Author: Apex Digital

What Should I Top Dress My Lawn With?

Posted on by Apex Digital

What should I top dress my lawn with?

When looking to top-dress your lawn you first have to ask yourself what it is you are trying to achieve. In most cases, top dressing is undertaken to correct poor soil preparation, improve deteriorated soil quality or permeability, or fill in low spots and correct uneven areas in the lawn. If your lawn is well fertilised, healthy and even, then it’s likely you don’t need to worry about top dressing.

Top dressing brings many benefits to a lawn that is looking a little lacklustre, including helping to reduce the accumulation of dead grass clippings and stems, known as ‘thatch’. It helps to increase nutrient retention, improves drainage and increases disease and pest resistance.

Top dressing should only be completed during the growing season (this is when you need to mow your lawn weekly) and the earlier in the season the better. Generally, late spring to early summer is best.

Topdressing to Improve Levels

For a top-dressing material for level improvement, we always like to use washed plasterers’ sand. It doesn’t compact quite as hard as brickies sand. It is generally easier to screed and level due to the lower clay and silt content and reduces the likelihood of the surface crusting and becoming hydrophobic.

If you are wanting a really flat lawn surface and intend to mow your turf variety quite short, then straight sand is the go. Just be sure that within your broader lawn maintenance schedule that you include the addition of fertilisers and nutrients that your lawn needs. Lawns that are cut shorter will generally require additional inputs to help them perform at an optimum level.

Topdressing to Improve Soil Profile

Your lawn needs a firm base that allows water movement downwards and allows for water retention, so the turf roots system can develop and establish. The aim is to promote a healthy root system that will protect the turf from weather conditions such as droughts and winter frost.

A good soil base for most turf varieties should consist of the following:

  • Washed river sand, medium to coarse particles – some % of clay is present which helps to compact and form a base.
  • Some heavier soil is generally added which helps to hold moisture and mixed with the sand creates a free-flowing profile for water movement.
  • A composted material is then added – again generally this can be a green waste, chicken or animal manure and some natural nutrients to help balance your pH levels.

This is where topsoil or sandy loam topdressing soils are necessary. If your lawn is lacklustre, compacted and lacking in nutrients, then you are best looking at applying a sandy loam. This is recommended for most lawn situations. These top-dressing soils are much the same as the soil or turf underlay that is spread prior to laying turf. These usually consist of a blend of 80% washed sand, combined with 20% black soil or organic material. If you have sandy soil, a higher proportion of organic material is a good idea.

It is also recommended to aerate your lawn prior to spreading topsoil, specifically core aeration. Removing cores from your lawn will create a space for the new topsoil material to fall into, helping it get deeper into the soil base where it is needed.

How to Lay Turf – Preparation and Underlay

How to Top Dress

Topdressing should only be applied at no more than 5-10mm in thickness at a time. The sand or sandy loam should be rubbed in evenly using a lawn level bar, working the sand down into the turf thatch layer.

Preparing your turf for topdressing – if possible, apply a general-purpose fertiliser, wetting agent and water in well a couple of days prior. This will give your turf the growth required to surge through the topdressing sand.

For more information on top dressing click here.

Need fertiliser and wetting agents to assist your lawn in recovery?

lawn fertiliser

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

The Right Way To Fertiliser Your Lawn

Posted on by Apex Digital

Fertilising your lawn the right way can help improve its appearance while keeping it healthy. While fertilising is quite simple, there is a bit more to it than simply chucking it out or spraying it on.

When To Fertilise

When fertilising, you want to make sure you are applying it at the right time of year to get the most out of your fertiliser. Most common warm-season varieties like buffalo, couch, kikuyu, and zoysia love a feed around mid-spring when the lawn starts to grow again after winter. Another feed in summer around Australia day. Then again in Autumn after Easter or Anzac Day to help give the lawn a boost heading into the cooler months.

There are 2 main types of fertilisers on the market, granular and liquid.

fertilise lawn

Granular Fertilisers

Granular fertilisers are an easy and popular option to use. These fertilisers do take longer to be absorbed but will usually release nutrients over a longer period.

