Fertilising your lawn the right way can help improve its appearance while keeping it healthy. While fertilising is quite simple, there is a bit more to it than simply chucking it out or spraying it on.

When to fertilise

When fertilising, you want to make sure you are applying it at the right time of year to get the most out of your fertiliser. Most common warm season varieties like buffalo, couch, kikuyu, and zoysia love a feed around mid-spring when the lawn starts to grow again after winter. Another feed in summer around Australia day. Then again in Autumn after Easter or Anzac Day to help give the lawn a boost heading into the cooler months.

There are 2 main types of fertilisers on the market, granular and liquid.

Granular Fertilisers

Granular fertilisers are an easy and popular option to use. These fertilisers do take longer to be absorbed but will usually release nutrients over a longer period.

Before application, best to measure out your lawn size to ensure you apply it at the correct application rate. Then check your fertilisers label rate and safety instructions. With granular fertilisers, we recommend using a fertiliser spreader to apply the granules evenly or use a smooth motion when spreading by hand. When applying fertilisers, the most important thing is to evenly cover the area as best you can. We recommend walking up and back, then across in the opposite direction to get the best coverage. Keep an eye out how wide you are spreading the granules out to avoid doubling up on application in areas.

Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser is a professional blend of both slow and fast release granules containing all the essential nutrients and trace elements for all lawn types. It has been designed to provide the best results when applied at a rate of 20 to 25 grams per square metre. To calculate your coverage, simply multiply your lawn area (m2) by this rate (20 to 25g).

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Liquid fertilisers

Liquid fertilisers work faster than granular fertilisers as are applied directly to the leaf of the lawn and are absorbed quickly. This helps give your lawn a short boost.

Again, before application measure out your lawn size and apply as per your fertiliser’s application rate. When applying your liquid fertiliser, spray your fertiliser evenly by walking in an organised fashion to achieve an even application. Keep an eye out how wide your sprayer is to avoid doubling up on application in areas.

Exceed Liquid Fertiliser is a premium, professional foliar fertiliser designed to bring out the best in any lawn. It can be applied using either a knapsack sprayer, watering can, or with a 2L hose on sprayer. When applying Exceed with a knapsack use 200-400ml with 7lt-10lt of water for 100m2.

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Irrigation

After applying your fertiliser, give any hard surfaces a sweep or blow to remove any fertiliser that may have been applied before irrigation. This will help avoid staining to your hard surfaces.

After clearing your hard surfaces, it is time for the final step, watering in your fertiliser. This is an important step to help avoid burning on your lawn. Not all fertilisers need to be watered in, but the majority do. If you are unsure, read your products label or check with the product manufacturer. To water in your fertiliser, you can use a hose and sprinkler or time your application just before rain. One thing to be careful of when applying just before rain is that you are not going to get too much rain as it can wash the fertiliser straight out of the lawn. Around 5-10ml of rain is perfect.

Over the following weeks you will be able to reap the benefits of a healthy lawn.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

• Organic debris like leaves and clippings can be left on your lawn to breakdown as mulch
• Mowing in the same pattern is not recommended
• Watering occasionally is better for your lawn than ‘little-often’

1. Collect your grass clippings?

Many believe leaving grass clippings on your lawn will create thatch. Grass clippings breakdown quite quickly, are estimated to be made up of 85-95 percent water and add to the organic layer below your lawn. Grass clippings act as a natural fertiliser, with beneficial nutrients like potassium, nitrogen and phosphorous. If it’s been a while since you mowed or the length has gotten away from you, then try bringing the height down over a few days so there’s not too much (greater than about 25mm – or 1 inch) clipping left on your lawn as too much clipping left on the lawn can cause problems.

2. Strict mowing pattern?

While regular mowing is important, mowing in the same patterns causes your lawn to develop a ‘memory’, making the blades fall the same way. This can eventually deprive your lawn from sunlight and water. You can also track ruts into your lawn from going over the same wheel marks all the time. Simply mow in alternate directions and change your patterns to ensure a more evenly cut, with less compaction and a better-looking lawn.

3. Don’t leave leaves on your lawn!

While a heavy layer can smother your lawn, a moderate to light layer of leaves can be mulched back into the lawn, providing nutrients for your grass. Shredding the leaves as you mow the lawn is all you need to do.

