Author: Apex Digital

Clover (Trifolium)

• Clover is not that much of an undesirable weed and can be easily managed in most cases.
• In some parts of the country, clover is intentionally added to lawns to assist with drought.
• Keeping your lawn’s nutrient and nitrogen levels at the right rate will reduce clover infiltration.

Clover may be a lucky charm, but you may not be so lucky to have it infest your lawn. It is a common lawn-weed and as far as weeds go on the ease-of-eradication-scale; clover is simple to control in most cases.

How To Identify Clover

Clover can be easily identified in your lawn by its oval-shaped leaves. It will commonly grow in 3 leaflets (four if you’re lucky!) with a white circular marking across all of the leaves. Clover will have a creeping stem that touches the ground and will produce either a white or pink flower depending on the species.

Treatment

There are a number of broadleaf weed and clover specific selective weed sprays like Amgrow Bin Die and All Purpose Weed Control that will do the job relatively quickly. Amgrow Bin Die comes in a concentrated form and will need to be mixed up with water in a knapsack or pressure sprayer. All-Purpose Weed Control has an easy-to-use clip-on hose attachment.

Nitrogen 

In some cases, a higher nitrogen fertiliser program will more than likely prove just as effective.

Clover is one of those legume plants, like beans and lucerne or alfalfa. It will draw nitrogen from the air and stores it in its roots. As the roots die back, the nitrogen is replenished into the soil but where there is sufficient nitrogen in your soil to keep your lawn healthy, the clover struggles to survive. In most cases when you see clover growing in your lawn it means that there isn’t enough nitrogen. Lawns love nitrogen, while clover hates it, so increasing the fertiliser on your lawn is a must if you want to send a clear message of clearing your lawn. Use what they call a high NPK fertiliser, one that has high levels of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium – something like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser.

Read the label for the best advice for the rate you should apply and be sure to water in well. Following one or more applications your lawn should look in great condition with less clover content. Keeping your lawn’s nitrogen levels in check by fertilising it will prevent clover from coming back. Some people chose to live with a smattering of clover on their lawn. Depending on your grass type, the two may co-exist without being too much of an eyesore. Mowing the clover back will help keep it under control to some degree but won’t prevent it from coming back. Clover has no issues with being mowed nice and short, but your grass doesn’t love it. Cutting your lawn short will be appreciated by the clover but will stress out your grass.

So, mowing high will give your lawn a leg-up on the clover. ‘Good luck’ with these tips on getting rid of your clover, if that’s what you choose to do! Lawn care doesn’t need to be difficult and simple hints from Lawn Solutions Australia and their network of member turf growers and Lawn Solutions Centres Australia-wide can help with products to keep your lawn in top condition this summer.

Buffalo Grass

(Stenotaphrum secundatum)

Buffalo grass (known as St. Augustine in the US) is a warm-season grass that is native to areas of North and South America, parts of Africa and the Caribbean. Commonly known as soft leaf buffalo in Australia.

Buffalo grasses are a great all-round turf variety with a number of key strengths that make them an ideal variety for many Australian backyards.

Buffalo grasses have been developed over the years from the scratchy older types to the soft leaf buffalo’s that are commonly supplied today, like Australia’s most popular variety Sir Walter DNA Certified.

Key Characteristics of Buffalo Grass

These grasses can grow in a range of soil types, from sandy soils to light clays and at a range of pH levels between 5 and 8.5.

Buffalo turfs are one of the most shade tolerant turf types, with the ability to survive in areas receiving as little 40% sunlight, or 3-4 hours direct sunlight a day.

They also have a good tolerance of salinity and make for a great option in coastal areas.

Buffalo grasses only have above-ground stems known as stolons to establish from. Their stolons are very robust and hardy providing these grasses with a good wear tolerance. They will however be a little bit slower to repair than varieties like kikuyu or couch that also have underground stems called rhizomes to repair from as well as stolons.

How Buffalo Grass is Grown

Buffalo grasses are grown on turf farms through the establishment of vegetative material. When buffalo turf is harvested, strips known as ribbons are left behind in order for the turf paddock to re-establish again for harvesting. Buffalo turf cannot be established through seed as the seed heads that are produced are sterile and seed production is minimal. When looking to repair or patch a buffalo lawn, it will need to be established through vegetative material, so spreading of the runners, or by installing some more solid turf.

Buffalo turf can be installed year-round Australia wide. It establishes quickly over the warmer months but can take a little longer if you are installing in winter.