Before application, best to measure out your lawn size to ensure you apply it at the correct application rate. Then check your fertilisers label rate and safety instructions. With granular fertilisers, we recommend using a fertiliser spreader to apply the granules evenly or use a smooth motion when spreading by hand. When applying fertilisers, the most important thing is to evenly cover the area as best you can. We recommend walking up and back, then across in the opposite direction to get the best coverage. Keep an eye out how wide you are spreading the granules out to avoid doubling up on application in areas.

Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser is a professional blend of both slow and fast release granules containing all the essential nutrients and trace elements for all lawn types. It has been designed to provide the best results when applied at a rate of 20 to 25 grams per square metre. To calculate your coverage, simply multiply your lawn area (m2) by this rate (20 to 25g).

lawn fertiliser

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Liquid Fertilisers

Liquid fertilisers work faster than granular fertilisers as are applied directly to the leaf of the lawn and are absorbed quickly. This helps give your lawn a short boost.

Again, before application measure out your lawn size and apply as per your fertiliser’s application rate. When applying your liquid fertiliser, spray your fertiliser evenly by walking in an organised fashion to achieve an even application. Keep an eye out how wide your sprayer is to avoid doubling up on application in areas.

Exceed Liquid Fertiliser is a premium, professional foliar fertiliser designed to bring out the best in any lawn. It can be applied using either a knapsack sprayer, a watering can, or a 2L hose on the sprayer. When applying Exceed with a knapsack use 200-400ml with 7lt-10lt of water for 100m2.

exceed liquid fertiliser

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Irrigation

After applying your fertiliser, give any hard surfaces a sweep or blow to remove any fertiliser that may have been applied before irrigation. This will help avoid staining to your hard surfaces.

After clearing your hard surfaces, it is time for the final step, watering in your fertiliser. This is an important step to help avoid burning on your lawn. Not all fertilisers need to be watered in, but the majority do. If you are unsure, read your product’s label or check with the product manufacturer. To water in your fertiliser, you can use a hose and sprinkler or time your application just before the rain. One thing to be careful of when applying just before rain is that you are not going to get too much rain as it can wash the fertiliser straight out of the lawn. Around 5-10ml of rain is perfect.

Over the following weeks, you will be able to reap the benefits of a healthy lawn.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Why Regular Mowing Is Important

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Why regular mowing is important

Sometimes there’s always something better to do than spend a portion of your weekend mowing the lawn.

There are those that are die-hard lawn fanatics who love mowing regularly and those that just simply find the thought of having to mow the lawn all the time as a massive annoyance.

If conditions have been ideal, you might be cursing the dreaded growth rate of your lawn. During times of rain, combined with high humidity, you might also find that you have been unable to get out and mow for weeks, even if you wanted to.

mowing

If your lawn is growing rapidly, it is important that you get out there and get on top of it regularly. Just remember it’s only a short amount of time before it will slow down and you can get back to the odd mow here and there when it needs it.

 

Here’s why you should keep to a regular routine and mow your lawn when it needs it.

  1. Consistent mowing heights allow for consistent nutrients within the grass, helping your lawn look the same throughout.
  2. Leaving your lawn too long can block out the sun from reaching the undergrowth and can lead to dying off from below.
  3. Letting your lawn get too long actually ends up causing you to mow your lawn more often! When you do finally mow, you are taking off more of the leaf which will stress your lawn. Once the lawn gets quite long, don’t take more than a third of the leaf off at a time. You have to mow off a third, wait a few days and then mow again to get it back to the optimal height. So, sticking to the one-third rule is extremely important in maintaining a healthy lawn.
  4. The mower may have difficulty cutting down the tall grass even with an increased blade height, so it will be a much more difficult task.
  5. A lawn that isn’t mowed regularly to the recommended height is often less healthy than a manicured lawn.
  6. A lawn full of weak grass is more susceptible to disease, pests and weeds.
  7. Mowing your lawn encourages lateral growth. It’s this lateral growth that helps your lawn become thicker.

By sticking to a regular mowing and lawn maintenance routine, your lawn will be healthier and be less likely to develop problems that will only cost you more time and money in the long run.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

What Are Plant Growth Regulators?

Posted on by Apex Digital

Stadium quality turf with PGR’s

We know many of you are always looking for ways to take your lawns to the next level. One way to do this is by using what the turf professionals use, Plant Growth Regulators. Used on golf courses and sports grounds across the world, Plant Growth Regulators known as PGRs, are now available in an economical size to use in your own back garden.

