Category: Turf Information

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As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

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As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

The growth of grass is heavily dependent on the amount of sunlight the lawn receives. Just like trees and other plants, grass converts energy from sunlight into sugar through the process of photosynthesis. Warm-season turf varieties including buffalo, couch, zoysia, and kikuyu love full sunlight and will thrive in well-lit areas. But with little sunlight turf can often struggle to grow.

In this blog, we will look at how grass grows, why grass needs sunlight, how much sunlight is needed for different varieties, and how you can manage shade on your lawn.

What makes grass grow?

Grass grows by using energy from the sun to produce sugar. This energy is then used to convert water and carbon dioxide into glucose. This carbon dioxide is absorbed through the leaf of the grass and water is mainly absorbed by the roots of the grass. After glucose is created it is used throughout the grass for growth. Oxygen is then released into the atmosphere as a by-product. This process is otherwise known as photosynthesis.

Why does grass need sunlight?

Just like all plants, grass needs sunlight. Sunlight allows grass to produce the food your lawn needs to survive. Glucose, otherwise known as sugar, is produced by the grass and is used as food to help your lawn grow. Without sunlight, your lawn will not be able to produce glucose, causing the grass to thin out and die.

Grass also uses sunlight to produce a pigment called Chlorophyll. Chlorophyll absorbs light at two different wavelengths, blue light, and red light while reflecting green light. When light is present chlorophyll can then be produced.

In winter when there is less sunlight available, many types of grass will start to lose their green colour and can turn brown. When this occurs, this does not mean that the lawn is dying, it is just not receiving enough light to produce chlorophyll.

How much does sunlight does turf need?

While all turf varieties do need some sunlight to thrive, some are more shade tolerant than others. This means some varieties can better absorb sunlight than others.

Generally, the wider the leaf blade on the grass, the more shade-tolerant a turf variety will be.

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo tends to do better in shaded areas due to its soft broadleaf. This broadleaf allows the grass to absorb more sunlight due to a larger surface area. This grass can thrive in areas that receive as little as 3 to 4 hours of direct sunlight each day or speckled sunlight from trees for most of the day.

Sir Grange Zoysia

Sir Grange Zoysia is another shade-tolerant variety. This is due to its slow growth habit. Sir Grange’s slower growth habit causes the turf to need fewer inputs, including sunlight. Once established, Sir Grange can thrive in areas that receive a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight per day.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is a fast-growing fine leaf turf variety, needing at least 5 hours of direct sunlight. This variety has an increased gibberellic acid production. This results in a superior stimulation of photosynthesis, assisting in the plants’ ability to absorb sunlight, giving TifTuf a greater ability to absorb sunlight than other fine leaf couch varieties.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What should I do if my lawn isn’t receiving enough sunlight?

If your lawn is in a shaded area, we recommend regularly pruning back any trees, bushes, and other foliage around the lawn. This will help increase the amount of sunlight your lawn receives. If your lawn is shaded by the house or other structures, choose a shade-tolerant turf variety that will be suited for your area.

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As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Weeds commonly appear in areas where the lawn is not as healthy. This may be caused by excessive shade causing thinning, high wear areas or poor nutrition. Keeping your lawn healthy with correct maintenance & regular mowing will help it to fight off weeds on its own, premium lawn types like Sir Walter, TifTuf, Sir Grange, Empire Zoysia, AgriDark & OZTUFF have a natural defence against weeds by forming a very tightly knitted mat of grass and thatch which smother out the weeds.

Prevention is better than the cure

A great way to control weeds all year round is to use a pre-emergent herbicide + fertiliser such as OxaFert, applied every 3 months it creates a barrier at the soil level which prevents new weeds from germinating. OxaFert is available on the Lawn Solutions Australia website.

