to help prevent further damage. Delaying treatment can cause a substantial amount of damage as the grubs will move fast along the lawn while laying eggs and increasing in numbers.

After you have identified there is an infestation, we recommend using a fast-acting product for a quick knockdown. We recommend using Lawn Solutions Grub Guard or Battle Insecticide to get the job done quickly. When using insecticides, it is always best to check the label for application and safety instructions.

The best time to apply the treatment is in the late afternoon/dusk when the lawn grubs are most likely to be active. To ensure you have treated the full lifecycle of the grubs, apply a second treatment in 2 weeks. This will help ensure that any eggs that may be in the lawn have been treated, avoiding a second attack. If you do still see these grubs after this, reapply every 2 weeks until they are gone.

Grub Treat and Protect Bundle

Protect your lawn from lawn pests with this one-two punch to treat an existing infestation and to protect your lawn for up to 6 months. If you have noticed damage to your lawn caused by black beetle larvae or Army worm, this bundle provides Battle Insecticide for a fast knock-down treatment, along with Grub Guard Ultimate – the best product on the market for lawn pest prevention in lawns.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Did you know there is such a thing as too early to mow? Here at Lawn Solutions, we believe there is no better sound than a mower starting up on a Saturday morning, but your neighbours might disagree! In this blog, we look at what time each state allows you to start up your mower to help you keep the peace between you and your neighbours.

Just like power equipment and construction noise in residential areas, there are permitted hours for each region to run your mower. Your local environmental protection agency often puts these noise regulations in place to help ensure your neighbours are not woken up at dawn and can get a good early night’s sleep.

So, what are the regulations for your state? Let’s take a look…

New South Wales

In NSW, mow between 7am to 8pm Monday to Saturday. On Sundays and public holidays, you can mow between 8am to 8pm. In NSW these rules have been set out by the NSW Department of Planning and Environment.

Queensland

The Environmental Protection Act 1994 in QLD states that you can mow your lawn between 7am to 7pm Monday to Saturday. On Sundays and public holidays, mow between 8am to 7pm.

Victoria

In Victoria, you can mow Monday to Friday between 7 am to 8pm. You can mow between 9am – 8pm on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, according to the Environmental Protection Authority Victoria.

South Australia

In South Australia, you can mow between 7am to 7pm Monday to Saturday and from 9am to 7pm Sunday and public holidays. These rules have been set out by EPA South Australia.

Tasmania 

In Tasmania, you can mow between 7am to 8pm Monday to Friday. On Saturdays you can mow between 9am to 8pm and Sundays and public holidays between 10am to 8pm. These rules have been set out by EPA Tasmania.

Northern Territory 

In the NT, you can mow between 7am to 8pm Monday to Saturday and 8am to 8pm Sunday and public holidays, according to the NT EPA.

Canberra

In the ACT, lawn mowing can be done 7am to 8pm Monday to Saturday and 8am to 8pm Sundays and public holidays, according to Access Canberra.

Western Australia

In WA, generally lawn mowers can be used between 7am to 7pm Monday to Saturday and 9am to 7pm Sundays and public holidays. This is for most regions within WA.

Mowing Tips

Now that you have got what time you can mow down packed let’s take a look at a few tips on how you can sure you get the best cut:

• Mow regularly enough so that only one third of the leaf is removed with each pass.
• Ensure your mowers blades are nice and sharp.
• Mow when the lawn is dry and try to avoid mowing when the lawn is wet.
• Mow at the same length and keep it consistent.
• Switch mowing directions.
• Mow in the mornings or afternoons. Avoid mowing in the middle of the day.
• Keep at a consistent pace.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Pre-emergent herbicides are fantastic products to add to your lawn care regime. With these herbicides, your application timing can impact how well it will work to prevent weeds in your lawn. In this blog, we look at the optimal times throughout the year to apply a pre-emergent to get the best results.

How Does a Pre-Emergent Work?

Pre-emergents work by targeting weed seedlings during germination. They create a barrier at the soil level that affects the germination of any new seedlings. This means they will target weeds before they appear but will not be effective after weeds have started growing.

Why Should I Time My Application?

As pre-emergents work by targeting weeds before they appear, you will need to time your application just before weeds are set to start growing in your lawn. If you can create the barrier at the soil level before the weeds are set to start growing, you can stop them during their germination phase.