In this article we focus on the benefits of plant growth regulators, Primo Maxx by Syngenta specifically, that can help your lawn perform like stadium-quality turf.

What is a Plant Growth Regulator or PGR?

A PGR is an innovative solution that influences a plant’s growth and development.

Recent types of PGRs, such as Syngenta’s turf growth regulator Primo Maxx are formulated as a microemulsion concentrate that quickly enters the leaves and shoots before systemically moving throughout the entire plant.

Better looking lawns, faster:

  • Reduces grass growth: reduced mowing.
  • Less bare patches: improved aesthetic.
  • Greener grass.
  • The best-looking edges with less work.

Once absorbed, the active ingredient works to temporarily block the plant’s ability to produce a growth hormone called Gibberellic Acid. This suppresses the plant’s vertical growth while allowing normal processes like photosynthesis and respiration to continue.

Energy is diverted into the plant’s lateral growth, resulting in smaller and finer leaves, increased tillering, and a larger, deeper root mass. The turf becomes denser with a more vibrant colour.

Save water with PGRs

Regular PGR application ticks a lot of sustainability boxes, the biggest one being greener grass with less water requirements.

PGRs like Primo Maxx improve water management efficiency by encouraging the stomates (pores) of a plant to close for longer periods, which slows down the rate of water lost through transpiration.

Control growth and mow less

Slowing down turf growth also decreases the need to mow, which in turn reduces waste and makes maintenance practices far more sustainable. Applying Primo Maxx to turfgrass effectively holds back vertical grass growth within 3 to 4 weeks of initial application.

Stand up to turf stress and extreme heat

Increased temperatures add to turf stress in all situations, resulting in an undesirable loss of colour, turf density and quality.

Build a tougher lawn:

  • Increased root density: drought resistance & improved lawn resilience
  • Increased density: improved shade tolerance
  • Increased durability: hardier under children and pet use

The main reason is that PGR applications like Primo Maxx increase the level of bioactive cytokinins in the plant, improving its tolerance to heat and drought-induced stress. This allows the turf to recover faster from drought effects, extreme heat, or stress from high traffic and heavy play.

PGR TIP:

The right application is always key to achieving good results with a PGR, so it’s important to track the growth rate of your turfgrass alongside the rate of PGR application. When using Primo Maxx for the first time leave an area to the side untreated so you can compare the results of your application.

What does Primo Maxx do?

Primo Maxx forces the grass to grow thicker instead of taller. The lateral stems become fuller as the colour of the lawn becomes a nicer shade of green. Your lawn will not only be lush and attractive, but it will also have what it needs to stay that way.

plant growth regulators

Primo Maxx Promotes deeper, stronger roots

Instead of using energy on growth, it uses it on creating healthier roots

Primo Maxx Improves water use efficiency

The grass makes the most of the water it receives, whether rain or irrigation, less water use

Primo Maxx helps turf tolerate shade

Shady areas naturally grow thin; Primo assist with this.

Primo Maxx creates stronger, denser turf

Stronger, denser turf resists wear and disease better and helps suppress weeds.

  • Promotes denser, healthier turf that is better able to withstand a variety of stresses including heat, drought, diseases and traffic.
  • Slows the production of gibberellic acid, a plant hormone that promotes cell elongation. Vertical shoot growth is slowed, while lateral and below-ground growth of rhizomes, stolons, tillers and roots is stimulated.
  • Reduces mowing by up to 50%.
  • Is claimed to suppress Winter grass growth.
  • Cuts mowing in half, reduces seed head production, fertilizer use, watering and clipping yield, makes lawns look great with half the work or for less than 3 cents a square metre.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Summer Grass Weeds

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Summer Grass Weeds

Not all weeds can be easily treated with common broadleaf herbicides. Some, mainly summer grass weeds, require a specific herbicide product for treatment.

In this article, we talk about summer grass, paspalum and crabgrass/crowsfoot.

Summer Grass

Digitaria Sanguinalis and Digitaria Cilaris

summer grass

Summer grass is an annual weed that appears in the warmer months of the year. It will then go to seed into autumn where it can emerge over several years. There are two varieties of Summer grass that are very similar in appearance. If left untreated, it can grow as high as 30cm and 1m wide, thrive in conditions of high temperatures and high humidity.

