We love sharing our knowledge of lawns, providing advice on the different turf varieties available and explaining the different lawn care products and how best to look after your lawns. But who is Lawn Solutions Australia?

Lawn Solutions Australia

Lawn Solutions Australia, known as LSA for short, is a national network of locally owned, and mostly family operated turf businesses.

To become an LSA Member you must grow turf to a very high standard and be approved by the Australian Genetic Assurance Program for turf called AusGAP to grow the certified grasses that LSA Members supply.

Lawn Solutions Members grow the LSA range of lawn varieties including Sir Walter DNA Certified soft leaf buffalo, TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda or hybrid couch and Sir Grange Zoysia, plus some other grasses that are available specifically for different climates.

LSA Research

These turf grasses were introduced from LSA’s extensive turf research and development program. This program has the largest turf research facility in the Southern Hemisphere.

As part of this turf research program, we work with some of the world’s best turf breeders and scientists. We are wanting to find new and improved grasses that provide consumers better choices when looking for a new lawn variety.

Turf Trials

Thousands of grasses are bred and tested before a short list of elite performers. They are then put into further trials testing how they perform under wear, shade, and drought conditions.

If the grasses are successful in those trials, they will then undergo further trials. These involve herbicide resistance, establishment, and recovery speed and harvestability.

We trial these grasses in a range of climates right across Australia. This helps us see how they will handle the Aussie conditions. LSA will also compare them against existing turf varieties to see how they stand up.

We are looking for grasses that don’t just perform or survive. We are looking for new grasses that provide a point of difference, show exceptional qualities, new qualities unseen in the marketplace before. The cream of the crop.

It is not until or if we find this new grass that we will release to LSA Members for turf production.

The results of this program are represented in the successes achieved by each of the grasses released.

 

Sir Walter DNA Certified

Sir Walter DNA Certified soft leaf buffalo has led the way as the most successful commercial turf grass in Australia history. It has a great shade tolerance and is incredibly versatile across a range of climates.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is a somewhat newly introduced grass compared to Sir Walter, that has become the first and only turf grass in the world to be awarded the Smart Approved WaterMarkfor water efficiency and drought tolerance.

Bred out of the famous Tifton University in Georgia by the world’s best. TifTuf has shown superior qualities to that of over 30,000 different varieties. It is an absolute stand out when it comes to not just this variety of grass, but all grasses.

Sir Grange Zoysia

Sir Grange Zoysia – A grass like no other, Sir Grange can be kept at a range of heights. It’s a slow growing grass that is providing an alternative lawn option. This had never been available at this quality to consumers before.

Originally bred for golf courses, so you know it’s impressive. Sir Grange known as BRF Zeon Zoysia in the US, was used on the Olympics Golf Course is Rio.

We can’t wait to share with you some of the exciting new grasses we currently have in development.

 

---

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Now is a great time to fertilise your lawn and for the most part, is a pretty straight forward thing to do. Buy fertiliser, spread it out and depending on whether it’s granular or liquid, water in or dilute and apply. You have gone down the path of fertilising your lawn, so you have the best of intentions to start with which is great. But a few days later you check on your lawn and it’s not what you expected!

But where could it possibly have gone wrong? Here’s some of the usual mistakes…

Too much N

That’s N for nitrogen. Lawns love it and need it, but too much produces burnt grass and/or too much leaf growth, and not enough root growth.

What happens when you over fertilise your lawn?

Over fertilising your lawn will cause sudden plant growth, particularly leaf growth and thatch. The problem with this is that the roots won’t experience the same amount of rapid growth and will then be unable to supply the amount of water and nutrient that your grass needs.

As fertiliser is primarily made up of mineral salts, excessive fertilising will cause salts to build up in the soil making it difficult for water to be absorbed, which dries out your grass causing discolouration and possibly even plant death if bad enough.

Signs you may have over fertilised your lawn:

• Fertiliser burn on the grass leaf
• Browning leaftips and yellowing of lower leaves
• Darkened and weakened roots
• Salt like crust of fertiliser on the soil surface

Too erratic

The method of application is just as important as the fertiliser choice. Chucking fertiliser about willy-nilly produces lawn that looks like it’s maintained by a goat. Walking systematically back and forth across a lawn with a spreader is a good way to apply granular fertiliser. For liquids, a similar orderly approach can be adopted.

Too keen…

… can lead to ‘This fertiliser does nothing!’ Wrong. It’s probably not the fertiliser but the date of application. Apply fertiliser too early, that is, before soil is consistently above 14°C and good lawn food and good money goes to waste. Grass must be actively growing and out of its winter dormancy before it will benefit from a dose of fertiliser.