4. Overwatering your lawn

If you take care of your lawn properly, the need for water is minimal. Deeper, less frequent, watering is much more beneficial than the mindset of “the more, the better” when it comes to your lawn. Overwatering can result in short roots, fungus, and a high bill from your water company! Sticking to this routine – even if you have an automated sprinkler – will ensure your lawns root system is delving deep for moisture and will survive dry periods with less stress.

5. Overnight or afternoon watering is best

Many people believe that watering your lawn in the afternoon after the sun has gone down or at night is best, but this is not the case! When you water your lawn at night or in the afternoon, your lawn will be sitting damp till the next morning. This is not good for your lawn as it can then be susceptible to fungal diseases. The best time to water is in the morning, before the heat of the day.

6. Cutting grass shorter will make it grow slower

Cutting the grass too short can harm the roots and stunt growth. It’s important to mow at the appropriate height for your grass type, and to avoid cutting more than one-third of the blade at a time.

7. Lawns and lawn care are boring to talk about!

Talking about your love for your lawn can be a great icebreaker, especially when you have some hilarious puns to go with it. Just ask the specialists at Lawn Solutions Australia . . . they’re easy to ‘get-a-lawn-with’!

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Winter Grass is one of the more frustrating weeds to remove. As winter grass grows it produces triangular shaped seed heads. These seeds make the weed easier to identify but are a sign that it has already started spreading for next season. In this blog, we look at what winter grass is and how you can stop it from spreading throughout your lawn.

Winter Grass

Winter Grass, botanically known as Poa Annua is a low growing weed that has soft, drooping green leaves, and grows in tufts with white seeds. This weed will start to appear when the average soil temperature drops to 16 – 17 degrees. For most areas, this is around mid to late Autumn or when you start to notice the cooler temperatures. When the soil temperatures drop below this, the winter grass seeds that are in the soil will start to germinate and grow.

How Does Winter Grass Spread?

As Winter grass continues to grow, it will produce triangular seeds heads. These seeds are then dropped into the lawn, or spread by wind, birds, underfoot… and will grow a new winter grass weed/plant.

Prevention

Pre-emergent herbicides like Oxafert and Oxapro target seasonal weed seeds that are already in the soil, stopping them from germinating, before the weed starts to appear! Pre-emergents are best applied in mid to late Autumn, or when the temperatures start to drop in your location. This is when the seasonal winter weed seeds that are already in the soil will start to germinate.

You can also apply a pre-emergent in early to mid Spring, or when the temperatures are starting to rise to help stop seasonal summer weeds, like Summer Grass and Crabgrass/Crowsfoot.

How Pre-Emergents Work

Pre-emergents work by forming a barrier at the soil level, affecting the germination of any new seedlings. This prevents any new weeds from growing and spreading throughout your lawn for up to 12 weeks.

It is important to note, pre-emergents will only stop weeds during germination and won’t stop any existing weeds that are already in the lawn. If you are wanting to target weeds that are already growing in your lawn it is best to use a post emergent herbicide for control.

How to Apply Oxafert

When applying Oxafert and Oxapro, spread out the granules evenly by using a sweeping hand motion or apply with a fertiliser spreader for even coverage. Oxafert and Oxapro are best applied to dry foliage and watered in immediately after application.

Winter Grass in Your Lawn Already?

If Winter Grass has already infiltrated your lawn, it is best to use a selective post-emergent herbicide. Amgrow Winter Grass Killer is a selective herbicide safe to use on most varieties including Blue Couch, Common Couch, Bent, Buffalo (including Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo) and Brown top lawns. This is not safe to use on Kikuyu or Fescue lawns. Another post-emergent herbicide that is safe to use on Kikuyu lawns is Munns Winter Grass Killer.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Which of these edgers is for you?

Six words deflated me like a bindii in a bike tyre: ‘why don’t you do the edges?’ My lawn was looking terrific, but my edges were as fuzzy as riding in the rain wearing glasses. I can’t recall my answer to the question, but a star-wheeled edger soon found a home next to my bike in the shed and lifted my lawn to the next level.

The star-wheeled edger is a manual type, while others are powered. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, which we’ll discuss to sharpen your edger knowledge and your edges.