Description

Summer grass is an annual weed that has soft hairy leaves that grow close to the ground in clusters. The grassroots at the node (joint) and the sheathes of the leaf are usually purple-tinged in colour at the base. Because Summer grass spreads by seed, it is extremely important that you act before this happens.

Paspalum

Paspalum Dilatatum

This is a perennial grass weed that is found mostly in the South Eastern states of Australia.

It will start out as clumps and then will spread throughout sparse and poor performing lawns.

Description

This weed has a purple tinge at the base of broad grass leaves that stem from a central crown. It primarily grows throughout the warmer months from late spring to early autumn. This weed spreads through the transportation of sticky seeds. These seeds easily adhere themselves to pets, shoes and objects before falling off in a new location.

Crowsfoot or Crabgrass

Eleusine Indica or Digitaria (Finger-grasses)

crowsfoot

Crowsfoot is known by many names, but one it sometimes goes by here in Australia is Crabgrass.

Description 

Crowsfoot grass is a summer annual that grows in easy to identify tufts, staying fairly flat to the ground with almost white flat sheathed stems and smooth strap-like leaves.

This weed is difficult to control as can tolerate low mowing and will thrive in nutrient-deprived and compacted soil conditions. It will begin to germinate in the soil when temperatures reach above 15°C and can grow extremely quickly once active.

Seed heads appear usually from late spring or early summer. These seed heads can have as many as ten spikelets on each long stem. In an unhealthy lawn, if left to seed and spread, Crowsfoot will quickly infiltrate right through the entire lawn. Crowsfoot is commonly found throughout most Australian states including Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia and the Northern Territory.

Prevention

The best way to control these types of weeds is to maintain a healthy lawn where they are unlikely to infiltrate and spread. Being proactive and removing them as soon as they appear and before they go to seed will be the key to preventing them from spreading out of control. It is always easier to control weeds from the outset rather than to try to remove them once they get out of hand.

By choosing a suitable lawn species for your area, keeping it healthy and well maintained and at the right mowing height for your chosen variety, you’ll have a leg up on any potential weed invasions.

Treatment

Hand removal

All of the above grass weeds can be removed by hand, but they will continue to re-emerge in sparse unhealthy lawn areas. Getting your grass to spread and thicken will make it difficult for these weeds to infiltrate. Make sure you dig underneath the crown, below soil level and remove the entire root of the plant. Be careful not to spread any seeds during the process. If you act quickly you should be able to eradicate them fairly easily from your lawn this way.

Post-Emergent Herbicides

If these grass weeds have spread throughout your lawn and are out of control, you may need to look at applying a selective herbicide.

Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer and herbicides formulated with the active DSMA will control paspalum, crowsfoot/crabgrass and summer grass.

These herbicides can be easily mixed in a pressure sprayer, with the addition of a surfactant or wetting agent like Sprayfix or a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to ensure it adheres better to the leaf. For best results, spray the weeds when they are actively growing during the warmer months. Repeated applications may be required in order to fully eradicate them from your lawn. Make sure you adhere to the application rates and instructions on the product label.

*For kikuyu, buffalo lawns and QLD Blue Couch, it is advised to only spot spray and not spray the entire lawn as it can cause harm to your grass as well.

Due to a supply shortage of DSMA across the industry, many garden centres and stores have no longer been able to get stock of these herbicides.

Another option is to treat the individual weed tufts with a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (Round Up or Zero). You will need to make sure you do so extremely carefully as it will kill everything it comes in contact with. The safest way is to use a small paintbrush or weed wand and carefully brush the glyphosate only onto the invading weeds leaf.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

A really effective way of stopping Crowsfoot/Crabgrass and Summer Grass from germinating in your lawn again next year is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert.

oxafert

These herbicides act by stopping weeds from germinating from the soil in the first place. In order for them to work effectively, you need to apply them before emergence. For many of these weeds, this would mean you would be best applying it in early to mid-spring, but they can be applied at any time.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

How to Calibrate Your Sprayer

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When using specialised lawn care products on your lawn, calibrating your sprayer is important to ensure the correct amount of product is applied to your lawn size. In this blog, we look at how to calibrate your sprayer and how to apply a few different commercial grade lawn care products.