Important points for installation of buffalo grass

• Install the grass as soon as possible after delivery
• Lay on a bed of 100mm of quality turf underlay
• Use Lawn Solutions Australia Lawn Launcher at label rates to give the grass a head start and retain moisture in the new soil bed
• Roll to compact new turf to improve contact with the soil
• Soak the newly laid turf thoroughly for 10-14 days after installation or until established
• Reduce irrigation once established and water only when the grass appears to be dry
• Minimise irrigation in the cooler months to avoid your lawn getting waterlogged
• Consult your local supplier for seasonal advice on installation timing in cooler regions

Maintaining Buffalo Grass

Irrigation

it is important to be mindful of correct and efficient irrigation practices to maintain a healthy buffalo lawn.

• If watering is necessary once established, water only when there are signs of the grass drying out, e.g. wilted or curled leaves
• Do not water in the cooler winter months unless there are signs of the above
• If irrigation is needed, deeply soak the top 100mm of soil (generally 30 minutes with a standard sprinkler will suffice)
• Water early morning for improved efficiency and plant health

Mowing

Buffalo grass can be mowed between 20 and 60mm. They are best mowed with a rotary mower, but a cylinder mower can also produce fantastic results. Removing clippings is encouraged; however, mulch mowing is fine as long as clippings are not thick enough to inhibit the lawn from getting sunlight. Over winter it is recommended to leave your lawn slightly longer.

• Ensure that mower blades are sharp to prevent tearing of the leaf
• Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any one time unless dethatching
• Dethatch if required in late spring for best results
• It is recommended to remove clippings each mow to prevent thatch build-up

Fertilising Buffalo Grass

If you want your buffalo grass to remain healthy and have a nice, deep green colour, it is best to fertilise a few times per year.

• Apply slow-release granular fertiliser at a rate of 20-25g/m2 or 2-2.5kg/100m2
• For best results, fertilise at least 3 times per year. Important dates are late spring, mid to late summer and late autumn
• Always irrigate after applying fertiliser
• On new lawns, apply fertiliser after you have cut your lawn at least once
• To best maintain year-round colour, fertilise in late autumn and apply ColourGuard PLUS at 10 to 12-week intervals until spring

Weed and Pest Control for Buffalo Grass

Many buffalo types of grass like Sir Walter DNA Certified have fantastic natural resistance to most pests and weeds. To keep weeds at bay, it is important to fertilise your lawn regularly to keep it healthy. This will ensure it is sufficiently dense to block weeds out, and high nitrogen levels will also keep most weeds away.

To ensure your lawn remains pest free, always keep an eye out for signs of infestation and be proactive with preventative pesticides, such as Acelepryn GR.

Most domestically available chemical weed and pest control products can be used on buffalo lawns (with the exception of some Weed ‘n’ Feeds), but it is always best to read the label and check with your Lawn Solutions Australia grower for recommended products before any application.

Some common broadleaf herbicides contain Dicamba which is not safe to use on buffalo lawns. All-Purpose Weed Control and Bin Die Herbicide contain the active Bromoxynil which is safe to use on buffalo grass.

If you think buffalo grass is the right choice for your lawn, you cannot go past Sir Walter DNA Certified. Bred right here in Australia, Sir Walter DNA Certified has been the number one choice for Aussie backyards for over 20 years. Look out for the ‘Original Breeder Guarantee’ to ensure you are getting the genuine Sir Walter DNA Certified.

Can you identify all these common lawn weeds? We take a look at a few common lawn weeds that might be growing in your grass and what you can do to remove them.

Clover

Clover can easily be identified by its oval-shaped leaves. It will commonly grow with 3 leaves (four if you are lucky) with a white circular marking across all the leaves. The leaf will grow from a thin stem with white ball-like flowers.

Clover can easily be treated with a common broadleaf herbicide or a specific clover specific weed spray. To remove clover, we recommend using either Amgrow Bin Die or All Purpose Weed Control with the active ingredient Bromoxynil or removing by hand.

You can find more information on Clover here.

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Bindii

Bindii is a low growing weed with a flower at its centre. At maturity, the flower will produce a prickly seed pod, which can be quite annoying in the warmer months when enjoying your lawn.

Bindii can easily be removed by hand, or with a broadleaf herbicide with the active Bromoxynil like Amgrow Bin Die or All Purpose Weed Control. It is best to remove Bindii before it goes to seed to avoid stepping in those painful prickles.

You can find more information on Bindii here.

