Author: Apex Digital

What is thatch?

You may have noticed your lawn has a build-up of dead organic matter, excessive roots and stems that have developed within the profile of your grass. This is a natural process caused by your lawn producing more organic matter than what can be broken down. Some turf varieties will thatch more than others and over time the height of your lawn can increase and can become quite unsightly.

Dethatching will help to remove this layer so that air and nutrients are able to reach your soil base and can more effectively feed your lawn. Reducing thatch also prevents water log in your roots and allows proper drainage, this will help to prevent the risk of fungal issues.

What do I do?

If your lawn feels ‘spongy’ to walk on, then it may be time for such drastic action.

Here are a few different ways to remove thatch from your lawn…

Mowing low

Getting in a couple of low-mows and gradually reducing the height of your lawn will reduce the thatch layer in your lawn. A good time to do this is towards the end of spring when the lawn is establishing quickly and will have time to recover. Do not do this in the cooler months as you will cause significant damage to your lawn and it will not be able to recover during winter.

Using a dethatching rake

Dethatching using a dethatching rake is one of the easiest and less invasive ways to remove some of this built up thatch. As you are raking the tines dig in and will be pulling the thatch and dead matter out from within the grass. If you have a substantial thatch build up however you may need to look at a more disruptive method.

Specialised dethatching machine (vertical cutter, verticutter, or power rake)

You can also hire or purchase specialised dethatching machines that make light work of removing the thatch layer. This can be a good option if you have a large lawn, or if the thatch layer is especially thick and hasn’t been tended to for a number of years.

Be sure to get the recommended cutting heights for your lawn type and follow the instructions the hire company provides.

After dethatching your lawn, it will be looking in pretty poor shape. Make sure you rake up all the loosened debris and give your lawn a fertilise to help it to recover.

Dethatching should only be done a couple of times a year and works only for warm-season grasses (Buffalo, Kikuyu, Couch and Zoysia) and should be avoided for cool-season types – fescue and the likes as this practice will probably spell the end of your lawn.

Attempting to dethatch your lawn too late into the growing season and your lawn won’t recover over winter, so if you’re unsure, seek some good advice from your local Lawn Solutions Australia turf supplier.

Unlike regular aeration, where solid tines simply punch holes in the ground, core aeration removes a plug of soil from your lawn at the same time. Plug or core aerators do this by using hollow tines that puncture the surface and then pull the plugs from the ground on their way back out.

Core aeration can be done with manual hand tools but is much easier to undertake with a specialised coring machine. The primary reason we need to undertake aeration, core aeration in particular, is to alleviate issues related to compaction. Compaction is a common problem for homeowners and can be caused by many factors including; regular foot traffic, driving on your lawn, sport activities and general use of your lawn. What compaction does is prevent oxygen, nutrient and water from being able to penetrate properly to the roots of your lawn, which in turn leads to poor lawn health. Core aeration is a great way to alleviate these compaction issues.

After core aeration, you will be left with lots of holes through the lawn where the plugs were removed, and the cores will be left behind on the surface of your lawn. These cores will breakdown over a couple of weeks and can be helped along with irrigation. If you don’t like the appearance and you want to break them down quicker, you can rake across them with the back of the rake, breaking them apart and allowing the dirt to fall back into the holes. Mowing over the plugs will also help break them apart and spread the dirt back into the profile. You can remove the plugs completely from your lawn if you prefer, but you will only be removing nutrients that would be much more beneficial put back in your soil profile.

Make sure you only core aerate when your grass is actively growing during the warmer months, so it can recover quickly. The best time to use a core aerator is when the soil is hydrated but not overly saturated with water. When the soil is dry it will crumble inside the tines, preventing proper removal of the cores from the ground. On the flip side, if the soil is too wet it will lodge itself inside the tines.

After coring your lawn is a great time to top dress with washed river sand. The sand will fill the holes and enable air and water to penetrate due to its free-draining, open structure.

Both Couch and Buffalo grasses are great performers, but how do you know if one variety is better suited to your area? In this blog, we look at the key characteristics of both couch and buffalo grasses to help you choose the right variety for your area.

Buffalo Grass

Buffalo grass is a warm-season grass, native to North and South America, parts of Africa, and the Caribbean. Most buffalo varieties on the market in Australia are soft leaf buffalo.