Important Note Before Reading:

When applying each of these products, please ensure you are wearing the correct PPE for each product, as stated on the product label.

When using these types of products, always read the label before application.

Different types of sprayers

There is a wide range of different types of sprayers that are on the market. Backpack sprayers are better suited for larger areas as they usually hold a larger amount of water and can be easier to use when spraying for longer. Other handheld sprayers vary in size and design are better suited for medium to small lawn sizes.

As every different type of sprayer and brand of sprayer will disperse water at different rates calibrating your sprayer is important, especially when applying commercial-grade products.

backpack sprayer

Why is calibrating your chemical sprayer important?

When applying products to your lawn it is important to ensure you are applying the correct amount of product for your lawn size. This will help avoid either not spraying enough or too much product to your lawn.

How to calibrate your sprayer

To calibrate your sprayer, you will need to find out how much water your sprayer takes to spray 100 m2 and add the label rate of the product to that quantity of water.

To find out how much water your sprayer takes to spray 100m2, best to spray a 10m2 hard surface like concrete and multiply it by 10. From this you can determine that if it’s going to take say 5L of water for you to cover 100sqm, then that’s the required amount of water you need to mix the product with.

When calibrating your sprayer, it is also important to walk at the same speed as this will also affect your calibration.

Best to check your sprayer’s nozzle regularly for any blockages and wear and tear as this can also affect your sprayer.

Applying Primo Maxx (Plant Growth Regulator)

When applying Primo Maxx, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

For Buffalo, Common Couch and Hybrid Couch add 10 to 40mL of Primo Maxx per 100m2. For Kikuyu add 20 to 80mL of Primo Maxx per 100m2.

Please have a look at the Primo Maxx Label for further information.

primo maxx

Applying Monument Liquid Herbicide

When applying Monument Liquid Herbicide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

The application rates do change for Monument depending on what weed you are wanting to target. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rates for the weed you are targeting. The below details how you can convert mL/ha to mL/100m2.

150 mL/ha (for Nutgrass and Mullumbimby Couch only)

Therefore, 150 mL per 10 000 m2

Therefore, 1.5 mL per 100 m2

Then add 1.5mL of Monument (for Nutgrass and Mullumbimby Couch only) to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.

Please have a look at the Monument Liquid Herbicide Label for further information.

monument herbicide

Applying Heritage Maxx Systemic Fungicide

When applying Heritage Maxx, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

For Heritage Maxx, the label rate is:

6L/ha

Therefore, 6L per 10 000 m2

Therefore, 60 mL per 100 m2

Then add 60mL of Heritage Maxx to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100m2.

Please have a look at the Heritage Maxx Label for further information.

heritage maxx

Applying Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide

When applying Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

The application rates do change for Duke depending on what weed you are wanting to target. Please have a look at the label for the correct application rates for the weed you are targeting. The below details how you can convert g/ha to g/100 m2.

150g/ha (for Winter Grass and Ryegrass only)

Therefore, 150g per 10 000 m2

Therefore, 1.5g per 100 m2

It is best to mix the herbicide with a small amount of water first to ensure the product is properly dissolved and then add to your sprayer.

Then add 1.5g of Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide to your calibrated sprayer to treat 100 m2.

Please have a look at the Proforce Duke 100WG Herbicide Label for further information.

Applying Agador Insecticide

When applying Agador Insecticide, firstly calibrate your sprayer.

The application rate for Agador does change for the pest which you were wanting to target.

For Couch Mites use 10 to 20 mL per 100m2. For Ring Nematode and Sting Nematode use 20mL per 100m2.

Please have a look at the Agador Label for further information.

agador

Have a ColourGuard RTU and want to use it in a knapsack?

If you have a ColourGuard hose on bottle and are wanting to apply it through a sprayer, use half the 2L bottle of ColourGuard and apply with 3.5L of water. This will then be able to cover up to 100m2.

When applying each of these products, please ensure you are wearing the correct PPE for each product, as stated on the product label.

When using these types of products, always read the label before application.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Crowsfoot (Eleusine Indica)

Posted on by Apex Digital

Crowsfoot (Eleusine Indica)

Crowsfoot is known by many names, but one of the most common it goes by here in Australia is Crabgrass.