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Paspalum

Paspalum is a perennial grass weed that is mostly found in the South-eastern states of Australia. It will have a purple tinge as the base of its broad leaves and will primarily grow throughout the warmer months. This weed will spread through the transport of its sticky seeds, easily sticking onto pets and shoes.

With Paspalum the easiest way to remove it is to remove it by hand. When doing this, make sure you dig underneath the crown, below the soil level and remove the entire plant. There are also selective herbicides that are available. Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer with the active ingredient DSMA can easily be mixed in a knapsack or pressure sprayer, repeated applications may be needed. For kikuyu, buffalo and blue couch lawns please note this herbicide can harm your lawn too, so it is only best to spot treat these weeds.

You can find more information on Paspalum here.

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Oxalis

Oxalis has a similar appearance to clover. One of the main differences is oxalis has small light green or purple heart-shaped leaves, while clover will have oval-shaped leaves. There are a few different variations in their flower colour including white, pink, and yellow. There are a few species of oxalis, the common species found here in Australia is creeping oxalis.

To remove creeping Oxalis, a selective herbicide with Bromoxynil as the active ingredient like Amgrow Bin Die or All Purpose Weed Control can be used.

You can find more information on Oxalis here.

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Cudweed

Cudweed is another common weed that you may have noticed growing in your garden. It is an annual winter weed those forms in rosettes. It has glossy light green leaves on top and has a white and furry side underneath. They have various small flowers that grow from their stems.

It’s best to remove them by hand or with a selective herbicide with Bromoxynil as the actives such as Amgrow Bin Die or All Purpose Weed Control. You may require two or more applications. The glossiness of the leaves helps in its resistance to herbicides and makes it very difficult to control. You can add a few drops of dishwashing liquid or another surfactant to the herbicide mix, this will help it to stick to the leaves.

You can find more information on Cudweed here.

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Chickweed

Chickweed is a low growing, winter annual weed that can continue growing all through summer. It has paired leaves protruding opposite one another that have minimal fine hairs. As temperatures rise white flowers bloom in clusters at the end of a stem.

Like most lawn weeds, the easiest method of removing Chickweed from your lawn is by hand. Dig underneath the weed and remove the full plant from the grass. But, if there is a substantial amount present a herbicide with Bromoxynil as the active like Amgrow Bin Die or All Purpose Weed Control is the way to go.

You can find more information on Chickweed here.

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Nutgrass

Nutgrass is identifiable as it is usually a lighter green than the rest of your lawn and tends to grow taller. It has 3 blades that shoot up from the stem and has a triangular stem rather than a circular stem like most grasses.

If you do notice this weed in your lawn it is best to act quickly before it spreads. You can remove Nutgrass by digging it out with a small spade. You must be extremely diligent with this to ensure there are no roots or bulbs left in the soil as Nutgrass will reappear if left behind. If there is a large amount of Nutgrass in your lawn, you will need to treat it with a selective herbicide with the active ingredient Halosulfuron-Methyl such as Amgrow Sedgehammer.

You can find more information on Nutgrass here.

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Summer Grass

Summer grass is a common annual weed that has soft hairy leaves that grow close to the ground in clusters. The grassroots at the node (joint) and the sheathes of the leaf are usually purple-tinged in colour at the base.

Best to remove Summer grass by hand. If your lawn is unhealthy it will continue to reappear. By thickening up your lawn and keeping it healthy you will make it difficult for the summer grass to return. Herbicides with DSMA as the active ingredient like Paspalum, Nutgrass and Clover Weed Killer, commonly used for paspalum, will remove Summer grass. However, herbicides with DSMA are not safe for Kikuyu and buffalo lawns, so it is best to only spot treat.

You can find more information on Summer Grass here.

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Crowsfoot (commonly known as Crabgrass)

Crowsfoot is a summer annual grass that grows in easy to identify tufts. This weed grows flat to the ground with almost white flat sheathed stems and smooth strap-like leaves.

The best way to remove crowsfoot is to chip out by hand. Make sure when doing so that you carefully remove the entire plant and don’t spread any seeds during the process. Paspalum, Nutgrass & Clover Weed Killer, and herbicides formulated with the active DSMA will control crowsfoot. Again, when using products with DSMA as the active ingredient on Buffalo and Kikuyu it is best to only spot treat the weed as these herbicides can harm your lawn as well.

You can find more information on Crowsfoot here.

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Mullumbimby Couch

Mullumbimby Couch is a perennial mat-forming, grass-like sedge with dark green, glossy, strap-like leaves. It possesses tough and long rhyzomes which are red to purple in colour.

