Author: All Turf Solutions

Lawn mowing etiquette! Who would have thought right? Proper mowing times are an essential aspect of overall garden maintenance, ensuring a healthy and visually appealing lawn. Did you know that there is such a thing as mowing too early? In this article, we take a look into appropriate mowing times, also influenced by noise restrictions, to ensure you and your neighbours stay on each other’s good side and maintain positive community relationships.

Understanding Lawn Mowing Times

Why Timing Matters

Adhering to the right mowing times is crucial in the practice of regularly mowing your lawn, which is essential for maintaining its health and appearance. Just like electric power tools, powered garden tools, and construction noise, there are permitted hours in Queensland that serve as the ideal guide to when to mow your lawn and ensure that you don’t receive a noise complaint from your neighbours! This could see you fined anywhere up to $3,000.00. You wouldn’t want that whilst trying to maintain a healthy lawn through regular mowing!

Legal vs. Social Expectations

Learning the designated times for Queensland and respecting when it may be too late to mow even when you are still within the noise restriction rules may just help you stay in your neighbours good books and prevent a hefty fine! Expectations for mowing times can vary significantly across different types of residential property, reflecting the community’s standards and local regulations.

Guide to Queensland Lawn Mowing Times

So what time can I mow my lawn?

The Environmental Protection Act 1994 in QLD states that you are permitted to mow your lawn between 7am to 7pm Monday to Saturday. On Sundays and public holidays, you can mow between 8am to 7pm.

Want to know what the other Australian states have to say:

In New South Wales, mow between 7am to 8pm Monday to Saturday. On Sundays and public holidays, you can mow between 8am to 8pm. In NSW these rules have been set out by the NSW Department of Planning and Environment.

In Victoria, you can mow Monday to Friday between 7 am to 8pm. You can mow between 9am – 8pm on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, according to the Environmental Protection Authority Victoria.

In South Australia, you can mow between 7am to 7pm Monday to Saturday and from 9am to 7pm Sunday and public holidays. These rules have been set out by EPA South Australia.

In Tasmania, you can mow between 7am to 8pm Monday to Friday. On Saturdays you can mow between 9am to 8pm and Sundays and public holidays between 10am to 8pm. These rules have been set out by EPA Tasmania.

In the Northern Territory, you can mow between 7am to 8pm Monday to Saturday and 8am to 8pm Sunday and public holidays, according to the NT EPA.

In the Australian Capital Territory, lawn mowing can be done 7am to 8pm Monday to Saturday and 8am to 8pm Sundays and public holidays, according to Access Canberra.

In Western Australia, generally lawn mowers can be used between 7am to 7pm Monday to Saturday and 9am to 7pm Sundays and public holidays, for up to two hours within these time frames. This is for most regions within WA.

Noise Regulations and Recommended Equipment

Understanding Noise Levels

How noisy is your mower? A typical mower can emit sounds as loud as 80 to 89 decibels (dB). Prolonged exposure brings you closer to the danger zone and increases the risks of hearing damage. Whilst the distance between your lawn mower & your neighbours is enough to protect them from any hearing loss, the noise can be irritating.

Choosing the Right Mower

Hand

Ideal for small, flat lawns, hand lawn mowers are inexpensive, easy to use, and better for the environment. Designs have come a long way, making them a convenient choice that won’t take up much storage space.

Electric

Better suited to smaller areas, electric lawn mowers are light, portable, easy to store away, and simple to maintain. They do have a cord, which can be a minor hassle to drag around, and you’ll need easy access to a power source.

Cordless

Because they’re battery powered, cordless lawn mowers are a convenient way to mow mid-sized areas. They’re a lot lighter for portability and smaller for ease of storage. There’s no petrol to mix and no cords to drag around & batteries generally last up to 90 minutes, giving you plenty of time to get your mowing job done.

Petrol

If you have a big lawn to cover, petrol is the go! Some are also self-propelled, making them easier to push around large lawns. They’re more powerful than electric or cordless, and have a wider cutting diameter.

There are two types of petrol mower, 2-stroke and 4-stroke. The 2-stroke works best in small to medium areas. 4-stroke are more reliable, easier to start and can handle much bigger lawns. However, the 4-stroke needs a little more care.

Ride-on’s

For really big areas, like a paddock or oval, a ride-on mower will get the job done. They run on petrol and are a fast, comfortable way to mow.

Environmental Considerations for Lawn Mowing

If you are able to, replacing a petrol powered mower for an electric or battery powered mower will lessen the noise for your neighbours. As well as possibly encouraging more wildlife like native birds to visit your garden.

An awesome new addition to the mowing market would be the automated mowers! This conveniently does it all leaving you with no mowing worries! And is lovely and quiet for your neighbours!

Choosing quieter, less polluting mowers not only contributes to a more peaceful environment but also supports sustainable garden maintenance, ensuring your lawn remains healthy and visually appealing throughout the year.

Community Etiquette and Tips for Responsible Mowing

Best Practices for Mowing Without Disturbing Your Neighbour’s

Lawn Mowing Tips:

• Mow in the mornings or afternoons.
• Keep at a consistent pace.
• Mow regularly enough that only one third of the leaf is removed with each pass.
• Ensure your mower blades are sharp & ready to cut!
• Mow when your lawn is dry, avoid mowing when the lawn is wet.
• Mow at the same length & keep it consistent.
• Switch mowing directions each time you mow! A great tip is to follow the face of a clock.
• Keep your mower well maintained and operating properly. For example, a damaged muffler will cause the machine to make louder noises than normal.