Crowsfoot, as its name suggests, has a spiked flower with a similar appearance to that of a crow’s foot.

Description:

Crowsfoot grass is a summer annual that grows in easy to identify tufts. It stays fairly flat to the ground with almost white flat sheathed stems and smooth strap-like leaves.

Crowsfoot grass is difficult to control weeds that can tolerate low mowing and will thrive in nutrient-deprived and compacted soil conditions. It will begin to germinate in the soil when temperatures reach above 15°C and can grow extremely quickly once active.

Seed heads appear usually from late spring or early summer. These seed heads can have as many as ten spikelets on each long stem. In an unhealthy lawn, if left to seed and spread, Crowsfoot will quickly infiltrate right through the entire lawn. Crowsfoot is commonly found throughout most Australian states including Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia and the Northern Territory.

crowsfoot

How to remove crowsfoot

The best way to remove crowsfoot is to chip out by hand. Make sure when doing so that you carefully remove the entire plant and don’t spread any seeds during the process.

Treating Crowsfoot with a selective herbicide can be difficult as many herbicides will kill your lawn variety as well.

Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer and herbicides formulated with the active DSMA will control crowsfoot. It can be easily mixed in a pressure sprayer, with the addition of a surfactant or wetting agent to ensure it adheres better to the leaf. For best results, spray the crowsfoot when it is actively growing during the warmer months. Repeated applications may be required in order to fully eradicate it from your lawn. Make sure you adhere to the application rates on the side of the product.

*For kikuyu, buffalo lawns and QLD Blue Couch, it is best to only spot spray the crowsfoot and not the entire lawn as it can cause harm to your grass as well.

Due to a supply shortage of DSMA across the industry, many garden centres and stores have no longer been able to get stock of these herbicides.

Another option is to treat the individual weed tufts with a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (Round Up or Zero). You will need to make sure you do so extremely carefully as it will kill everything it comes in contact with. The safest way is to use a small paintbrush or weed wand and carefully brush the glyphosate only onto the crowsfoot leaf.

How to prevent crowsfoot

The best way to control Crowsfoot is to maintain a healthy lawn where it is unlikely to infiltrate and spread. Being proactive and removing it as soon as it appears and before it goes to seed will be the key to preventing it from spreading out of control.

Another way of preventing the seed from germinating is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert in early spring. An application in Autumn will also help to prevent the germination of winter weeds as well.

oxafert

 

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

How To Create A Home Putting Green

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Are you a keen sports enthusiast and want to practice your putting skills at home? We have put together a couple of tips on how you can create a putting green at home!

Finding the right space

Firstly, check out your front or back yard. You will need an area of between 20-40 square meters that is free from shade.

Turf underlay

Construction is very important. If you get the soil profile correct the green will thrive.

Mark out the area and design of the putting green, remember it doesn’t have to be a circle or rectangle, your design will be unique for your yard. Once marked out remove current turf or vegetation from this area, it is then advisable to remove around 100mm of soil. The growing media for putting green is USGA Sand (high quality, refined sand) or similar.

Then bring in enough USGA Sand or similar to replace 100mm removed plus another 100mm. This extra soil can be used to shape your surface for ball roll and to make the putting green higher than the rest of your yard. After this, then incorporate organic material into the top 50mm of your surface (composted chicken or cow manure is ideal).

Once you are happy with the shape and you have levelled around the edges to blend into the yard you are ready to start thinking about the next stage.

putting green

Choosing your putting green grass

The next step in creating your home putting green is to do some research on grasses that are suitable for putting surfaces, more so in the climate, you live in. Visit your local golf course and ask what varieties they use for their putting greens. Most golf courses use either bentgrass, couch, or zoysia. Some of the newer zoysia varieties are really an excellent option – less pressure from disease, fewer nutrient inputs, and superfine leaf blades for putting. Some of these zoysia varieties are Trinity Zoysia and Primo Zoysia.