If you do notice this weed growing, it is best to act quickly before it spreads and becomes very difficult to remove. You can dig them out with a small spade. But you have to be extremely diligent with this to ensure there are no roots or bulbs left in the soil as they will reappear if left behind. If there is a large amount of Mullumbimby Couch in your lawn, you will need to treat it with a selective herbicide with the active ingredient Halosulfuron-Methyl such as Amgrow Sedgehammer.

Fertiliser Technologies You Need To Know

Dr Sam Stacey and Will Pearce, ICL Specialty Fertilisers

Healthy, resilient turf needs adequate nutrition and that’s why applying the right fertiliser product is so important. With so many fertiliser technologies on offer it can be difficult to know which product will give the best result. This article has been written to help demystify the differences between conventional, slow-release and controlled release fertilisers. We look at how each technology affects nutrient delivery to turf, how long they feed turf for and how local environmental conditions affect performance.

Conventional fertilisers – how long do they last?

Studies show that almost all of the nitrogen and phosphorus in conventional fertiliser granules is released on the same day that it is applied to the soil (this occurs whether a granule ‘shell’ is still visible or not). Fast dissolution is very easy to observe with urea granules, which can dissolve in minutes following light irrigation or even on humid days. Liquid or foliar fertilisers behave like conventional fertilisers in that they provide immediately soluble nutrients. All of these fertilisers provide an almost immediate response but have a short-term effect.

Once nutrients are released from the granule, they are subject to the prevailing environmental conditions. Either they will be taken up by the turf or remain in the soil where they are potentially subject to leaching (washing through the soil below the root zone) or, in the case of nitrogen, gaseous loss to the atmosphere (e.g. volatilisation or denitrification). Wet conditions from rainfall or frequent irrigation can increase nutrient losses. Fertiliser that has been leached or lost is no longer available to the turf.

There are three broad categories of technologies that have been designed to reduce losses of nutrients (mainly nitrogen) and keep more of the fertiliser in the root zone where it is available to the turf. The technologies are 1) Slow Release, 2) Controlled-Release and 3) Inhibitors(nitrification or urease).  We discuss how both Slow Release and Controlled Release technology affects fertiliser behaviour and availability to turf below.

ICL and Lawns Solutions Australia are currently running a trial at Daleys Turf on a range of granular fertiliser technologies and their effect on the establishment of Sir Grange Zoysia turf.

Slow and Controlled Release Fertilisers

Slow and controlled release fertilisers work by slowing the delivery of nutrients in the soil. Unlike straight urea or compound granules, controlled-release fertilisers release small amounts of nutrient each day for up to months at a time (the exact period is product dependent). Slowing and controlling the release of nutrients has the following benefits:

• One application of fertiliser can potentially feed the turf for months, so far fewer applications need to be made, which can reduce labour costs;
• The potential for burning of turf is significantly reduced because the nutrients are not immediately soluble.
• The turf receives consistent nutrition because the fertiliser releases a small amount each day. This leads to more even growth, better density and consistent colour.
• Nutrients are far less likely to be lost by leaching because only a small amount of nutrient is released into the soil at any one time. Polymer coating around the fertiliser granules protects the nutrients inside.
• A sudden bout of heavy rainfall will not empty the soil of nutrients like it can when conventional or even inhibitor-treated fertilisers have been used. Polymer-coated fertilisers will continue to slowly release nutrients, which will replenish the soil once the rainfall has stopped.

The difference between Slow Release and Controlled Release fertilisers

We find that some manufacturers use different terminology, but the internationally accepted definitions are that the term slow release is usually used to describe a fertiliser that is not polymer-coated and works by being partially insoluble. The fertiliser takes longer than usual to dissolve in the soil and therefore delivers nutrients over a longer period. For e.g. Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser.

What are Controlled Release Fertilisers?

Controlled release is used to describe fertilisers that have an outer polymer, polymer-sulphur or resin coating. The coating acts like a rain jacket; it slows moisture absorption by the granule and then slows the release of nutrients into the soil. With a good quality coating, it is possible to pre-program the fertiliser to release nutrients daily over different periods. Some controlled release fertilisers deliver nutrients over 2 months, others 6 months and others 8 months.  Some examples include ICL Maintenance and All Round Fertilisers.

ICL manufactures some for ornamental plant production that release slowly and consistently over an 18-month period!

Figure 1. Controlled release fertilisers have a resin or polymer coating that slows and controls nutrient release into the soil.

