Category: Seasonal Advice

Advice on watering lawns can differ substantially depending on who you ask, and more often than not, more water is used than is required.

How do you know if you are watering your new lawn enough?

Providing water to your new lawn is so important to ensure that it gets off to the best possible start. A new lawn that has been correctly watered will have deep roots, consistent colour and health. This will ensure that you create a lawn that is resilient, hardy and drought tolerant. Once established, in times of low to zero rainfall over an extended period, your lawn will survive to thrive again when it receives the moisture that it needs.

Watering New Lawns

Only freshly laid turf needs to be watered a couple of times a day, every day, for the first couple of weeks. Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established.

Important tips for new lawns:

• Water a few times a day, every day for the first couple of weeks
• Water in the mornings and throughout the day as required
• Keep the ‘feet’ of the turf damp at all times to help the roots establish into the soil
• Water the new turf evenly using a sprinkler or irrigation system

The key thing you are trying to achieve is moisture in the soil down to a depth of 150mm. This will ensure your roots establish into soil easily and it provides the moisture it needs as it goes. Keeping the ‘feet’ of your new turf wet is paramount. This will mean checking on your new turf a few times a day to make sure that the soil is still damp and hasn’t completely dried out. Reacting to this and adjusting the frequency of watering to coincide with the current weather conditions will help to give the lawn every possible chance of staying healthy and robust.

A common problem that we see is where new turf simply hasn’t been watered enough. The lawn stunts in growth and doesn’t establish its roots into the soil. From there it is an uphill battle to get it where you need it. Signs that your turf isn’t getting the water it needs include yellowing across the entire roll, curling or wilted leaves, no lateral growth or when lifted there are no visible white roots establishing into the soil.

How do I know if my new turf is getting enough water?

Ask yourself how much water is my lawn getting? If your answer is plenty or a lot, you probably need to delve a little deeper into the specifics. What are you using to water? When are you watering? For how long and at what time of day? Putting a few catch cups around the area when the irrigation is on will give you a good idea of how much water your new turf is receiving and how evenly.

If you notice consistent discolouration across the entire turf roll or slab, it is likely you are not watering enough. If the discolouration is limited to the edges where the turf was cut, this is considered normal. This part of the turf is more likely to dry out quicker and be in more stress from being cut. You can top dress the joins of your new turf to limit this. Ultimately as long as you provide the turf with enough water for it to stay green and hydrated, as the turf begins to grow laterally the dry edges will disappear and look a lot healthier.

Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering, depending on the weather and the climate in your region. Signs that your turf is establishing include turf becoming less easily lifted, colour across the turf remains green, vertical leaf growth is consistent and lateral growth is slowly reducing the visibility of the lines between each roll.

Perform spot checks after three weeks to determine if the turf can be lifted. If it can in certain areas and not others, chances are its roots are shallower in those areas; these spots will need to catch up with the assistance of additional deep watering during establishment.

Watering Established Lawns

Water is an important element in your lawn care and maintenance program. With a clever choice of lawn and the correct preparation you can keep watering to a minimum once your lawn is established.

Choose a drought tolerant turf variety

The easiest way to limit the amount you need to water your lawn, is to put in a drought tolerant turf variety in the first place.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda has recently received certification and is the first and only turfgrass to ever receive the Smart Approved WaterMark in Australia and across the world. In the US, TifTuf will now automatically be approved for the ‘Water Sense’ program. This means TifTuf is the first turf grass not just in Australia, but throughout the world, to receive recognition to this level of water saving efficiency.

Click here to learn more.

A common question we get asked here at Lawn Solutions Australia is, “how do I know if I am watering my lawn enough?” – The answer to this question can be quite different due to a variety of factors.

Some of these factors include:

• The climate in your area and the season
• Water restrictions
• Access to and cost of water
• Your soil type and its ability to absorb and hold water
• Lawn variety and its drought tolerance
• Environmental factors such as how much sun, shade, wind or heat there is in your garden and your area
• The health of your lawn

Make sure your sprinkler can cover the lawn evenly, regardless of whether it’s a manual shift or automatic sprinkler system. Be sure that no areas hold water and they are all drained well.