Buffalo grasses have a broadleaf and only have above-ground stems known as solons to establish from.

Couch Grass

Couch grass (sometimes called Bermuda) is a warm-season grass that is native to most areas of the eastern hemisphere. This grass will have a fast growth rate and is known to be highly drought and wear tolerant.

Couch grasses have a fine leaf. This grass grows from both above ground and below ground runners with a very strong growth habit.

Our Top Pick For Buffalo Grass

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo has been born and bred right here in Australia and has stood the test in time. Sir Walter DNA Certified will grow in full sun, in shade, is low maintenance, and has a high wear tolerance, great with pets and kids. This grass is soft to touch, feels great underfoot while looking fantastic!

Our Top Pick For Couch Grass

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda has a superior drought tolerance, is tough, and has a speedy recovery if damaged. TifTuf has a beautiful soft fine leaf, is well suited to full sun areas, is very drought tolerant, is great for use in high wear areas. This grass is a great choice for the home lawn whether you are wanting to keep an immaculate lawn or need grass to keep up with the pets and kids!

Shade Tolerance

Buffalo grasses have a broader leaf that can absorb more sunlight than other varieties. This helps make buffalo one of the most shade tolerant turf types, needing a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct light to thrive.

Most couch grasses have a finer leaf and love full sun areas. Couch needs a bare minimum of 5-6 hours of direct light to perform well.

Wear Tolerance

Wear tolerance does look at a few characteristics of the grass. These are how much traffic an area can handle before it gets damaged and how quickly it can repair itself if damage does occur.

Buffalo grasses can handle a good amount of traffic as they have very robust and hardy above-ground runners (stolons). However, they will be a bit slower to repair than other varieties like couch and kikuyu as the grass needs to spread back over the area with its above-ground stolons.

Couch grasses are too able to handle a good amount of traffic and have a fast-repairing nature. Their fast-repairing nature comes from having both above and below ground stolons to repair themselves from.

Mowing

When mowing both couch and buffalo it is best to never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade with each mow unless dethatching. This will help avoid causing any extra stress to the lawn.

Buffalo grasses are best mown between 20 to 60mm, a bit higher throughout winter and shorter throughout the warmer months. As buffalo is a warm-season variety it will need more frequent mows during the warmer months. In the cooler months, it will slow down in growth and may only need a mow once every few weeks.

Couch grasses do have a fast growth habit and will require more frequent mowing than buffalo varieties in the warmer months. It can be mown as short as 4mm or let to grow out to 36mm. Couch too is a warm-season variety, needing frequent mows in the warmer months.

Irrigation

Both couch and buffalo grasses do have a good drought tolerance. Once a lawn is established you should only need to water the lawn when it needs it. If you do need to irrigate, give the lawn a good soaking for around 30 mins. Once established less frequent watering’s for longer is usually best. This will help encourage your lawn to grow its roots deeper into the soil, improving its drought tolerance. Signs that your lawn needs water include wilting or drying out leaves. Buffalo grasses will also have a curled leaf.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is an extremely drought tolerant couch variety, requiring considerably less water to maintain its appearance. TifTuf is also the only grass in Australia to be awarded the Smart Approved WaterMark for its low water requirements.

With so many different types of grass available it can be difficult to know which one is right for you, your home, and your family. In this blog, we take a close look at both buffalo and zoysia grasses to help you find your perfect lawn.

Buffalo Grass

Buffalo grass is a warm-season grass, native to North and South America, parts of Africa, and the Caribbean. Most buffalo varieties on the market in Australia are soft leaf buffalo.

Buffalo grasses have a broadleaf, and only have above-ground stems known as solons to establish from.

Zoysia Grass

Zoysia is a warm-season grass native to Southeast Asia and the Pacific region. There are 3 main types of zoysia’s, Zoysia Macrantha, Zoysia Japonica and Zoysia Matrella.

Zoysia grasses have a relatively fine lead of up to 5mm wide and are spread by both above and below ground rhizomes and stolons.

Our top pick for buffalo grass

Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo has been born and bred right here in Australia and has stood the test in time. Sir Walter DNA Certified will grow in full sun, in shade, is low maintenance, and has a high wear tolerance, great with pets and kids. This grass is soft to touch, feels great underfoot while looking fantastic!