golf ball

Planting your putting green

Ideally, you want to plant your green from sprigs or stolons (small pieces of grass that will grow and spread across the surface). To plant your green, you will need around 15-25kg of sprigs to cover a 50 square meter area. Once evenly spread across the surface slightly rake into the soil profile. It is important to keep these sprigs damp for the next 2 weeks or until you start to see green shoots and taking root. It is suggested to use a granular turf starter type of fertiliser weekly for the first 4-10 weeks. The NPK of an ideal turf starter fertiliser is around 12-10-9. At the 6-week mark, you can apply a granular organic fertiliser that will help with the same beneficial humus and moisture-holding capacity.

putting green

The estimated growth in the period will be around 12 -14 weeks based on the timing of planting (spring is ideal). Once you have 50% coverage it would be recommended to start mowing just to remove 1/3 of the leaf blade. This will encourage the grass to grow vertically and cover across the ground. At the 90% coverage stage, it is recommended to top dress with the same sand used in construction. This will help to finish off the surface and give a smooth putting surface.

putting green

Mowing

When mowing your home putting green, we recommend using a cylinder mower to help get a better cut. The more you mow your green, the more the playing surface will tighten and the smoother it will get.

cylinder mower

Fertilising

It is recommended you fertilise the green 3 times a year, once in April, September, and January. It is ideal to use greens grade fertiliser (low cut turf fertiliser) with an NPK 21-1-9. This can be purchased from a professional turf supply company.

With regular mowing and maintenance work, you’re at home putting green will help you up to your golfing skills ready for the course.

home putting green

 

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Why It’s Important To Aerate Your Lawn

Posted on by Apex Digital

Your grass needs space, below ground, to take in air, nutrients and water. Your lawns’ roots need to ‘breathe’.

Ultimately, aerating your lawn and allowing it to breathe benefits you. A healthy lawn can drop the temperature of your home’s surroundings, saving energy costs. But, aerating also helps to protect your lawn against a lot of common problems due to compaction: drainage issues, bare patches, weeds, dryness, fungal disease, fairy ring …

What is aeration?

Perforation of the soil to allow air, water and nutrients to penetrate the grassroots.

 

Why do I need to aerate my lawn?

Aeration helps the roots grow deeply and produce a stronger, more vigorous lawn. The main reason for aerating is to alleviate soil compaction. Soil compaction limits the number of nutrients and water to penetrate the roots of your lawn.

 

How do I aerate my lawn? 

A smaller area of lawn can be aerated manually with aerating sandals (sandals with spikes that aerate the lawn as you walk) or a sturdy garden fork. Simply insert the fork into the lawn and wriggle it back and forth to fracture the soil profile. Aim for a spacing between the holes of around 8 – 10cm. In order to achieve adequate aeration, you may need to go over the area twice in a different direction each time.

aerationaerating

You can hire specialised aerators if you have a large lawn. A spiked roller is also useful for lawn aeration for incorporating lime, gypsum, or coarse sand into the profile to improve drainage or pH.

Unlike regular aeration, where solid tines simply punch holes in the ground, core aeration removes a plug of soil from your lawn at the same time. You can read more about core aeration here.

should I core my lawn
PULLING CORES FROM YOUR LAWN CAN BE BENEFICIAL TO INCREASE OXYGEN, NUTRIENT AND WATER PENETRATION TO THE ROOTS OF YOUR LAWN.

How often should I aerate my lawn?

Different soil types require more frequent aeration. Clay soil compacts easily and should be aerated at least once a year. You can aerate a sandy lawn once a year, or once every two years. In harsher climates, aerating twice a year will encourage turf growth and health.

In areas where there is a high amount of foot traffic, pets or even cars on the lawn, compaction is a common problem. Regular aerating will be important to ensure the ground doesn’t become too hard and help the soil to breathe and the grass to spread.

When should I aerate?

The best time to aerate warm-season grasses, such as soft-leaf buffalo, couch, kikuyu and zoysia are during spring and summer while they are actively growing. You can aerate at any time of the year, but if you do so in the cooler months just keep in mind the grass won’t cover over the aerated holes as it is dormant. Always try to aerate at the same time you are fertilising or performing any other major lawn care operation such as dethatching and top dressing. It is also a fantastic time for aeration after rainfall, as it will make this process much easier.

For cool-season lawns, such as fescue and ryegrass, the same principle applies. With proper care and a lot of water, cool-season lawns can grow all year (with the exception of very cold climates) so you can aerate all year round. Again, keep in mind the absolute best times are when you fertilise or perform any other lawn care and the following rainfall, so soil moisture levels are high.