These are the features of slow-release and controlled-release fertilisers that matter in turf management:

Slow-release

• Often deliver nutrients, especially nitrogen, over a shorter time-period compared to controlled-release (e.g. approximately 8 weeks in the case of methylene-urea).
• Can be manufactured with very small particle sizes, which is ideal for fine turf such as golf greens and tees, bowling greens and grass tennis courts.
• Are less likely to burn or damage turf (compared to conventional or inhibitor-treated fertilisers).
• Often only nitrogen release is slowed.
• ICL has recently released new slow-release phosphorus and calcium fertiliser called “Pearl” in the Sierrablen Plus range, especially targeted at improving root development in turf renovations.

Controlled release

• Delivers nutrients over a longer time-period. Turf fertilisers most commonly use either 3-month or up to 5-months longevity.
• Have larger granule sizes than slow-release but are still available as a mini granule of 1.5 mm. Ideal for sports fields, fairways, amenity turf. Not ideal for very fine turf such as golf greens.
• Offer the most controlled and predictable release of nutrients of any fertiliser. Are not affected by most environmental conditions such as the amount of rainfall or soil pH.
• Nutrient release is faster in warmer temperatures, which can match the increase in turf growth rate and demand for nutrients.
• Virtually any nutrient can be coated, so it is possible to supply turf with controlled-release nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulphur and trace elements.

Some blended fertilisers are labelled as containing controlled release. However, many have only a small percentage of the nitrogen or potassium coated (e.g. 10% or less) with the rest behaving like ordinary agricultural fertiliser. To get the full benefits of controlled release it is important to use products with high coating rates (minimum 25% coated N for fairways and sports fields, higher levels for higher-end turf).

Which product will be the most effective?

If you want to apply fertiliser infrequently yet still have nutrients continuously available to the turf (to maintain density and colour over the long-term) then a controlled or slow-release fertiliser will provide the best performance. Controlled release is usually recommended for sports fields, fairways and parks/gardens and a slow-release with small particle sizes for fine turf.

Conventional fertilisers are still used in turf management. They release quickly and their effect is short-term, especially for turf grown on a sand-based construction. Despite the higher cost per bag, a good quality controlled or slow-release fertiliser is likely to give better overall performance (by continuously feeding the turf), be more efficient at lower application rates and give better environment outcomes.

References:

Dougherty WJ, Collins D, Van Zwieten L, Rowlings DW (2016) Soil Research, 54(5) 675-683.

Gioacchini P, Nastri A, Marzadori C, Giovannini C, Antisari LV, Gessa C (2002) Biology and Fertility of Soils, 36(2) 129-135.

Guertal EA, Howe JA (2012) Agronomy Journal 104(2) 344-352.

Irigoyen I, Muro J, Azpilikueta M, Aparicio-Tejo P, Lamsfus C (2003) Australian Journal of Soil Research 41, 1177-1183.

Mosdell DK, Daniel WH, Freeborg RP (1986) Agronomy Journal 78(5) 801-806.

Waddington DV, Landschoot PJ, Hummel Jr NW (1989) Communications in Soil Science and Plant Analysis 20(19-20), 2149-2170.

Dog urine is often one of the leading causes of dead patches in our lawns. Urine burns can be particularly frustrating as the solution is not always clear. We have looked into a variety of options that could help to stop or reduce the effect of urine burns on your lawn.

But first…

Why Does My Dog’s Urine Kill My Lawn?

Protein taken in by dogs is excreted through the dog’s urine as nitrogen. A dog’s urine can be quite concentrated with nitrogen, our lawns can become burnt and die off. This can become particularly annoying, especially when these patches are in areas of high visibility or of which you wish to enjoy.

Urine Burn Prevention Tips

Dog Rocks

• A popular option by many dog owners is Dog Rocks. Dog Rocks help by filtering out impurities in water, such as tin, ammonia and nitrates. These rocks are simply added to your dog’s water bowl where they are claimed to make the necessary adjustments for burn-free urine. Although this product does not help areas that have already been affected by urine burn, it can, however, help to stop more spots from occurring. Dog Rocks can start working 8-10 hours after being placed into your dog’s water bowl and will need replacing every 2 months.

Watering and Irrigation Methods

If you are able to dilute your dog’s urine before it is able to absorb and dry, you will be able to limit the concentration and reduce the likelihood of burning. If you have an irrigation or watering system that you can add a timer too, you could set it to come on more regularly throughout the day or specifically in areas that you know your dog regularly uses. While this may not be frequent enough to be effective all of the time, it may be enough to significantly reduce the amount of burning that is occurring.