Our top pick for zoysia grass

Sir Grange Zoysia is a Zoysia Matrella that has a stunning fine leaf that has a beautiful dark green colour. It has a slow growth habit, can be mown short or left unmown, loves full sun and when once established has an excellent shade tolerance. Sir Grange has a densely matted leaf, great for that bowling green look and show garden.

Shade Tolerance

Buffalo grasses have a broader leaf that can absorb more sunlight than other varieties. This helps make buffalo one of the most shade tolerant turf types, needing a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct light to thrive.

Zoysia grasses have a much finer leaf and do need more sunlight than other varieties like buffalo. Most zoysia varieties need around 5 hours of direct sun. Sir Grange Zoysia does have a higher shade tolerance than other varieties once established, needing a minimum of 3-4 hours of direct light.

Wear Tolerance

Buffalo grasses can handle a good amount of traffic as they have very robust and hardy above-ground runners (stolons). However, they will be a bit slower to repair than other varieties like couch and kikuyu as the grass needs to spread back over the area with its above-ground stolons.

Zoysia grasses do also have a good wear tolerance. But as zoysia grasses stolons and rhizomes both do grow slower than other grasses they can take longer to repair once damaged.

Mowing

When mowing both couch and buffalo it is best to never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade with each mow unless dethatching. This will help avoid causing any extra stress to the lawn.

Buffalo grasses are best mown between 20 to 60mm, a bit higher throughout winter and shorter throughout the warmer months. As buffalo is a warm-season variety it will need more frequent mows during the warmer months. In the cooler months, it will slow down in growth and may only need a mow once every few weeks.

Zoysia grasses, Zoysia Matrella have a leaf blade that contains a high silicon content, making the leaf very strong. When mowing it is best to ensure your mower blades are sharp to help prevent tearing of the leaf. Zoysia’s are best mown between 5-50mm but can also be left unmown. As zoysia grasses are warm-season grasses, they will need to be mown more frequently throughout the warmer months.

Irrigation

When installing both buffalo and zoysia, you will need to keep the water up to the lawn, so its roots stay damp while avoiding the turf from becoming waterlogged and drying out. Once established you should only need to water the lawn as it needs. You should be able to tell if the lawn does need water if the leaves begin to wilt or dry out. Once established less frequent watering’s for longer is usually best. This will help encourage your lawn to grow its roots deeper into the soil, improving its drought tolerance.

Charlie Albone, landscaper designer and TV presenter knows a lot about lawns and gardens. But he wasn’t always involved in gardening and greenspace, he’s dabbled with a bit of painting and pouring pints as well!

The Lawn Solutions team recently caught up with Charlie to learn more about his story, plus he shares some insider tips for the garden.

Charlie first started getting into the landscaping at 18 while working in the UK. He was trying to save enough money working as a painter during the day and in a pub during the evening so that he could travel to Australia. During this time Charlie was working a 60-hour week for just 4 pounds an hour! When Charlie was on his way to work at the pub one night, he saw a car accident where a drunk driver had cut across the road and collided with the pillars of a large country house. After this, the driver then sped off. Charlie went to the house to see if they needed help. While talking with the owner he was offered a gardening job on the weekends. This then took Charlie’s already busy work week to a whopping 75 hours! “I remember the moment I fell in love with gardening.” This moment was when the owner of the property took him to an area of the garden where Snakeskin Fritillary was coming up on the lawn, “it took my breath away.”

From here Charlie Albone has been able to try most things in landscaping, maintenance, construction, and design. “I love how my business incorporates all aspects of these!”. Charlie has worked on so many amazing projects. “I loved both Chelsea Flower show gardens, especially the first one dedicated to my late father”. Charlie has also worked for the Shangri La hotel in Singapore. “It was a great project we designed and flew over to install in the lobby”. Charlie has loved many of the private projects he has done too. He tells us that he has a passion for “creating spaces that change the way families live and connect.”