Manual edgers

Manual edgers are available in four types – hand shears, spades, half-moon edgers and rollers. They best suit smaller areas because they rely on your physical effort. Top tip: use them when the ground is damp! The advantages these edgers provide is they don’t release emissions, they’re low cost, require virtually no maintenance, and they’re easily stored.

• Half-moon edger – These edgers are like a spade in that they require you to push the blade into the ground with your foot. You’ll achieve the best results by rocking the tool back and forth as you proceed along the edge.
• Roller edgers also require foot power. They have a metal or wooden pole with either a star-shaped or disc-shaped wheel attached at the bottom. You place the wheel on the hard surface and the cutting edge into the ground, then push with your foot. These are good when they’re used frequently on edges that aren’t too overgrown.

Powered edgers

Powered edgers have a blade that cuts through the edge. The blade height is often adjustable so that you can cut just above ground or to several centimetres below ground. These are great for larger areas and long stretches of edging.

Petrol

Petrol models can have single or multiple wheels; the multiple wheeled types are the most stable.

These edgers can also go around trees or garden beds. There are variations among manufacturers, so you need to read the instructions related to the specific model.

The disadvantages of these are they are relatively noisy, they may need replacement parts (e.g. blades), they take up greater storage space, and they release emissions. Having said this, they will provide a nice straight deep edge that will look great and the more you practice the straighter and cleaner the edge will look.

 

Electric

Electric edgers are cord or battery powered and lighter than petrol models. They are quieter than petrol models, though they don’t have as much power. The benefit of these over the petrol models is there are no emissions and they’re a bit smaller, allowing easier storage.

Rotary Scissors

Rotary scissors are another tool which can help you get a perfect edge to your lawn. These scissors work by using a pair of scissor-like bladed discs that rotate in a circular motion to trim and shape the edges of the grass.

What about a trimmer?

Whipper snippers or trimmers aren’t dedicated edging devices; however, they’re often used for this purpose. A rotating flexible nylon line cuts grass, weeds and small unwanted plants. On some models you can rotate the heads so they’re in a vertical position for edging.

Whipper snippers come in several versions: straight shaft or curved shaft with 2- or 4- stroke petrol motors or battery-operated models. They’re especially good for working at an angle.

The main types are corded, battery and petrol-powered trimmers. Petrol trimmers have more power and are much better for larger areas. Trimmers with cords will probably require an extension lead, so are only useful for small areas. They also aren’t as powerful.

If your lawn looks a bit scraggly around the edges, the overall appearance of your lawn is definitely diminished. Most people tend not to have a dedicated lawn edger, so if you are using a Whipper snipper/weed whacker/line trimmer or whatever it is you call it, it is important that you know how to use it to get the best results.

Here’s some tips for getting a great finish every time with a whipper snipper – 

Speed – Your trimmer will work best when at full speed. So, keeping your trimmer line away from the edge and working your way in, is key to maintaining speed. Avoid starting the line trimmer already in the grass you’re cutting for the quickest, cleanest cuts. It’s the tip of the line that is cutting, so keeping the majority of the line clear will result in a cleaner cut.

Spin direction – Depending on which way your trimmer spins, you need to make sure you are cutting with one side and the material is being ejected to the opposite side. So, if your trimmer spins counter clockwise, you need to keep the right side closer to the edge so that material is being ejected away from it. This will keep the cutting path clear and allow you to achieve a much better result.

Edging and tapering – Edging will be important for driveways and paths where you are after a clean edge to something parallel. This is where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is vertical. This will provide a crisp cut line where you want the grass to end. Tapering is used for fences and retaining walls where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is at a slight angle. This will ensure you don’t scalp a full run of grass by trimming parallel and get a nice gradual blend between the object and the grass.

Regular trims – The best edges are ones that are kept on top of and not allowed to get out of control. So, the more you do it, the more likely your edges will stay uniform and the easier they will be to tidy up, and the better you will get at it.

The finish line

Each edger has its place, depending on the size of your yard and your needs. You may need a couple of types to get the look you want and get the edge on your neighbours!

Now you’re a little clearer on the edger(s) you need, get on your bike and get the one you like – chances are you’ll get a few more ‘likes’ for your lawn.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.