Of course, if you happen to be around when your dog does their business, a quick blast with the hose will greatly limit burns to your lawn.

Dietary Adjustments

When looking to make changes to your dog’s diet to reduce the impact of urine, it is recommended that you contact your local veterinarian to ensure you are still providing your furry friends with their essential nutrient requirements and not causing them any harm.

Some options include:

• Filtering your dog’s water before adding it to their water bowl. Filtered water can work in a similar way to Dog Rocks, by removing impurities in the water. If you do not have access to a filtered water tap, a popular option is to use a filtered water jug. These jugs often come with a removable filter which can be changed every 2 months.
• By feeding your dog a high-quality and well-balanced diet with the appropriate protein levels for your dog’s breed, you should be able to reduce the concentration of nitrogen in your dog’s urine.
• Adding one teaspoon of apple cider vinegar to your dog’s water is claimed to help remove nitrogen from your dog’s urine. However, it is important to note that there is no substantial evidence that this method will be successful. If you do decide to try this method, we recommend that you use natural apple cider vinegar from a health food store and get in contact with your local vet prior to use.

Training

• Training your dog to only use one area of your lawn may be an effective option to help stop widespread damage. It is best to choose an area of your lawn that isn’t used as often or is not visible from where you like to relax and enjoy your garden.
• Training your dog to use a synthetic pet potty mat could also be an effective option that won’t require any changes to your dog’s diet. There are a variety of pet potty mats available both online and in stores. It is important to note that this option may be timely as training is required but can provide a long-term solution.
• Similar to a synthetic potty mat, you can make your own pet potty mat using turf. This way your dog will still be able to have the same feel of grass underfoot while doing its business. Use a shallow container or tray that is easy for your pets to walk into, place a role of turf into the tray and replace turf as needed. Again, this will take time to train your dog to use but will stop your dog from urinating on your lawn.

Treatment for Dog Urine Burns

Once the urine burn has occurred, the burnt turf, may not grow back. But there are a few things you can do to help the area recover quickly. Firstly, rake out the dead plant material and lightly raise the area by adding a small amount of topsoil. You can also add some dolomite lime which will reduce the acidity caused by the urine burn in the soil, making it more favourable for new growth. Follow this up with regular watering and mowing and you will help to encourage lateral growth and further thickening of the lawn.

A healthy lawn is built on healthy soil.

Many homeowners ask the question, “What’s wrong with my grass?” 9 times out of 10 the people you ask for help, whether it be your friend, your local nursery, the guy mowing the house next door, or the hardware store, will ask you, “how much water do you give your grass” or “do you fertilise enough?”

Even though these are good questions to ask, my question to you is, “What is your soil type and how was it prepared?” Your soil type and preparation will determine if you’re watering too much or not enough. Just as the foundation of a house is important to make sure it won’t fall down, a healthy soil foundation of your lawn and gardens is important to ensure it can flourish. The poorer the foundation, the poorer the performance of your lawns and gardens will be.

Too much water can harm your grass, as will providing not enough water. So, knowing your soil is imperative in ensuring you are able to provide the right amount.

Soil Type

If you live in a coastal area, there is a high chance you will have a sandy soil profile and the water will flow through the sandy profile easily, leading it to dry out quickly. Which means you will have to water your lawn more often. There is a lot of space and air between sand particles, so the soil won’t hold a lot of water and will move quickly through your profile. This soil type has a ‘low water holding capacity.’

If you live out in the suburbs away from the coast, the majority of soil types are what we call heavier soil (loam, clay loam or clay) which has less space and air between the soil particles. The higher the clay content, the smaller space and air between the soil particles become. This means that more water will stay within the soil, reducing the downward movement of water. These soil types have a ‘high water holding capacity’ which can lead to them being easily overwatered.

Heavier clay soils are very tight, sticky, and bind together making compaction a common problem. Compaction can result from high foot traffic from kids running around kicking a ball, dogs using the same spots to run on turf areas, for example. This compaction reduces water’s ability to move deeper into the soil profile.

Healthy Soil Foundation is key.

Why? Because this is where the roots of your grass grow. The amount of water the roots can access from the soil will ultimately determine how strong the roots can become.  When you have healthy soil, your grass has a higher chance of being healthier too.  If your soil dries out too quickly your roots can suffer and die, if you over water, your roots can be drowned.  If you can’t get water into the soil due to compaction, your roots will starve hydration. These issues below ground are what causes an unhealthy and weak lawn aboveground. Just as what happens below your house can be seen above ground, in things like cracking and moving walls.