In Charlie’s own backyard he has recently installed a new TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda lawn “I love fine leaf grasses and TifTuf is so hard-wearing it was a no brainer with two very active boys”. Charlie’s lawn care routine is currently all about the establishment. “For now, I’m keeping the water up to it and staying off it as much as possible. I’ll give it a cut soon and slowly bring the height down, to maintain it at a low level.” He loves his cylinder mower. “It has a certain charm to it while delivering great results, nothing beats a stripy lawn.” Any top tips for lawn care Charlie? “Mow more remove less.” This way you will prevent damage and stress, creating a much healthier lawn.

When creating formal designs Charlie likes to border lawns with box hedging as it doesn’t encroach and shade out the turf. For a more relaxed garden design, he prefers to use more strappy foliage plants like Arthropodium, Agapanthus or Beschorneria that can handle the sun but don’t grow too much over the edging, again to allow sunlight to the lawn.

Charlie loves fine leaf grasses like Sir Grange Zoysia and TifTuf as they give that formal manicured look. “These grasses are also incredibly hardy”. TifTuf is the only grass in Australia to have the Smart Approved WaterMark. Sir Grange for its all-round wearability. Each area of Charlie’s garden holds different memories. “The lawns are filled with memories of playing with the children, the small courtyard at the front is spent relaxing and the pergola has many experiences of entertaining with friends, family, and guests.”

Something that most people don’t know about Charlie Albone is that he was born and raised in Hong Kong for 12 years. “It’s not the place most people think a gardener would come from.” Charlie goes on to explain the amazing natural landscapes of the soaring green peaks and lush landscapes. “I love the juxtaposition of the landscape with the heavily built-up metropolis. I love it as a place to visit, but don’t think I could handle the pace full time.”

Charlie Albone’s motivation comes from his family. He is continually working to show his boys that things don’t come easily. This motivation comes from his father. “He was very hard working too, and I get my work ethic from him. I also love what I do, it’s much easier to work when it doesn’t feel like work.”

Written By An LSA Sports Turf Expert

Bowling Greens

Have you ever wondered how bowling green grass is maintained? Or have you wanted to create your own bowling green look in your garden? Well, here’s how it’s done…

What grass is used on bowling greens?

 Over the years bowling green surfaces have changed, but today the majority are Tifdwarf couch. Tifdwarf was bred by The University of Georgia in Tifton and have bred world-renowned ‘Tif’ couch grasses like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda and TifEagle. Tifdwarf is a fine leaf hybrid variety first brought into Australia around 50 years ago. It is a popular turf variety that is used across many sporting surfaces including golf putting greens, tennis courts, croquet courts, and bowling greens. Tifdwarf has a good drought, heat, and shade tolerance can be mown low and tolerates heavy traffic. It has good rooting capabilities and tolerance for close mowing. Tifdwarf has a soft leaf with few seed heads making it an ideal choice for playing surfaces.

There are also now a range of new greens grade zoysia varieties in the early release stage including Primo Zoysia and Trinity Zoysia. These turf varieties are specifically bred for golf course greens and tees, both holding a dense growth habit.

Bowling green construction

Most bowling greens are 38m x 38m and constructed on a gravel base, with parallel drainage and at least 300-400mm of suitable sand growing profile. Each profile is carefully levelled with a final laser level on the surface. This helps ensure the playing surface has a billiard table flatness.

Planting of a bowling green 

Bowling greens are planted using sprigs that are evenly disturbed across the surface. On average 400kg of sprigs is used to cover the 38m x 38m area. Depending on growing conditions and nutrient inputs from planting to first playing, the establishment could vary from around 8 to 14 weeks.

Bowling green mowing

Once covered, the fun of preparation and maintaining the green starts. Most bowling clubs use a Queen mower or the newer models from Aus Turf Machinery (ATM). These mowers are electric and have a 30’’ cut and can cut down as low as a thickness of a 5-cent piece. The important part of bowling green maintenance is the surface. Less thatch and tighter the surface, the faster the ball rolls for the players.

Regular grooming during the growing months removes thatch build-up and encourages new leaves to form on the surface, mowing is completed daily and, in some cases, double-cut or twice a day. The cutting height can vary from the thickness of a 5-cent piece to a 20-cent piece. The secret in turf management is when removing grass or thatch it needs to be replaced with a new leaf. So small amounts of liquid fertiliser regularly are the standard application.