When should I water my lawn?

The simple answer is – when your lawn needs it. It is important that you only irrigate when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. When you do water, do so within the rules outlined by local water restrictions.

If you water your lawn 3 times a week at 8am every single week regardless of the weather or moisture content of the soil, it’s very likely you are overwatering your lawn. This will lead to shallow roots and a lawn that has been taught to expect regular watering, so without it, it will turn its ‘toes’ and begin to struggle during even the shortest of periods without moisture.

Most common lawn types in Australia can survive extended periods of drought. They will lose colour, becoming brown and dry, with little to no leaf growth, but they will generally sit dormant until the next rain or irrigation event.

A common misconception is that a drought tolerant lawn won’t go brown. Drought tolerance relates to a turf varieties ability to recover after extended periods without irrigation. Some grasses will survive in extreme conditions with minimal water, but not look their best, while others will look better for longer, but can die without adequate water.

How do I know if my lawn needs watering? Just look for the tell-tale signs:

• Leaf is wilting or losing colour.
• If you walk across your lawn and leave a footprint behind, then your lawn is likely lacking in water. If it bounces back, your lawn should be well hydrated. This is known as the footprint test.
• During hot weather, if it’s dry and crusty, taking on a brown colour, there’s a good chance it needs water.

The best time to water your lawn is early morning or late in the afternoon/early evening. This is when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat related evaporation. In humid areas, avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal diseases. Early morning is best.

By utilising these tips, you can ensure your freshly laid turf or fully established lawn have the ideal amount of moisture and all water consumption is limited to what is required and effective.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Which Lawn Trends Are Worth the Hype?

If you are in the lawn care community, you may have heard of different product types and wondered if they are all there are talked up to be. In this blog, we look at a few popular lawn care trends and assess if they are worth the hype surrounding them.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR’s)

Plant growth regulators will suppress your lawns vertical growth and increase the lawns lateral growth. This helps the grass to become denser while reducing the number of times you need to mow. This product is used throughout the warmer months when the grass is actively growing to help reduce mowing.

PGRs are only recommended for use in the warmer months and should be avoided in winter. As PGRs are more of a commercial-style product, you will need to calibrate your sprayer for application. Check out our blog here for more information on how to calibrate your sprayer.

If you struggle to keep up with regular mows in the warmer months or want to take your lawn to another level, PGRs are a great option. We recommend using PGR Primo Maxx.

Pre-emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides will stop stubborn weeds before they appear in your lawn. They work by creating a barrier at the soil level, stopping any new weed seedlings in their tracks. They are ideal for controlling seasonal weeds like Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crab Grass, and Creeping Oxalis. However, one thing to note – is that pre-emergents won’t treat weeds that are present in your lawn but will prevent further seasonal weeds from growing.

Pre-emergents are perfect to use if you want to help prevent weed invasions in your lawn. We recommend using pre-emergent Oxafert.

Battery Powered Fertiliser Spreaders

Battery-powered spreaders are another great popular lawn care trend. They will assist in spreading out granular lawn care products across your lawn, ensuring you have even product coverage. The advantage of battery-powered spreaders over manual handheld spreaders is that you don’t need to turn the handle to disperse the product, which may cause hand cramps over a larger area. When using a battery spreader, you will also be able to cover your area quicker than with a manual handheld spreader.

If you have a larger area size, battery spreaders like the Ryobi One+ fertiliser Spreader and the Ozito PXC 18V Fertiliser Spreader are ideal (batteries sold separately). However, a manual handheld spreader will still do an adequate job if you only have a small area.

Liquid Fertilisers

Liquid fertilisers can provide a quick boost of nutrients to your lawn. They do this as the leaves and roots of your grass absorb the fertiliser. However, when using liquid fertilisers you will need to apply them more frequently for results over a longer period.

Liquid fertilisers are ideal for lawns that are already in shape but are looking for a quick boost. For liquid fertilising, we recommend using Exceed Liquid Fertiliser.

If your lawn is in poor shape and you are wanting to help give the lawn a sustained boost over a longer period of time, we recommend using a granular fertiliser, like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser.