• Some weeds can be selectively targeted with special herbicides if you have a Sir Walter Buffalo lawn though make sure it says “safe for use on buffalo” check out the range of herbicides from Lawn Solutions Australia available to purchase online are selective herbicides for control of common lawn weeds; Wintergrass, Nutgrass, Bindii & Clover, if you’re struggling with any other weeds give us a call.
• The natural alternative is to dig out the weeds by hand, just be sure to place the removed weed clumps in the bin as leaving them on the lawn may allow it to reproduce again.
• Sometimes you will find that even after removing weeds they still grow back, this is because some weeds have underground seeds that can last for years before germinating, again the best defence is a good offence, herbicide applications and keeping your lawn healthy will be your best option.

Non-selective herbicides, also called total kill herbicides to kill almost every plant they contact.

Examples are:

• Glyphosate (roundup), moves through the plant to the roots, usually takes 2-3 weeks to take effect, Soil is unaffected by glyphosate and won’t affect the turf’s ability to grow in the old weed location.
• Woody Weeders, very effective control for unwanted trees and shrubs (check local regulations before removing trees).
• Once-A-Year Path Weeders, control existing weeds and leave a weed-killing residue in the soil (that lasts for up to 12 months).

Tips for applying herbicides

• When applying to large areas (such as lawns) carefully measure the area to be covered.
• Weedkillers work most effectively when the plant is actively growing (usually spring, summer, autumn).
• Read and follow label instructions carefully, a common misconception for concentrates is that if you mix extra poison in with the water then it will produce a stronger herbicide, this is simply untrue, the mix ratios have been developed by scientists to be the most effective.

Turfgrass is the ultimate natural erosion & sediment control measure for your project.

After a rain event or flood when silt fences, rock checks, coir logs etc. all need to be repaired or replaced, your turfed drains are not likely to need any attention, it will regrow through the silt using it as a new topsoil base, perfect for construction sites that only need the drains in place during construction.

Turf naturally filters & captures environmental pollutants from site run-off & prevents them from entering waterways such as hydrocarbons, disturbed soil, cement, chemicals, steel oxide etc, keeping the EPA & local council inspectors happy.

Laying turf around your site also has a natural temperature cooling effect, by absorbing the suns radiation instead of reflecting it like a bare dirt surface or concrete would, turfed areas are on average 10°C cooler, plus with the added benefit of converting CO² to Oxygen more efficiently than trees, your workers, clients, end-users & the planet will thank you for it.

Erosion & Sediment Control Demonstration

To see how well turf performed against other industry recognised erosion & sediment control measures check out the Bioscience Australia website. Downloadable PDF of preliminary findings from Bioscience Australia.

All Turf Solutions supply many turf varieties suitable for erosion control.

The grass is always greener on the other side, but is that natural or artificial turf you’re eyeing over there?

When it comes to picking out your garden greenery, there are benefits – and drawbacks – to each option that you need to consider. We all know a beautiful outdoor space with a tidy lawn is the perfect finish to a home, but everyone’s needs and constraints are different. Plus, buying and installing the wrong turf can be costly and time-consuming – not to mention a waste of perfectly good resources.

Whether you decide to go Astro or lay some down-to-earth soil and grass on your personal plot, we’re here with all the info to help you find your perfect turf. Firstly, there are some environmental benefits to choosing artificial. Obviously, no watering or pesticide chemicals are required to keep it looking lush, and you also don’t have to burn through fossil fuels with the lawnmower on regular basis. Also, there are varieties of artificial turf that make use of recycled materials – a definite plus.

However, that doesn’t mean it’s the ‘greener’ option. This grass comes with a high carbon footprint, particularly from manufacturing and long-distance transport, and because it isn’t a living plant it does not reduce carbon, filter sediment or help provide a habitat for garden wildlife.

Artificial turf can also affect the environment around it: water run-off can send heavy metals and synthetic residue into the storm drains and a synthetic lawn actually raises the ambient temperature by absorbing and radiating heat, unlike real turf. And that water you save not having to keep it lush? Keep in mind you still have to clean it somehow. Finally, for disposal, this turf will usually end up in landfills, which isn’t very environmentally sustainable.