Maintenance

To keep bowling greens in top condition, they are normally renovated annually. This renovation process involves scarifying, aerating, fertilising, and top dressing the green. When this happens on the bowling greens, the bowlers will have a break for a 6-to-8-week period while this spring renovation work is carried out.

Achieving the ‘bowling green look’ at home

The secret to bowling green grass is regular mowing with a cylinder mower, grooming or dethatching, and small regular amounts of fertiliser. Like bowling greens and other sporting surfaces, regular maintenance is key.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda can deliver similar results to Tifdwarf in the backyard when regularly maintained. TifTuf can be mown as low as 10mm, resulting in a similar finish. It has a dense growth and fine leaf blade, ideal for being mown low regularly.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda is the latest in turf technology out of the Tifton Campus at the University of Georgia. The Tifton campus is home to the same turf breeding program facility that has developed Tifdwarf and other turf varieties including TifEagle, TifGreen, TifSport, TifWay… the list goes on! The Tifton Campus is continually working to breed the best grasses to be used both domestically and on the sporting field.

Sir Grange Zoysia is another great choice when it comes to low mowing. It too has a dense growth habit but can hold a stunning dark green colour. Sir Grange does have a slower growth rate, but this does reduce the number of times your lawn needs to be mown. Sir Grange can be mown as short as 10mm to unmown, looking great cut at any length!

With regular maintenance and the right turf variety, you too can achieve that perfect bowling green finish for your lawn.

Some bugs are good, some bugs are great! But how do you know what type of bugs are bad for your lawn? We’ve put together a guide on what bugs you should leave in your lawn and what you should look out for.

Good Guys

Bees

Bees are one of the most important insects in our environment due to their ability to pollinate our plants. This allows plants to reproduce becoming a food source for many other animals including us!

These guys won’t cause any damage to your lawn, and if you keep out of their way, they should leave you alone too! Fun Fact, bees will sometimes have a nap in a flower when they become tired from gathering pollen!

Lady Beetles

Lady beetles are a beautiful sight to see and are one of the best insects you can encourage in your garden. Lady beetles will help keep the population of aphids at a manageable level so that they won’t cause damage. Lady beetles will also eat a range of other soft-bodied insects like mealy bugs which can cause damage to your lawn. Before the lady beetles turn into their bright red colours they start life out as larvae. The larvae will then turn into the red beetle we know them as.

Earthworms

Earthworms are pleasant little critters that are excellent for the health of your lawn! They will work beneath the turf aerating your soil and breaking down thatch. If you do happen to have these guys in the soil of your lawn, it means that you have a good amount of organic material and nutrients in your soil. When there is an increased amount of moisture within the soil earthworms will rise to the surface and leave a casting. These are also known as mud balls on top of the soil. These castings can affect the appearance of your lawn, especially if there is a heap of them. However, when these castings are dry you can simply rake them across the lawn.

Praying Mantis

Praying mantises are one of the more intriguing insects that you may find in your garden. Their front legs are held up, similar to a praying position and their legs are designed specifically for catching prey. These guys target flies, crickets, grasshoppers, spiders, aphids, small frogs, lizards, and mice. Praying Mantis’ are the only insects that can turn their heads to the side at a 180-degree angle!

Bad Guys

Army Worm

Armyworm is a pest that can cause great damage to a lawn within a matter of days. They will tend to move in large numbers across lawns, devastating the plant material they leave behind. They will completely scalp the green leaf growth of the grass and will continue this throughout the whole lawn. Armyworms vary from 2mm to 40mm in length (varying depending on how mature they are). They have 3 prominent white or cream stripes running down the back and side of their bodies. If you do notice that your lawn has armyworm, it is important to act fast to prevent further damage throughout your whole lawn. Treatment options for armyworm include Baythroid Advanced Insect killer for lawns, Grub Guard, Richgrow Grub Killa Hose On and Amgrow Lawn Pest Control.

Lawn Grubs

Black beetles on your lawn are a common sight and are a natural part of your garden’s ecosystem. These beetles won’t cause damage to your lawn, but their larvae and grubs in large numbers will. They will cause most of their damage when the temperatures are warmer, from September to march. Their grubs and larvae are treated in similar ways to armyworms. If you see black beetles on your lawn, there is no need to use an insecticide. But if there are larvae on the lawn and there are visible signs of damage it is then best to use an insecticide. We recommend including Baythroid Advanced Insect killer for lawns, Grub Guard, Richgrow Grub Killa Hose On and Amgrow Lawn Pest Control.