Ozito Cylinder Mower

If you are following any lawn care pages, you have probably seen the hype around this mower. The steel cylinder blades can provide a clean and precise cut like the bigger, much more pricey cylinder mowers on the market. The Ozito mowers adjustable cutting height is between 14-38mm, cutting a bit higher than larger cylinder mowers. The Ozito Cylinder Mower is battery-powered. Please note you do need to buy the rechargeable battery separately. This battery is also compatible with many other Ozito home and garden tools.

For its price point, it is a great alternative from the bigger cylinder mowers. It can provide a much cleaner cut than other rotary mowers around the same price point. It is easy to use, manoeuvre, clean, and store. Although the roller attached can be a bit light, we have seen a few people adding a steel roller attachment allowing for better stripes.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

100 Million Metres of Sir Walter Sold

Sir Walter Buffalo today is an iconic ‘Aussie’ brand and is undoubtedly the most successful turf variety in Australian history.

Did you know Sir Walter has reached a sales milestone in the Australian turf industry? Sir Walter has passed the 100 million metres sold mark, an achievement no other buffalo grass or grass has ever achieved! This makes it the greatest selling grass of all time.

To put this into perspective, if you laid this much Sir Walter in a line it would be able to cover the entire circumference of the moon almost 10 times over. Or in terms of Australia, it would be like driving all the way around Australia’s coastline almost 4 times. It’s a truly extraordinary amount of grass.

The Birth of Sir Walter

Brent Redman discovered the great “Sir Walter” in the NSW Hunter Valley in 1996. Brent grew buffalo grasses on his farm, but there were always particular issues that prevented them from achieving high quality. This was until Brent noticed a small area on his farm where an off type was growing. This off type maintained a greener winter colour, had a healthier root system and it was taking over the existing buffalo. Brent realised the potential of this new variety and began propagating the grass to protect the purity and integrity of the variety. From these first few square metres, the superstar that would become known as Sir Walter was born.

The rest is history as they say, with Sir Walter being expanded and produced right across Australia through a network of licensed turf suppliers.

With Greatness Comes Great Responsibility

As a result of the success Sir Walter achieved, deception and substitution by competitors has occurred. Many varieties over the years have claimed to be ‘just like’, ‘same as’ or ‘bred from’ Sir Walter. None of which is true, which is why there needed to be a way to ensure the Sir Walter that consumers were buying was genuine.

To remedy this, Sir Walter supplied by accredited and licensed suppliers is now known as Sir Walter DNA Certified. This extension of the Sir Walter name was developed to provide the assurance to consumers that the Sir Walter they are buying is DNA tested and the genuine product. This turf matches the original breeder Sir Walter plant material bred at Brent Redmans farm developed over 20 years ago.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Hot and dry weather can really take a toll on even the healthiest lawns and cause them to become thin and patchy. This usually happens over the summer months, as the weather is hot and dry and lawn owners are generally on holidays or too busy to keep up their regular lawn maintenance schedule. It only takes a couple of days of hot, dry weather to affect your lawn.

Usually what you will see is bare patches throughout the lawn or your lawn would’ve started to thin out and change colour. What follows this, is those bare patches bake in the sun and become rock hard making it difficult for water and nutrients to get into the soil. This is commonly known as dry patch and appears regularly in lawns throughout the summer. Thankfully it is treatable and is relatively easy to fix.

First things first, it is always recommended you aerate the affected area of your lawn. Aeration can be done with a garden fork, aerator sandals or a specialised aerator depending on the size of the lawn. This is crucial as it will de-compact your soil and will help nutrients and water penetrate your lawn.

Next, apply a wetting agent like Lawn Soaker to the affected area. Wetting agents come in liquid and granular forms and assist with water absorbing into your soil. This will also allow the soil to hold water in a usable manner for longer. Always remember to irrigate your lawn well after applying the wetting agent.

After this, it is time to stimulate your lawns growth to allow it to self-repair and cover back over. This is best done by applying an NPK fertiliser to the entire lawn and irrigating the lawn well afterwards. Always remember to apply all products at label rates and follow all instructions.

There are steps you can take to reduce the suffering.

