Category: Seasonal Advice

This page will help you to identify couch mite and provide some advice on how to easily manage them yourself.

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Couchgrass mites are active where ever couchgrass is grown. For the most part, common couchgrass is the most susceptible while the vegetative propagated hybrid couchgrass like Tifway, Tifdwarf, and Tifgreen are usually resistant.

The couchgrass mite is rarely a problem on short cut turf found on golf course greens, tees, and fairways. Symptoms first appear as a weak growing couchgrass turf. The leaves turn a light green and curl abnormally. The internodes shorten, and the tissue swells resulting in the couchgrass becoming tufted so that a clumping pattern becomes evident in the turf stand. These tufts give the appearance of “witches brooms”. Eventually the grass loses its vigor, thins out, and if severe enough, dies.

The mite is extremely small, invisible to the naked eye – only visible under a microscope. Hand lenses usually do not have the magnifying power to make the mite visible.

The mite appears wormlike with two pairs of legs facing forward. The lifecycle of this mite is quite rapid. Under ideal conditions, the mite can complete its life cycle from hatching to an adult in 7 days. Under most summertime conditions, the adults lay eggs every 2 to 5 days with the mite completing its lifecycle in 10 to 14 days. The mites tend to develop between the leaf sheath and blade. This location makes it often difficult to get a chemical spray to the mite.

Culturally, lowering the mowing height will make for a less favorable environment for the mite. Care should be done not to cause scalping. Removing clippings will also help reduce mite populations. Irrigating and fertilising make for a healthier couchgrass turf. Miticides may or may not be effective. If used be sure to apply with adequate water and suitable spray adjuvants.

Short residual insecticides are effective but may need to be applied multiple times. In the United States many managers try to “outgrow” the mite through fertilisation and irrigation.

 

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As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF or 07 5543 8304.

Unfortunately, when the conditions are right, usually damp and humid, the fungal disease could appear in your lawn. These such conditions have been common in many areas across Australia in recent months.

When these turf diseases take hold, it is important that you identify and target the disease with an appropriate response quickly.

Fungal related symptoms to look out for:

• Coloured patches or rings in your lawn – yellow, white or brown
• Powdery coatings or threads on the grass blade surface
• Thinned out areas, or areas of wet or slimy-looking turf
• Leaf-blades with irregular discolouration or texture

What causes fungal disease?

The most common reasons fungal diseases occur are:

• Weather conditions, particularly temperature and humidity
• Overwatering and watering at night
• Soil compaction
• Over fertilising or using the wrong type of fertiliser
• Incompatible grass varieties for your area
• Poor mowing habits – mowing too low in particular

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As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF or 07 5543 8304.

We often get asked “what is the best fertiliser to use?” and the answer is not always as straightforward as you might think.

There are a few factors to consider when selecting what type of fertiliser is best for your lawn.

What time of year is it?

• If it’s winter, dont bother, most grasses are dormant and won’t respond to the fertiliser anyway
• if its right in the middle of summer just use a more organic & lighter rate fertiliser like Seasol (available at Bunnings)
• The best time to apply heavier fertilisers is at the start of the spring growing season (early-mid September)

Can you water it in & apply it properly?

• Make sure you’re available to water in the fertilisers quite well straight after application, most need about 10mm+ of water to be effectively absorbed into the roots of the turf where it’s needed
• If using chemical fertilisers we highly recommend getting yourself a hand spin spreader, they cost $15-20 all and are great for getting consistent coverage without fertiliser burn issues
  

  Fertiliser burn is a nasty problem, this happens when you apply too much fertiliser to the turf and it burns it yellow/brown and can sometimes cause damage that takes months to recover from.

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Here are some great quality products we recommend

For a quick green-up that can be applied anytime through Spring, Summer & Autumn

• Professional grade: LawnPride GreenXtra
• Available at Bunnings: Seasol hose on

For slow-release long-lasting chemical fertiliser (best-applied start of spring & start of autumn)

• Professional grade: LawnPride Maintain
• Available at Bunnings: Munns Green Keeper

To maintain optimal soil moisture, use a wetting agent twice a year (Spring & Summer)

• Professional grade: LawnPride HydraMaxx
• Available at Bunnings: Amgrow Wettasoil

It’s always a good idea to mix it up and put down some good heavy organics once every 2 years or so, Dynamic Lifter or compost from your local landscape yard is perfect for this.

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