Even though natural turf requires regular watering and maintenance, there are clear benefits to the surrounding environment, as it improves soil quality and biodiversity. You still have to be careful with chemical runoff from herbicides and pesticides, but this can be controlled with some sound knowledge of turf management. Over the life cycle of natural turf, there is a lower carbon footprint, and even a ‘carbon sink’ removing CO2 from the atmosphere.

With the right information, you can find turf to fit your lifestyle. All Turf Solutions does not supply or install artificial turf, but if you decide that option works best for you then we are more than happy to refer you to one of our recommended contractors.

Give us a call on 1800ALLTURF for more information.

This handy guide has been prepared to help you get the best result for your lawn installation in Brisbane, Ipswich & the Gold Coast. By following these steps you will be able to install & maintain your new lawn like a professional.

Site Preparation

• Spray out existing lawn & weeds with Glyphosate (Roundup), follow the label for rates to give the maximum kill, allow a minimum of 5-7 days for the chemical to work on the plant, a second application may be required, if you wait until the existing lawn is totally brown & dead it will be easier to remove,
• Either remove old lawn and weeds or cultivate this into the base soil, for best results cultivate, till or spade the area to a depth of approximately 150mm, this is also an ideal time to add soil amendments like Gypsum, Lime and extra organics,
• Test your soil with a pH test kit to check if you need to add any additional products to balance your soil’s pH (somewhere between 6 – 7 is ideal for lawns)
• If you have poor soil, cap this off with good quality under turf soil such as TurfGro to a depth of 50 to 200mm. Allow for 30% compaction of your soil when ordering,
• Eliminate drainage problems by having soil slope away from foundations, footpaths, garden beds etc. and towards drains,
• Rake and smooth soil whilst removing rocks, roots, and large clods,
• Roll the area with a lawn roller, this will firm the soil surface and reveal low areas that need more soil,
• Keep the soil level 30mm below footpaths, patios and driveways for the new turf to sit into (40-50mm for buffalo).
• Apply a pre-plant fertiliser like Lawn Launcher which contains a pre-plant fertiliser and water crystals that help boost your new lawns drought tolerance,
• Screen off the soil to provide a smooth surface, roll, then screen again. Your soil needs to be compacted enough that when you walk on it you only leave a small footprint.
• Lightly wet the soil to minimise dust & provide a moist base for your new turf, but not too wet that it turns to mud.

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Turf & Lawn Installation Brisbane, Gold Coast & Ipswich

• Prior to laying turf check that the soil surface is not too hot. Lightly wet the soil down if it is hot.
• Install your lawn immediately upon delivery. Turf is degrading on the pallet, and it is recommended that all turf should be laid within 4 hours of delivery in summer/spring & 12 hours in winter/autumn, failing to do so can lead to pallet burn.
• Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as a driveway or footpath
• Butt and push end against each other tightly, without stretching.
• Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a large sharp knife to trim corners.
• On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.
• After installing the turf, roll the entire area, this will improve the contact between the turf and soil and help with levelling.
• Begin watering the lawn within 30 minutes of installation. Turf is a living plant that requires ground contact and moisture.
• During the first two weeks, avoid heavy or concentrated use of your new lawn, this gives the roots an opportunity to firmly knit with the soil and ensures that the turf will remain smooth.

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Initial Watering

We recommend applying 10 litres of water per square metre on the initial installation, you need to get the top 25mm of soil under the turf saturated.

The information provided below is based on the climate of South East Queensland, take into account your current climate & temperatures when using this guide

• Week 1: water lightly up to three times a day during spring/summer, once a day will be enough in autumn/winter.
• Week 2: roots should have formed by now, to check simply lift up the corner of a slab and look for little white shoots, watering can now be reduced to once per day but watering should now be longer, this will soak the water in deeper which encourages the roots to search deeper.
• Week 3: Water a couple of times per week. Again, increase the watering time to encourage deep rooting. The full establishment could take between one and three months depending upon the season & grass type. You should be mowing by now. But never mow off more than one third “1/3” of the leaf at any time.