When to Apply a Pre-Emergent for Seasonal Summer Weeds?

Some seasonal summer weeds that pre-emergents will help target include Summer Grass, Crabgrass, and Crowsfoot. Seasonal summer weeds will start to germinate when the soil temperatures begin to warm back up, usually when the average soil temperature is above approximately 14 degrees. So, it is best to get your application down before the temperatures are set to rise in your region. The exact time for your application will change depending on your location and temperatures in your region. As a guide, this will usually occur around early to mid-spring.

When Should I Apply a Pre-Emergent for Seasonal Winter Weeds?

Pre-emergents can also be used to help prevent seasonal winter weeds, including Winter Grass. Seasonal winter weeds will start to germinate once the average soil temperatures start to drop below approximately 14 degrees. Therefore, it is best to get your application on just before this is set to occur. Like prevention for summer weeds, the exact time this will occur will depend on your location and temperatures in your region. As a guide, this will usually happen around mid to late autumn.

What Pre-Emergent Should I Use?

When it comes to using pre-emergents, we recommend using our Lawn Solutions Oxafert Pre-Emergent Herbicide and Fertiliser. Oxafert comes in a handy 3kg bag that will treat up to 100m2. It is safe for most warm season turf types, including Sir Walter DNA Certified, TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda, Sir Grange, Zoysia Australis and Kikuyu. This product also contains a balanced ratio of nutrients to help boost your lawn for healthier all-round turf. Oxafert will remain active on your lawn for up to 12 weeks, for protection of seasonal weeds.

What Weeds Will Oxafert Target?

Oxafert will help control the germination of Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crowsfoot, Creeping Oxalis and Crabgrass.

What Should I Use for Weeds That Are Already Growing?

If you already have weeds growing in your lawn, it is best to get on top of them as soon as possible to help prevent their spread. Whem there are only a few weeds growing throughout your lawn, hand removal is an effective option. If the weeds are more widespread and there is too much to remove by hand you may need to look at using an herbicide for removal. For removing common broadleaf weeds like Clover, Bindii, Creeping Oxalis, Cudweed and Thistles, we recommend using a broadleaf herbicide like our All Purpose Weed Control.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Winter weeds can be a real nuisance and undo all the hard work you put into getting your lawn looking superb during the warmer months.

The best time to treat winter weeds in your lawn is during winter. By doing so, you have a better chance of getting them before germination. This will stop them from dropping their seeds back into the soil and coming back again next season.

Here are some of the most common weeds that appear during winter and what you can do to remove them from your lawn.

Winter Grass

Winter Grass (Poa Annua) is a low growing turf grass. It has soft, drooping green leaves grown in tufts with triangular shaped seed heads. If you allow Winter Grass to drop its seeds, next winter it will be back, twice as badly as it was the previous year.

Winter Grass can be removed very easily by hand as it doesn’t have particularly deep roots and it doesn’t have any runners, growing in simple clumps.

Using a combination of a pre-emergent like Oxafert and a selective Winter Grass control like Winter Grass Killer at the correct time of year should ensure Winter Grass is eradicated from your lawn. Amgrow Winter Grass Killer is safe to use on buffalo lawns (including Sir Walter DNA Certified), blue and common couches. However, Amgrow Winter Grass Killer should be avoided on Kikuyu and fescue lawns. If you do happen to have a Kikuyu lawn an alternative post emergent herbicide is Munns Professional Winter Grass Killer.

Bindii

Bindii is possibly the most annoying weed due to the pain it causes to our bare feet! It is a low growing weed with a flower at its centre. At maturity, the flower produces a prickly seed pod. This seed pod is a particular menace during the warmer months when we are trying to enjoy our lawns. Bindii can be managed by hand or by applying a selective broadleaf herbicide like Bin-Die or Lawn Solutions Australia All Purpose Weed Control. This will help to eradicate these weeds in all lawn types including kikuyu and couch. It is safe to use on most varieties of buffalo except the ST varieties. A repeat application may be required.

The best time to target Bindii is in Winter before it produces the seed pod and spreads throughout your lawn.

Clover

Clover is another common winter weed. It is one of those legume plants, like beans and lucerne or alfalfa, that draws nitrogen from the air and stores it in its roots.  As the roots die back, the nitrogen is replenished into the soil but where there is sufficient nitrogen in your soil to keep your lawn healthy, the clover struggles to survive. In most cases when you see clover growing in your lawn it means that there isn’t enough nitrogen. So, a fertilise will help increase the nitrogen and slow the clover down.