Mole Cricket

Mole crickets are common but are rarely seen as they tunnel through the soil, eating at the roots of your lawn. As these insects burrow down in the soil, they can be difficult to treat as an insecticide needs to be washed down into their burrows to make contact with them.

Insecticides

Acelepryn GR is an ideal choice for long term pest control. It provides safe and effective control of damaging causing bugs like armyworms for up to six months while minimising the impact on non-target organisms like bees and earthworms.

Couch Grass

(Cynodon Dactylon)

Couch grass (known as Bermuda grass in the US) is a warm season grass that is native to most areas of the eastern hemisphere. These grasses are commonly known to be highly drought and wear tolerant.

A manicured couch lawn can look great in front of your home, however a bit more time and effort is required due its fast growth rate.

Key Characteristics

Couch grass thrives in full sun areas and has very strong horizontal growth. This allows it to tolerate very low mowing heights. These strong growth habits also attribute to its ability to handle high amounts of traffic, whilst enabling it to recover quicker if affected by wear and stress. This makes couch turf suitable for large areas such as sports fields, golf courses and parks or recreational areas.

These grasses can grow in a range of soil types, from sandy soils to light clays and prefer a pH between 6 and 7.5.

Couches are not one of the most shade tolerant turf types, needing in most cases a bare minimum of 5-6 hours direct sunlight a day. Newer varieties however, like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda (couch) have shown significantly better shade tolerance than existing couches varieties.

Couch grasses have a great ability to recover from wear, with underground stems called rhizomes to repair from as well as aboveground stems called stolons.

Important points for installation of couch grass

Install the grass as soon as possible after delivery

• Lay on a bed of 50 to 100mm of quality turf underlay
• Launcher fertiliser is not recommended during the peak growing season (Sept to March)
• Roll to compact new turf to improve contact with the soil
• Soak the newly laid turf thoroughly for 10 to 14 days after installation or until fully established
• Reduce irrigation once established and water only when the grass appears dry
• Mow as soon as the grass has rooted in to promote lateral growth. This could be as early as 3 to 5 days after installation during the warmer months.

Couch Grass Maintenance

Irrigation

Couch grasses naturally have a good drought tolerance. TifTuf Hybrid Bermudain particular is an extremely drought tolerant couch variety, requiring considerably less water to maintain acceptable growth and appearance. TifTuf is the only couch grass, or grass of any type for that matter in Australia to have been awarded the Smart Approved WaterMark for its low water requirements.

• If watering is necessary once established, water only when there are signs of the grass drying out, as excess irrigation can hinder the grass rather than help
• Do not overwater in the cooler months
• If irrigation is needed, water deeply to soak the top 100mm of soil
• Water early morning for improved efficiency and plant health

Mowing

Couch turf’s growth habit allows it to be mown at a range of heights. They can be kept as low as 4mm or let to grow out to 36mm depending on the usage requirements. If a couch lawn is left for long periods without mowing, caution must be taken not to take too much leaf at once.

• Ensure mower blades are sharp
• Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf at any one time unless dethatching
• Mowing frequency can be reduced with controlled irrigation and fertiliser
• Couch grasses are best kept between 9mm and 36mm in home lawns; below 25mm is recommended for best appearance
• If excess scalping occurs, increase mowing height, and allow leaf to regrow to desired level
• If needed, dethatch in early spring for best results

Fertilising

Couch grasses perform their best when fertilised regularly throughout the year. It is important to consider whole of plant health when applying fertiliser and to avoid the over-stimulation of leaf growth with excessive nitrogen, particularly during the warmer months.

• Liquid iron, natural colourants and other micronutrients can improve colour without the use of nitrogen-based fertilisers
• Add nutrients in measured amounts and monitor growth and health of the grass before reapplying

TifTuf was specifically bred to require less inputs than other warm season grasses. TifTuf requires less than 1/3 the amount of fertiliser to maintain healthy growth and appearance.