• Choose a drought tolerant variety.
• Carry out good soil improvement practices prior to installing.
• Water your lawn correctly, less frequent, deeper soakings to encourage deep roots.
• If possible, give your lawn one deep soaking at the first sign of any heat and drought and then leave it until it starts to wilt, repeating the process as necessary. This will be more frequent in sandy soils.
• Increase the mowing height – slightly longer lawns shade the soil, reducing evaporation and stress.

Always check and abide by the relevant water restrictions in your area as these vary greatly around the country.

How long can your lawn survive without water? Read more here.

Dry patches in your lawn can sometimes be a sign of something else happening with the lawn or soil. Some of the most common reasons for dry patch (dead spots) to occur are:

 

1. Heat exposure (varied area sizes and shapes) – normally a combination of foot traffic, incorrect or insufficient watering practices, lack of water absorption (hydrophobic soil), reflective heat sources, direct heat over exposure.

2. Dog urine burns (up to 20cm areas and varied shapes).

3. Turf pest damage (varied area sizes and shapes).

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

So, your new lawn is now installed, and you’re unsure what to do next? This blog covers a few simple steps on how to care for your new lawn.

Watering For a New Lawn

Ensuring your lawn has enough water, especially for the first few days after installation, is essential to help stop the grass roots from drying out.

For the first few days after receiving your lawn, you will need to irrigate more frequently. This is because the grass roots won’t have had the chance to grow into the soil. The duration and number of times you need to water will depend on a few factors, including temperatures, location, and rainfall.

As a general guide, you want to ensure your grass roots stay damp. If you are experiencing lots of rainfall in your area, you may not need additional irrigation. However, if your temperatures are hotter without rainfall, you may need to irrigate a few times a day.

For more information on watering your lawn, it is best to reach out to your local turf supplier. They will be familiar with the current weather conditions and local area.

Once the roots of your lawn have established into the soil, you can start reducing the number of times you need to irrigate. Once your lawn is fully established, you should only need to irrigate when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. Some tell-tale signs that your lawn needs water are:

• Leaf is wilting or losing colour.
• If you walk across your lawn and leave a footprint behind, then your lawn is likely lacking in water. If it bounces back, your lawn should be well hydrated. This is known as the footprint test.
• During hot weather, if it’s looking dry.

Mowing Your Lawn For the First Time

Your new lawn should be ready for its first mow once the grass roots grow into the soil profile. To see if it is ready, try lifting the corner of a turf roll from the ground. It is ready to mow if you can’t lift the roll from the ground.

With your first mow, raise the mower’s height so only the top of the leaf blade is removed. Then, slowly bring the height back to your preferred mowing height over the next few mows.

Should I Fertilise My New Lawn

Once the lawn has been down for 6 – 8 weeks, it will be ready for its first fertiliser application. For fertilising a new lawn we recommend using a well-balanced fertiliser, like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This contains all the nutrients your lawn needs to thrive over the coming months and is safe to use on lawn types.

If you want to apply products during the lawns first few weeks, you can use a soil conditioner like Lawn Kelper, this will help stimulate and strengthen roots and shoots.

Can I Use Herbicides on a New Lawn?

If you notice weeds starting to grow in your new lawn, it is best to hold off from using herbicides till the lawn has fully established. However, most lawn weeds should be able to be removed by hand.

If we haven’t touched on any inquiries you have about caring for your new lawn, reach out to your local turf supplier, or get in contact with the Lawn Solutions Team.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

As each turf type has a different seed head, it can sometimes be difficult to know what a seed head is and what is a weed. In this blog, we look at what seed heads look like in different grass types, why they grow, and how to help stop them from growing.

They will usually only appear in lawns for a few weeks a year, usually when the temperatures are changing. Although they do have a tough feel underfoot, they won’t cause any damage to your lawn.

Buffalo 

Buffalo seed heads will grow from the runner, also known as stolon. The seed head will be thicker with exposed seeds and will feel tough. They also have a very similar appearance to asparagus. They usually grow at the same height or just above your lawns leaf height.

Most buffalo seeds are sterile. This means that the grass cannot be spread by its seed.