Applying fertiliser at the right time of year will ensure you get the most out of your lawn. Seasonal fertilising information

Too little water…

… can lead to burnt grass, due to the fertiliser. Once granular fertiliser is applied it must be well watered to solubilise it. This is one of the reasons those in the know fertilise just before a dump of rain. But be careful not to spread it out if a deluge of rain is anticipated, too much rain and the fertiliser will wash away, which doesn’t help your lawn and isn’t good for the environment.

While many fertilisers are similar, not all fertilisers are the same. Make sure you always follow the label instructions for the specific fertiliser that you are using.

What should I use for fertilising?

For fertilising we recommend using our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This fertiliser contains a combination of slow and fast release granules that will give your lawn a quick initial boost and will continue to feed the lawn for up to 12 weeks. This is a well-balanced fertiliser that contains all the essential nutrients your lawn needs to stay healthy and is suitable for all lawn varieties.

Exceed Liquid Fertiliser is a great liquid fertiliser option. Exceed will give your lawn a quick boost as it is absorbed by the leaf of the grass.

---

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Earthworm Castings

Have you noticed little mud balls sitting on your lawn recently? These mud balls or castings are an eyesore when there’s lots of them, particularly if you like to cut your lawn nice and short. We receive many enquiries relating to this annoying earthworm activity but it’s actually one lawn issue that we do not recommend treating. With changing conditions and a bit of patience, these castings will stop appearing and your lawn can reap the benefits of the earthworms presence in your soil.

Earthworms

These pleasant creatures are actually brilliant for your lawns health and they are busily working away beneath the surface. If earthworms are present in your soil, it means you have healthy soil that contains a good amount of organic material, so there is no reason to worry about them. If anything, you should be more worried if they are not present, as this will likely mean that your soil is lacking in nutrients and a good amount of organic matter.

These mounds can seem like a bit of a nuisance to deal with, but they are a sure sign of success. Here’s why:

Earthworm benefits

• Aeration of your soil
• Breaking down of thatch
• Increased decomposition
• Creation of usable nitrogen in the soil

Why would earthworms be considered a problem for your lawn?

Well the main reason you tend to notice that there are worms in your lawn is when they come up to the surface. During Spring and again in Autumn, or times of increased moisture, earthworms will rise to the surface and start leaving castings also known as mud balls. Castings are small mounds of worm excrement or digested organic matter, which is beneficial for your lawn. The only issue here is the appearance of these castings on top of your lawn, particularly if there are heaps of them.

What you can do about earthworm castings

• When the castings are dry, you can rake or brush them across the lawn. Much like an organic fertiliser this will then settle the castings into the roots and provide nutrition for your lawn.
• During wet periods when there is no break in rainfall, instead of waiting weeks for the castings to dry out, in some cases you can simply pick them up by hand. These castings are then best added to a compost bin.
• As worm activity is a sign of higher moisture levels, you can limit the amount of water your lawn is receiving to try and lessen their activity. When you do this, the worms will delve deeper into the soil in search of moisture. If rain and wet conditions have been persistent, then this can be particularly frustrating and the castings may stick around for an extended period. A very quick blast with a hose will help wash the castings in, lessoning their appearance on the lawn. The addition of even more water can obviously be somewhat counterproductive, so we only recommend doing this when castings are particularly bad and the additional water is minimal compared to the rain already being received.
• Mow your lawn on a higher setting to lessen the appearance of castings in your lawn.

Limiting worm activity

• Earth worms can rise to the surface to look for additional food sources like lawn clippings or leaves. By raking up leaves and mowing with a catcher you will reduce their food sources above the surface, letting them go back beneath the soil to look for food.
• Top dress your lawn with a high sand content top dressing. This will help lower the moisture levels closer to the surface, encouraging them to go down into the soil. This is best done in the warmer months while your lawn is actively growing.

So next time you see these little mounds in your lawn, try not to cringe – give yourself a pat on the back, reduce their appearance as best you can and enjoy the benefits they are providing to your soil and your lawn.

---

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Your aerating questions answered

What is aeration?

Perforation of the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grass roots.

Why do I need to aerate my lawn?

Aeration helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction. Soil compaction limits the amount of nutrients and water to penetrate the roots of your lawn.

What is solid tine aeration?

Solid tine aeration involves the punching of holes into the lawn with solid metal spikes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A smaller area of lawn can be aerated manually with aerating sandals (sandals with spikes that aerate the lawn as you walk) or a sturdy garden fork. Simply insert the fork into the lawn and wriggle it back and forth to fracture the soil profile. Aim for a spacing between the holes of around 8 – 10cm. In order to achieve adequate aeration, you may need to go over the area twice in a different direction each time.