Weed and pest control

The rapid coverage and dense undergrowth of couch turf, along with its low input requirements and winter growth activity mean that couch can compete quite successfully with weeds and other turf grass species that may try to invade your lawn.

Couch grass also resists several pests and diseases but may need some assistance from time to time. A couch lawn can be treated with most commonly available chemicals that are suitable for couch grasses. Ensure application directions are followed and if unsure, it is always a good idea to check with your Lawn Solutions Australia supplier for chemical compatibility before use.

Lawn Solutions Australia supplies TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda (couch grass) which is the only grass in Australia to be Smart WaterMark Approved for drought tolerance. This makes it the best choice in couch turf for our harsh Australian climate.

Weed wands and weed pullers are a great way to remove unwanted weeds from your lawn. To help you know when you should use each of these, we have put together a guide on the dos and don’ts of weed pullers and weed wands.

Weed Wands

Firstly, let’s look at what weed wands are and when they are best used. Weed wands are a stick that disperses herbicides to a small, selected area of your lawn. These sticks are usually around 1 metre tall, eliminating the need for you to bend or kneel to treat weeds. Weed wands are used to precisely apply herbicides. They are mostly used in situations where there are no herbicides that will selectively treat the weed or grass without harming your lawn, like invasive grasses and hard to remove weeds like onion weed. Non-selective herbicides like roundup are poured into the wand and are dispersed by an applicator on the end of the wand.

The weed wand applicator will usually look like a small paintbrush and will disperse the herbicide to the weed. When using these, it is best to dab the product onto the weed instead of using a sweeping motion to allow for a more accurate application.

Pros

• Weed wands have a small applicator, allowing for accuracy upon application.
• Weed wands are best used with a non-selective herbicide that contains glyphosate, like roundup. Non-selective herbicides will kill everything that they touch. This can be handy if you do not know what type of weed you are treating.
• The weed wand applicator is on the end of the stick so there is no need to bend or kneel.

Cons

• When using a weed wand, you will need to be careful to only apply the product to the weed you are wanting to treat and not your lawn as it will kill it too.
• As the weed wand is on the end of a stick, you will have less control of where the applicator will go.

Yates Weed Wand

One of our favourite weed wands is the Yates weed wand. This weed wand comes with a handy screw-on safety cap which is great for when the wand isn’t in use. The wand has a specially designed valve on the brush that prevents any of the product from leaking into your lawn when moving between weeds across your lawn.

Weed Pullers

There is a wide range of weed pullers that are available on the market. Some are small handheld pullers; some have serrated edges making them easier to use in different soil types and some are stand-up pullers stopping you from bending and kneeling. Most will pull the entire plant and root system out. While most weeds can be pulled out, there are some you shouldn’t. Have a look at our blog here for more information on weeds you shouldn’t remove by hand.

Pros

• Weed pullers do not require herbicides. This is particularly handy for those wanting to keep their garden organic.
• Is one of the easiest and quickest ways to remove weeds from your lawn!
• The right tool will be able to remove the roots of the entire weeds.
• Stand-up weed pullers don’t require you to bend over or kneel to remove weeds.
• You won’t run the risk of accidentally killing your lawn.

Cons

• Some weed pullers will not be able to remove the entire root system of the weed.
• Can be time-consuming.
• Hand-held pullers require you to bend and kneel to remove weeds.

Fiskars Weed Puller

The Fiskars Weed Puller is one of the most popular weed pullers on the market. It is light and easy to use. With this, you don’t need to bend or kneel to remove weeds. The puller has deep-reaching claws that can pull out all the weeds’ roots. This puller is best used in soft soil, where there is little compaction and clay.

Zoysia Grass

Pronunciation

Zoi see uh

Zoysia grass are warm season grasses that are native to South East Asia and the Pacific region. These grasses are commonly known to be highly drought and wear tolerant.

Zoysia is a turfgrass type that has several different sub-genus, all of which carry very different characteristics and aesthetics to the next. While they still do carry the name botanically in a lot of marketing material, it is important to understand the difference when looking at the different options available.

Key Characteristics

Most Zoysia grass types are well-adapted to tropical, sub-tropical and warm temperate climates in Australia.