Couch 

Couch seed heads too can be mistaken as weeds. They can be green to purple in colour and will grow on a stem above the grass level. At the top of the stem, there will be a cluster of spikes (usually two to six spikes) that hold the seeds. These spikes are around two to five cm long.

Most turf sold as a solid turf variety like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda and Nullarbor Couch will produce a sterile seed head that cannot spread.

Kikuyu

Kikuyu’s grows pollen sacs that extend above the grass leaf on white filaments, and are often mistaken as a web. These filaments will grow in a cluster of 2-4 flower spikelets. Kikuyu seeds are produced within the leaf sheath, and are not visible.

Zoysia

Zoysia seed heads will either be white or purple in colour. They will feel ‘tough’ to touch and will come from one stem with small flowers that hold the seeds.

Why has my lawn gone to seed?

Seed heads start to grow for 2 main reasons.

The first being a change in seasons. Seasonal changes can cause a bit of stress on the lawn. In most varieties this will occur once or twice a year.

The second is that your lawn is lacking something. This will usually be water or nutrients

How to help stop seed heads

If your lawn has gone to seed, in most cases the grass will stop producing seeds over the coming weeks. The best way to help stop your lawn from going to seed is through regular mowing, watering, and fertilising.

When mowing, only remove one third of the leaf blade off at once to help reduce plant stress. In the warmer months, you may be required to mow at least once a week depending on your climate and turf variety. Watering your lawn less frequently for longer is best. For fertilising, a slow-release granular fertiliser that has a good ratio of NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser is ideal to help encourage strong growth for a healthy lawn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A plant growth regulator (PGR) like Primo Maxx will limit your lawns vertical growth and can help reduce the number of seed heads that your lawn produces. Regular mowing, twice a week, and the use of a PGR at full rates will minimise the seed head from flowering.

pH test

If your lawns seed heads don’t go away after a few weeks after increasing watering, fertilising, regular mowing, and aerating, it is worth doing a soil pH test.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Get the right curve during spring growth surge

Has your lawn had a strong lift in its growth? This is your lawn’s spring growth surge.

Spring is the time when the flowers are blooming, and your gardens are beginning to sing. Your lawn responds to consistent higher temperatures in spring just like the flowers and plants in your garden.

What is spring growth surge?

Spring Surge Growth is created by warmer temperatures which assist the soil temperature to increase. With the addition of water and fertiliser, your lawn will break the winter dormancy and it will increase in leaf growth and root production.

It is important during this time that you maintain an even growth curve without over fertilising – excessive fertiliser causes excessive leaf growth and grass clippings which is obviously not preferable to achieving a low maintenance lawn.

The best lawn care pattern for spring involves the following:

• Aerate the soil profile to assist with even water movement throughout the roots of your lawn. (This will be easier if there is some moisture in the soil, so shortly after rain is ideal)
• Fertilise your lawn as per the label rates
• Water in thoroughly

Most turf surfaces require one or two applications of fertiliser during the spring and summer period, but this will vary based on the amount of wear your lawn is subjected to during the growing months. For fertilising we recommend using a granular fertiliser like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This fertiliser has a well balanced ratio of nutrients your lawn needs to thrive.

Mowing regularly

During this time it is also important to ensure you are mowing regularly to keep up with the growth surge. For mowing, we recommend mowing frequently enough so that only one third of the leaf blade is removed with each pass. Cutting this way will limit the amount of stress caused to the plant and help avoid scalping.

This extreme growth surge that occurs during spring will only last for a few weeks, at which time growth rates will normalise.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR)

If your lawn is growing too fast to keep on top of, you can look at using a plant growth regulator like Primo Maxx to help slow down the growth of your lawn. This product works by suppressing the plants vertical growth and increases the plants lateral growth. This helps your lawn become denser while reducing the number of times you need to mow.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

What is a Soursob?