So, what is your soil type?  How was your soil prepared? Was new soil added and blended with existing soil and how much depth of new soil do you have? Does your grass need better drainage? The answers to these questions will determine root health and the long-term health of your grass.

Do you know all the answers to these lawn questions?

All Turf Solutions receives all sorts of lawn questions from lawn lovers with many asking similar things. To help make the answers to these lawn questions easier to find, we’ve decided to answer them all in one convenient place!

When should I fertilise my lawn and what should I fertilise with?

Fertilising your lawn will help ensure it has the nutrients it needs to thrive and stay healthy.

We recommend that you fertilise your lawn a minimum of 3 times a year, once in spring, summer, and autumn. You can use the October long weekend, Australia Day and the Easter long weekend as a guide for most areas of Australia.

We recommend using Lawn Solutions Premium Lawn Fertiliser which is suitable for all lawn types. This is a slow-release granular product that will gradually release nutrients to your lawn for up to 12 weeks.

For more detailed information on fertilisers, check out our blog here.

How do I get on top of weeds in my lawn?

When you first notice weeds in your lawn, it is best to either treat them with your preferred herbicide or remove them by hand. Stopping weeds as soon as possible will help prevent them from spreading throughout your entire lawn.

Most broadleaf weeds can be treated with a specific broadleaf herbicide such as this All Purpose Weed Control or Bin Die.

For more options on weed removal, check out our blog here.

How do I remove a foreign grass type from my lawn?

Finding a different type of grass growing in your lawn can not only be frustrating but does pose the threat of spreading. When you find invading grass, the number one suspects are Kikuyu and Couch grasses.

So, how do you remove the invading grass? Well, there are two options.

The first is to pull it out by hand. If the grass is a bit more stubborn to remove you can chip it out using a mattock or a garden spade.

The second is to use a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate (Roundup). When using a non-selective herbicide, you will need to be careful to only touch the invading turf variety and not your lawn. To aid in precision, we recommend using either a weed wand or a small paintbrush for application.

You can learn more about identifying and treating invasive grasses here.

My lawn is thin and patchy, what should I do?

There’s nothing worse than putting work into your lawn, only to be still confronted with bare patches, poor grass growth and weeds starting to take hold.

There are a few simple lawn care tips that you can use to help get your lawn back on track. These include mowing your lawn regularly, fertilising if you haven’t already recently and raking out the dead plant material.

For more information, please check out our blog on repairing a thin and patchy lawn.

What is a pre-emergent herbicide and when should I apply it?

A pre-emergent herbicide will help stop and prevent targeted weeds from germinating. A pre-emergent like Oxafert will control both broadleaf and annual grass-type weeds including Winter Grass, Crowsfoot, Summer Grass, Creeping Oxalis and Crabgrass.

We recommend using this product when the temperatures begin to drop in your location. For most areas, this will usually be mid to late autumn. But if you notice that you are getting these weeds before this, it is best to put them down as soon as possible.

Oxafert is safe for most warm-season turf varieties including Buffalo, Kikuyu, Zoysia and Couch (excluding Santa Ana Grass). Oxafert is not safe for cool-season turf varieties including Ryegrass and Fescue. If you are not sure if Oxafert is suited for your grass variety, we recommend testing it on a small area of the lawn before applying it to the entire area. Remember- a pre-emergent will not kill existing weeds.

For more information on Oxafert, check out our blog here.

When should I water my lawn?

Once your lawn is established, it is best to only water when the lawn needs it. The perfect time to water is early morning before the sun fully comes out rather than in the evening or at night. This can help prevent your lawn from getting a fungal disease as they grow in damp conditions.

Check out our watering blog here for more information.

Should I dethatch my lawn?

The perfect time to dethatch your lawn is towards the end of spring when lawns are growing quickly and will have time to recover. Dethatch your lawn too late in the growing season and it won’t have time to recover before the cooler months.

By removing thatch, your soil base will be able to the receive air and nutrients it needs. This will also help your lawn feel less spongy underfoot.

Dethatching only needs to be done once every few years depending on your climate, how often you mow and your grass variety.

For more information on dethatching your lawn, check out our blog here.

What soil is best for top dressing?