• Establish slower than most other grass types.
• Zoysia Grass has a relatively fine leaf up to 5mm wide and 40-50mm long which is soft to touch.
• Zoysia grasses spread both by stolons and by rhizomes and are noted for their relatively slow growth rate which reduces the frequency that mowing is needed.

What are the main zoysia turf types?

Zoysia Macrantha

Zoysia Macrantha’s are the only zoysia that is considered Australian natives and are commonly referred to the as prickly couch. Some examples of Macrantha which are available on the Australian market are Nara Native Zoysia and Stockade Native. Macrantha generally performs better in the warmer climates of Australia and in full sun areas. Macrantha’s leaf shape and colour varies depending on the variety but are medium to coarse and light green in colour. The wear tolerance and shade tolerance of Zoysia Macrantha’s are inferior to the other types of zoysia.

Zoysia Japonica

Zoysia Japonica originates and is native to the coastal grasslands of South East Asia. Japonica’s have been introduced and used as a popular choice for home lawns and public areas around the world. The common types of Zoysia Japonica which are available around Australia are Empire Zoysia and Platinum Zoysia. Japonica’s have a medium leaf texture, fair shade and wear tolerance and again are more suited to the warmer climates of Australia. Zoysia Japonica’s will struggle through the colder months in southern areas of Australia.

Zoysia Matrella

Like Japonica’s, Zoysia Matrella’s are native to South East Asia. Unlike their Japonica counterparts, Matrella’s have a very fine leaf and have high shade tolerance. Until just recently, Matrella’s were primarily used in golf, but now their qualities have proven they are perfect for home lawns and commercial applications. They require less mowing, less fertiliser, less water and have a higher density than the other zoysia’s. Matrella’s that are on the Australian market include Sir Grange (Zeon Zoysia) and Shadetuff. Zoysia Matrella can be successfully installed all around Australia and make for a fantastic lawn both domestically and commercially.

Important points for installation of zoysia grass

• Install the grass as soon as possible after delivery
• Lay on a bed of at least 150mm quality sandy loam (high sand content is essential) or washed sand
• Use Lawn Solutions Australia Lawn Launcher at label rates to give the grass
• a head start and retain moisture in the new soil bed
• Roll to compact new turf to improve contact with the soil
• For the first 14 days, irrigate the new lawn for at least 40 mins every day
• After the initial 14 days post-installation, you can reduce irrigation to every second day for the next 14 days
• Reduce irrigation once established and water only when the grass appears dry
• Minimise irrigation in the cooler months to avoid your lawn getting waterlogged
• Consult your local supplier for seasonal advice on installation timing in cooler regions

Maintenance of Zoysia Grass

Irrigation

If watering is necessary once established, water only when there are signs of the grass drying out, e.g. wilted leaves

• Do not overwater in the cooler winter months
• If irrigation is needed, deeply soak the top 100mm of soil
• Water early morning for improved efficiency and plant health

Mowing

Zoysia grasses, Zoysia Matrella in particular, have a leaf blade that has a high silicone content, which makes it very strong. This, along with its dense vertical growth, gives grasses like Sir Grange superior surface strength and appearance.

• Ensure that mower blades are sharp to prevent tearing of the leaf
• Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any one time unless dethatching
• For best results, dethatch in late winter just before the grass comes out of dormancy
• Remove clippings each mow to prevent thatch build-up

Fertilising

• Fertilise between early spring and mid to late summer if required
• It is not recommended to fertilise in autumn, wait until spring to reapply if needed
• Liquid iron, natural colourants and micronutrients can be used to improve colour without the use of nitrogen-based fertilisers in autumn and winter

Weed and pest control

Most commercially available chemical weed and pest control products can be used on zoysia lawns, but it is always best to read the label and check with your Lawn Solutions Australia grower for recommended products before any application.

Lawn Solutions Australia supplies Sir Grange Zoysia which has been selectively bred for its superior drought and shade tolerance, as well as reduced need for additional nutrients. Sir Grange has been hand-selected from over 10,000 different varieties of turf, with its superior qualities making it stand out from the crowd.

Sir Grange was originally developed for the golf industry, but it was soon discovered that due to its characteristics, it would make a fantastic home lawn. Its adaptability to a variety of climates in combination with the beautiful dark green leaf has seen it become the top-selling zoysia grass in the USA.