Scientific name: Oxalis pes-caprae

Soursobs are regularly confused with creeping Oxalis due to their very similar leaf appearance. Soursobs spread with large heart shaped leaves along the ground, producing flowers with 5 petals and have a long white tuberous root. Cooler conditions are when Soursobs like to appear in Autumn and Winter. The problem with Soursobs is that they are extremely resilient to herbicides and have a fast-growing system of onion like bulbs growing beneath the surface. In addition to this, they have small secondary bulbs known as bulbils. These bulbils are attached to the root system and each Soursob can have as many as 20 bulbils! When you remove the plant, the bulbils are left behind that then detach and grow into a new plant and the cycle continues.

One of the most important things to do is to try and target Soursob before it flowers. It is when it is flowering that the bulbils are growing and creating more plants.

Flowering times:

• Winter to spring in western NSW.
• June to October in SA. (In SA 1.25 million hectares are infested!)
• June to October in WA.
• Mainly June to November in SE Australia.
• It does occur in QLD but dies out over time.

How to remove Soursob

Completely eradicating Soursobs from your lawn will take a bit of time and effort. Unlike many other weeds, it is not recommended to remove them by hand, as the bulbils will break off and continue to grow beneath the soil allowing it to reappear. There are also no selective herbicides readily available for domestic lawns that will target the Soursobs, so you will need to take a few other steps to try and remove it. Mowing them off regularly will weaken the plant helping your grass to overcome the infestation. Bulb exhaustion occurs just before flowering, so this is the perfect time to implement your mowing and non-selective herbicide application, when the plant is weak. This is the only stage that physical removal will be an option, by digging up under the plant and removing the soil around it as well.

You will be able to tell the plant is at the exhaustion stage if you carefully dig up a plant – the adult bulb will be shrivelled and the root under the bulb won’t have grown yet or is extremely young and thin. Spot spraying carefully or using a weed wand with an application of Glyphosate (Round Up or Zero) will be your best course of action, but you must be careful when applying as it will kill your turf as well. Acting quickly will also help you to stop them in their tracks before they produce more bulbils.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Armyworm, African Black Beetle larvae (lawn grubs), Cutworm, and other grubs can all quickly cause extensive damage to your lawn. But what if there was a way you could prevent these damage causing grubs from crawling throughout your lawn? Well, Acelepryn GR or Grub Guard Ultimate is your answer!

Prevention is the best solution

Grubs will often target the healthiest looking lawn on the street as their next tasty meal. When lawns get attacked by grubs, they often will have already created extensive damage before being noticed. Following an attack, the lawn can take a few weeks or a few months to fully repair itself. Instead of going through the long process of nursing your lawn back to health, prevention is a far better solution.

What is Acelepryn GR?

Acelepryn GR is an insecticide that provides your lawn with 6 months of protection from grubs and caterpillars like Armyworm in one single application. Acelepryn GR works by targeting a specific muscle receptor that is common with damaging causing insects. Other non-target organisms like bees, earthworms, birds, fish, and mammals don’t use the same muscle receptors, making it one of the safest insecticides on the market!

What is Grub Guard Ultimate?

Lawn Solutions Grub Guard Ultimate Turf Insecticide delivers excellent preventative control against a large range of common lawn pests.

Optimal results are achieved when applied early in the season at the appearance of overwintering adult pests.

This 4kg bucket will cover up to 500m2

The long residual performance of Lawn Solutions Grub Guard Ultimate Turf Insecticide will provide up to 6 months of protection at the higher application rates.

Curative control of pest outbreaks later in the season can also be achieved using the higher recommended application rates.

 

 

Grub Guard Ultimate prevents and treats a broad range of lawn pests including:

• • Lawn Armyworm

• • Lawn Curl Grub (African Black Beetle Larvae)

• • Argentine Stem Weevil

• • Blllbug Larvae

• • Sod Webworm

When should you apply Acelepryn GR?

As a general guide, Acelepryn GR is best used in September/October and March/April to prevent a grub attack year round. One application of Acelepryn will provide you with protection for up to 6 months. So, two applications per year will ensure your lawn is protected from grubs throughout the whole year.

How to apply Acelepryn GR?

For treating beetle larvae including African black beetle, Argentine Scarab, Argentine Stem Weevil larvae and Billbug Larvae, spread the granules evenly, 1-2kg per 100m2. We recommend using a calibrated spreader to ensure the granules are spread evenly to the lawn. You can also spread the granules by hand. After the granules have been spread out, give the granules a water in with a minimum of 3mm irrigation.