Choosing a soil for top dressing to some extent is dependent on what it is you are trying to achieve. In most cases, top dressing is done to help correct poor soil preparation or low spots in your lawn. This can mean using either sandy loam, fresh organic matter or even a straight-washed sand.

Some people like to top dress their lawns annually in spring with a very light skim using organic soil mixtures. This is a great way to provide some nutrient to your lawn early in the growing season and usually results in a nice boost of colour. A heavier top dress in consecutive years should only be necessary if trying to build up levels or improve a poor soil base gradually over time.

To see what soil you should use, check out our blog on top dressing here.

What weed n feed should I use for my grass?

Weed n feed products usually consist of a fertiliser and broadleaf herbicide component, however the results aren’t usually what you are hoping for. Therefore, we don’t recommend using these products as they don’t properly stop weeds and won’t give your lawn a quality fertilise.

Why is this? Check out our blog here for more information.

How do I aerate my lawn and when should I do it?

To aerate your lawn, we recommend either manually doing so using a garden fork or a manual core aerator or hiring an aerating machine. When using a garden fork, drive the fork into the ground and then give it a wriggle back and forth to help break up the soil profile. When using a core aerator, whether it be manually or with a machine, when the tynes exit the ground they will remove cores that help to create more space in the soil profile.

The best time to aerate your lawn is in spring and autumn, however it can be done at any time throughout the whole year.

Our gardens are our pet’s window to the outside world, with many sniffs to smell and places to run. To keep our lawns safe for our four-legged friends there are five simple steps that you can take to make your outdoor space pet friendly.

The 5 simple steps to keeping a pet-friendly lawn are:

1. Avoid toxic plants
2. Have a fenced-in area
3. Use a pet-friendly turf variety
4. A mix of shaded and sunny spots
5. Use pet-friendly lawn care products

Want to know more?

Step 1 – Avoid toxic plants

Surprisingly, several plants can harm your pets. Their severity ranges from mild rashes, stomach pain, mouth ulcers to vomiting, irritation to the mouth, and convulsions, these requiring urgent veterinary care.

Although most of the time our pets won’t be interested in these plants, it is important to be aware of these plants if they are in your garden.

Some plants that can be toxic for pets include:

• Bird of paradise
• Aloe
• Tulips
• Daffodils
• Most plants with bulbs
• Ivy
• Lilies
• Brunfelsia (yesterday, today, tomorrow)
• Gum trees
• Blue-green algae
• Rhubarb

Step 2 – Have a fenced-in area

Having a safely fenced-in area for your dog to run around in will help stop your pet from getting into mischief.

When installing a fence, you want it to be both practical and look great! There is a variety of options available to suit all budgets, ranging from timber, iron, and wire fencing just to name a few.

If you have an existing fence that is failing to keep your pets inside, walk the boundary and check for any possible escape routes.

Step 3 – Use a pet-friendly turf variety

Humans are not the only ones who love going out and relaxing on the lawn, our pets do too! So, when looking for the best turf variety for your home, it is important to consider not only your needs but your pets too!

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is a fast-repairing turf variety. This means if the lawn is going to receive a lot of wear from pets and kids, it will be able to repair itself fast. This turf variety has a soft fine leaf that is great to touch and feels great underfoot.

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo is a hardier grass and performs well in high wear areas. Sir Walter is great with pets and kids, has a soft broadleaf, is low allergenic, and is weed resistant.

Step 4 – Mix of shaded and sunny spots

Having both shaded and sunny spots throughout your lawn is important to keep your pets happy.

On a hot summer day, shaded areas are a great place for our pets to cool off. To help create more shaded areas in your garden you can plant some trees, or even add some furniture that your pets can go underneath.

Sunny areas allow for your pets to soak up the sun on a cool winter day.

Step 5 – Pet-friendly lawn care products

When it comes to using lawn care products, it is important to know if the products you are using around your pets are safe.

Firstly, always read and follow the label’s instructions. If you are unsure of anything, please confirm with your supplier for further details.

Granular fertilisers are safe to use around pets if they are applied as per the application rate and are watered correctly into the lawn/earth. Once this is done, the granules are very difficult to access. But it is always best to keep pets off the lawn for 24 hours after using a granular product on the lawn.

Once a liquid fertiliser has dried and absorbed into the leaf you are fine to let your pets return to the lawn. This can take a few hours depending on the weather.

As chickens will peck into the soil profile, it is best to stick to using a liquid fertiliser.

Avoid using bated products for snails, mice, insects, and other pests as they can be fatal. If your pet does have contact with one of these baited products, seek veterinary advice immediately.