You can hire specialised aerators if you have a large lawn. A spiked roller is also useful for lawn aeration for incorporating lime, gypsum, or coarse sand into the profile to improve drainage or pH.

Solid tine aeration does not involve the removal of soil, so if the ground is particularly hard and compacted, we recommend you look at core aeration.

What is core aeration?

Unlike regular aeration, where solid tines simply punch holes in the ground, core aeration removes a plug of soil from your lawn at the same time. Plug or core aerators do this by using hollow tines that puncture the surface and then pull the plugs from the ground on their way back out. The process of coring helps create more space in the soil for your lawn to breathe, absorb nutrient and increases soil permeability.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Core aeration can be done with manual hand tools but is much easier to undertake with a specialised coring machine. The primary reason we need to undertake aeration, core aeration in particular, is to alleviate issues related to compaction. 

For core aeration, we recommend using the Reel Solutions 3 Tyne Aerator.

When should I remove cores from my lawn, rather than solid tine?

When there is a lot of compaction or soil improvements are required. If an area suffers from heavy wear and is consistently showing signs of stress, this is where core aeration can be ideal. This is why golf courses and sporting fields undertake core aeration sometimes a couple of times a year. With the high amounts of foot traffic and wear, coring allows groundskeepers to keep their turf surfaces much healthier by creating more room for roots to grow. This combined with topdressing, helps to achieve a nice smooth putting or playing surface.

If you are looking for that perfect finish for your home lawn, then core aeration is certainly something you should also consider as part of your lawn maintenance program during spring. After coring your lawn is a great time to top dress with washed river sand. The sand will fill the holes and enable air and water to penetrate due to its free draining, open structure.

What if the ground is too hard?

A good deep watering a few hours or a day prior to aerating can help soften the soil making it easier for the tines to penetrate. It can also be a perfect time to aerate after you have experienced rain.

Think before you aerate!

Always remember when using either a solid or hollow tine to make sure that you are not doing so in an area where you are likely to hit any underground piping or irrigation. If you have an Automower with guide wire for the parameter, these too need to be avoided.

---

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo lawns have played an important role in over 1,000,000 Aussie backyards. The household name has stood the test of time, continuing to be one of the best choices for Australian homes. This grass has thrived in the Australian climate with its drought tolerance, low maintenance, soft touch, and high wear.

But where did Sir Walter DNA Certified come from? Let’s find out…

The Sir Walter Story

Brent Redman is a second-generation turf farmer from here in the Hunter Valley, NSW, and is the owner of Buchanan Turf Supplies. Brent began turf cutting in the late 70’s. By the mid-80’s he had purchased 20 acres here in the rich river flats of Maitland.

At the time buffalo was just buffalo and Brent ended up trialling 5 different varieties within a 2-acre plot.

Many turf farmers were having struggles with their buffalo, but Brent realised he was not facing these same troubles with one of the buffalo varieties he had growing on his farm and offered some samples to trial for their farms.

As this buffalo continued to grow on Brent’s farm, a small area was found to be growing which was even better, maintaining a greener winter colour, a healthier root system and it was taking over the existing buffalo.

Brent noticed the potential of this new variety and began propagating the grass to protect the purity and integrity of the variety. A variety which would soon become known as Sir Walter.

Where did the Sir Walter name come from?

This grass was named to reflect the qualities that the grass possesses. Initially the acronym ‘WALT’ was created, standing for ‘Winter Active, Low Thatch’.

It was also decided to add a reference to the significant environmental benefits of the grass, with the addition of the ER for ‘Environmentally Responsible’.

A grass this good needed to be anointed, with a symbolic ‘knighting’ and the Sir prefix added to honour the exceptional qualities of the grass.

S I R
W inter
A ctive
L ow
T hatch
E nvironmentally
R esponsible

The rest is history as they say, with it being expanded and produced right across Australia. Sir Walter today is an ‘Iconically Aussie’ brand and is undoubtedly the most successful commercial turf variety in Australian history.

As a result of this success deception and substitution by competitors has occurred. Many varieties over the years have claimed to be ‘just like’, ‘same as’ or ‘bred from’.

How do I know the Sir Walter I am buying is genuine?

Sir Walter supplied by accredited and licensed suppliers is now known as Sir Walter DNA Certified. This extension of the name was developed to provide the assurance to consumers that the Sir Walter they are buying is DNA tested.

This turf matches the original breeder Sir Walter plant material bred at Brent Redmans farm developed over 20 years ago. Only Lawn Solutions Australia turf producers can provide this ‘Original Breeder’ guarantee.

If you want genuine Sir Walter, validated by DNA testing, look for Sir Walter DNA Certified from accredited suppliers with the Original Breeder Guarantee from Mr Redman.

---

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.