Clover can also be managed by applying a selective broadleaf herbicide like Bin-Die or Lawn Solutions Australia All Purpose Weed Control.

Creeping Oxalis

Creeping Oxalis has small light green heart shaped leaves, very similar in appearance to clover. (Oxalis, have heart shaped leaves while clover has oval shaped leaves.) The flowers are small, about 3-4mm in diameter and bright yellow in colour containing five petals. Creeping Oxalis, as its name suggests, quickly runs along the surface of the soil and produces roots from the leaf as it goes. When seed pods mature, they dry out and explode, causing the seed to spread.

Once again, a selective herbicide such as Lawn Solutions Australia All Purpose Weed Control will help to eradicate these weeds in all lawn types including kikuyu and couch and are safe to use on most varieties of buffalo except the ST varieties.

Lawn Solutions Australia carry a wide range of weed and pest control products for buffalo and other lawn varieties. Remember to always follow manufacturer’s instructions on the pack.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Is my lawn dead?

• Is your lawn looking brown and discoloured?
• Has your lawn stopped growing?
• Are you worried your lawn won’t bounce back at spring time?

Your lawn has been slow in growth, you have been mowing a lot less frequently in the last couple months, and the grass has lost a little bit of colour.

Has it died?…

Most Australian lawns consist of warm-season turfgrasses. Kikuyu, Couch, Zoysia and Soft Leaf Buffalo lawns are the most common types and fit into this category. As the name ‘warm-season’ suggests; that’s the time when these grasses are actively growing. During the cooler months they slow down and can go into a certain level of dormancy; slowing growth and discolouring over winter. Warm-season grasses will experience different levels of dormancy depending on your area.

So, the answer to the question, “has my lawn died?” is thankfully no! – It is likely to be just in some level of dormancy.

Dormancy is a protection method that lawn grasses use to withstand freezing temperatures and frost. When grass becomes dormant the grass leaves thinning and drying out. This helps the grass store its energy in the lower parts of the grass stem and root areas. Warm season turf grasses like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda and Sir Walter DNA Certified rarely go into full dormancy in Australia. This is because the winters in Australia don’t really get cold enough.

What Couch Grass has the best winter colour?

In the image above there are two different couch grass varieties, both subjected to the same difficult conditions. The first plot on the left and the third plot, are both TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda. This photo was taken on the winter solstice, the shortest daylight hours of the year, when sunlight is limited and temperatures are low.

TifTuf has been shining in all trials for winter colour. We have seen this domestically, commercially and in Australian trials. The data from the US National Turf Evaluation Program replicated this as well with TifTuf (and Tifway) leading the way.

As the weather starts to cool down, so does lawn care with the grass not growing as vigorously as it did a few weeks ago in most cases. This change in growth normally occurs in warm-season grasses at soil temperatures around 14 degrees Celsius. It is not until this soil temperature consistently rises back above this temperature that your lawn will start to speed up its growth.

 

Can I lay a new lawn in the cooler months?

Whilst the warmer months in spring, summer and early autumn are the ideal time of year to lay a new lawn. However winter is still ok. There are even a few benefits in establishing a lawn in the cooler time of the year. There is a common misconception that installing a new warm season turf like Sir Walter DNA Certified cannot be done in cool conditions. This isn’t the truth, as turf is installed successfully all year round anywhere in Australia. In the warmer states, Like Queensland, Northern Territory, and northern WA this isn’t really an issue as the temperature doesn’t get cold enough. But in NSW, Victoria, SA, and southern WA cold winters put a doubt in our mind about laying a new lawn.

A benefit in laying a new lawn in winter is lower water usage. In the cooler months, you will not have to irrigate your new lawn anywhere near as much compared with the warmer months. This is because the days are not hot enough to dry out your new turf. Whilst it still needs some water, you can virtually halve your water usage by laying turf in winter and still maintain a healthy lawn come spring. Just keep in mind, when laying a new lawn in winter the lawn will not root down properly until the weather warms up and it starts growing again. This doesn’t mean anything is wrong, and your lawn isn’t dying. It is simply sitting idle until it gets some warmer temperatures, so it can fully establish.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.