For Caterpillars including Cutworm, Armyworm, and Sod Worm, spread the granules evenly, 1kg per 100m2. Again, we recommend using a calibrated spreader for an even application. You can also spread the granules by hand. After application, delay mowing and watering for 24 hours. After 24 hours have passed, water the granules in.

Common signs of grubs

When grubs are present in your lawn, they will eat through your lawn’s roots. As the turf can then no longer absorb nutrients, the grass will become dry and straw like. When there is an infestation, large areas of the lawn will be affected quickly.

How do I know if my lawn has grubs?

If you think your lawn may already have grubs, it is best to do a quick lawn grub test. To do this, mix a bucket of soapy water and pour it over the edge of an affected area. Keep an eye on it and after about 10 minutes or so, usually if there are grubs there, they will come to the surface. This is best done at dawn or dusk when grubs are most active.

What to do if you already have grubs?

If your lawn already has a grub infestation, it is best to act quickly to help prevent further damage. Delaying treatment can cause a substantial amount of damage as the grubs will move fast along the lawn while laying eggs and increasing in numbers.

After you have identified there is an infestation, we recommend using a fast-acting product for a quick knockdown. We recommend using Lawn Solutions Grub Guard or Battle Insecticide to get the job done quickly. When using insecticides, it is always best to check the label for application and safety instructions.

The best time to apply the treatment is in the late afternoon/dusk when the lawn grubs are most likely to be active. To ensure you have treated the full lifecycle of the grubs, apply a second treatment in 2 weeks. This will help ensure that any eggs that may be in the lawn have been treated, avoiding a second attack. If you do still see these grubs after this, reapply every 2 weeks until they are gone.

Grub Treat and Protect Bundle

Protect your lawn from lawn pests with this one-two punch to treat an existing infestation and to protect your lawn for up to 6 months. If you have noticed damage to your lawn caused by black beetle larvae or Army worm, this bundle provides Grub Guard for a fast knock-down treatment, along with Acelepryn GR – the best product on the market for lawn pest prevention in lawns.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

“One year of seeds brings seven years of weeds!” – This could not be any truer than when it comes to the fight against Winter Grass in your turf.

 

If you have an invasion of Winter Grass, you’ll definitely want to treat it before it goes to seed.  If you allow it to drop its seeds, next winter it will be back, twice as bad as it was the previous year. Best plan of attack is to treat it as soon as it appears or better yet, apply a pre-emergent like Oxafert to stop it germinating at all.

What is Winter Grass?

 Winter Grass, or Poa annua as it is scientifically known, is a low growing turf grass. It has soft, drooping green leaves grown in tufts with triangular shaped seed heads.

Winter Grass is widespread in Australia and spreads throughout the cooler months.

When does it appear?

This weed begins germinating in the soil in some areas as early as March. You will start to see it emerging within your turf as the temperatures begin to decline. It will continue to spread throughout the Winter months.

How do I get rid of Winter Grass?

Winter Grass can be removed very easily by hand as it doesn’t have particularly deep roots. It doesn’t have any runners and will grow in simple clumps. Removing it by hand can be somewhat tedious so fortunately there are specifically targeted herbicide controls you can use.

Winter Grass Treatment

Winter Grass Killer is a selective control that will kill Winter Grass by targeting the roots, so it is extremely important to spray early in its life cycle before seed heads appear. Munns Winter Grass Killer is another option that is safe to use on kikuyu lawns.

Winter Grass Prevention

Targeting it before it emerges is the key to preventing it from germinating and going to seed. A pre-emergent like Oxafert can be applied and it will target the Winter Grass before it emerges from the soil.

A 3kg bag of OxaFert treats up to 100m².

Once it goes to seed, they will be present again in your turf the following year and the cycle will continue. Using a combination of a pre-emergent like Oxafert and a selective control like Winter Grass Killer at the correct time of year should ensure it is eradicated from your lawn.

Oxafert is also available in a 20kg bag known as Oxa-Pro

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.