Aerating is often overlooked, but its importance in allowing air, water and nutrients to get into the soil cannot be overstated.

After aerating in spring is a perfect time to fertilise your lawn.

Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser

lawn fertiliser

Test your pH 

After aerating, it is a good time to test your pH and take action if required. pH affects your lawn’s ability to absorb the minerals and nutrients needed, in order to thrive. A pH that’s less than ideal can mean your lawn isn’t absorbing the minerals and nutrients it needs.

The ideal pH range for your lawn is somewhere between 6 and 7. You can purchase a pH testing kit here at the Lawn Care Store.

If your pH is not where you need it, now is also the time to apply soil additives and conditioners to improve your soil type. A few additives and conditioners are listed below. For the best advice talk to your local Lawn Solutions Centre or closest Lawn Solutions Australia Turf Grower for specialised knowledge.

PH Testing Lime for Healthy Lawns

Tips to improve your soil type:

Lime (calcium carbonate) helps raise pH and neutralise acidic soil.

Gypsum is calcium sulphate dihydrate and helps break down clay soils.

Fertiliser – Because aerating allows nutrients to better penetrate, straight after aerating is a perfect time to fertilise your lawn as well.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Water Saving Tips For The Lawn And Garden

Posted on by Apex Digital

With the warmer weather well on the way, many of us will start to use more water for our lawns, gardens, and pools. By making sure we are smartly using water, your garden can still thrive, while reducing your water usage!

Only water your garden when it needs it

Regular rainfall is usually enough to meet your lawn and gardens water requirements. If there is an extended period without rainfall your lawn may need water. Your lawn will start to show signs that it needs water when the leaf curls up, is wilting, or losing colour.

Water for longer less frequently

If your garden is needing water, water for longer less frequently. By watering your garden and lawn less frequently for longer, the roots of the plant will be encouraged to grow deeper into the soil base. This will help increase the drought tolerance of your lawn and plants.

grass sprinkler

Water early morning to prevent heat-related evaporation

The best time to water your lawn and garden is early morning when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat-related evaporation. Watering in the mornings is also best to help stop fungal diseases from growing in your lawn and on your plants.

Rainwater tank

Rainwater tanks are a great way to save water. By having your tank collect water from the roof of your house you can have a handy supply of water to use in and around the garden or top up your pool or spa. These tanks can save the rainwater and is store it ready for you to use. There is a range of tank sizes available to suit all houses.

water tanks

Use leak-free hoses with a trigger hose nozzle

Make sure your hose is free from any leaks. A quick tightening of a loose hose connection is often the fix. If the hose or fitting is looking a bit worse for wear it might be time to invest in a new hose or connection. Trigger hose nozzles allow you to have complete control when watering. This helps you avoid spraying out water to surfaces like concrete and footpaths.

Choose hardy drought-proof plants

When looking at putting in new plants, look at plants that are well suited to your natural environment that won’t need much additional care once installed. This can help reduce the amount of watering your plants need.

For drought-resistant turf, you can’t look further than TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda. TifTuf has a superior drought tolerance compared to other turf varieties. It is the only variety to have the Smart Approved WaterMark. This grass can take root in less than 7 days during the growing season, reducing the amount of water needed during establishment. Once established, TifTuf can better withstand longer periods without water than other varieties.

greener environments

Mulch in garden beds to reduce evaporation

Did you know that mulch can reduce evaporation by up to 70%? Mulch also helps stop weeds from growing in your garden beds! Wood chips, pine milch and hard-bark mulch are best for stopping evaporation.

Use mats and covers for pools and spas

Pool mats and covers are great at helping reduce evaporation. Evaporation will usually occur early in the evening when the air cools down and the water is still warm. Simple leaf cover pool blankets can reduce around 40% of evaporation and thicker blankets can reduce evaporation from around 90%. These can help reduce the number of times throughout the year you need to top up the pool with water.

Make sure your sprinkler goes on your garden

When putting out a sprinkler in the garden, watch over the area to ensure the sprinkler is reaching where you want it to go and not out any concrete paths or on paved areas. This will help increase the amount of water your lawn and garden receive while stopping water from running off.

 

sprinkler

 

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.