Handling Disputes and Complaints

If your neighbours comes to you with a complaint about your lawn mower, always try to stay clam, positive and polite. Focus on the problem, and not the person. Always listen to their concerns and consider them seriously.

Always be constructive and try working on a resolution together and take time to work on the solution and get it right.

If you and your neighbour aren’t able to come to a resolution, then contacting your local council would be the next recommendation.

Conclusion

Don’t be the one waking your neighbours up before sunrise due to your lawn mower noise! Follow the Noise Restriction Rules to ensure you don’t receive any complaints or fines!

Whilst laying new turf onto existing grass is possible, it is not recommended as this will lead to issues in the long run and here’s why!

What to consider when laying new turf over old grass!

Laying your new turf on top of an existing lawn can be detrimental to the establishment of your new turf. Here’s some points as to why!

1. Turf requires at least 50-100mm of friable good quality topsoil to grow its roots into. Laying new turf onto your existing soil can be okay but you may need to complete a Ph test to ensure your soil quality is good or you may need to enhance existing soil.
2. Laying new turf on top of existing lawn and weeds can cause them to grow up and through your new turf. This will cause contamination to your new turf and be an up hill battle to get clean.
3. Your newly laid turf could shallow root, causing it to dry out quickly in hot and dry weather.

What’s Wrong With Your Existing Turf?

Let’s give you a burst of knowledge to see if you can identify what’s wrong with your existing lawn!

Hydrophobic Soil

If your lawn is suffering from dry patches or is hydrophobic a wetting may be needed to lay turf.

Hydrophobic lawns will pool water at the soil’s surface and will struggle to let the moisture soak down into the soil base. Dry patches or heat stressed turf can present in patches rather than across the whole lawn.

Wetting agents are best applied when the temperatures are cooler, either in the morning or afternoon. Repeated applications can be made every few months on an as needed basis.

A great product to use to help with Hydrophobic Soil is Lawn Soaker.

Compacted Soil

Soil compaction can occur as a result from high foot traffic in an area, from kids or pets, or in other frequently used areas. Heavier clay soils are very tight and bind together making compaction a common problem.

When compaction occurs, it can hinder the lawns’ ability to grow deeper into the soil. It can limit the amount of nutrients and water that can reach the root of your lawn.

To help alleviate heavily compacted areas aerate with a garden fork, aerating sandals or a tyne aerator.

Weeds

If you mow your lawn correctly and frequently, you should manage to avoid the invasion of most pesky weeds. But if you have found that some of these undesirable weeds are in your lawn, then there is a few methods for weed removal.

Here’s some options of weed removal:

• Hand Removal
• Post-emergent Herbicide (Weed Killer)
• Pre-emergent Herbicide
• Organic Options

To read more view the Lawn Weed Removal Guide here.

Pests

There are three types of lawn grub that eat the leaf of lawns in South East Queensland. These are; Army Worm, Sod Web Worm and Cut Worm. These are all larvae of small moths that are active from spring to autumn but are more common in the wetter months from December to May. Lawn grubs prefer healthy, lush turfgrass, so be on guard during this time.

Treatments include:

• Lawn Solutions Battle Insecticide
• Acelepryn 100ml
• Grub Guard Ultimate

Humps & Hollows

In most cases top dressing is done to correct poor preparation and lack of soil underneath or to fill in low spots and correct uneven areas in the lawn. If your lawn is well fertilised, healthy and even, then you don’t need to worry about top dressing.

Top dressing brings many benefits to a lawn that is looking a little lacklustre, including helping to reduce the accumulation of dead grass clippings and stems, known as ‘thatch’. It helps to increase nutrient retention, improves drainage, and increases disease and pest resistance.

Topdressing to Improve Levels

For top-dressing material for level improvement, we always like to use washed or screened sand. It doesn’t compact quite as hard as brickies sand. It is generally easier to screed and level due to the lower clay and silt content and reduces the likelihood of the surface crusting and becoming hydrophobic.

Top Dressing for Nutrients

This type of top dressing application places a thin layer of organic soil mixture over the area of your lawn and adds organic, natural nutrients and minerals. You would apply a top dressing for nutrients if your lawn is in need of a boost as it will encourage the production of new grass shoots and result in a thicker lawn with the added benefit of then hindering moss and weed infestations.

Applying a top dressing will introduce materials to your soil that will improve drainage, allow the soil to exchange gases with the atmosphere more effectively while also promoting the development of the soil’s micro-flora and micro-fauna needed to break down thatch and grass clippings. Top dressing matter will feed the earthworms too, releasing nutrients into the soil.

An added bonus is that top dressing allows the soil to retain moisture better during drier conditions as well as allowing excess moisture to drain away during heavy rainfall.

Bags of top dressing mixtures are readily available from turf lawn care centres and nurseries and provide all the relevant handling and application information. Work out the size of your lawn before you buy; as a general guide a 2kg bag will be enough to top dress a square metre of lawn.

Mow your lawn the day before applying the top dressing and rake up and remove any debris to allow the nutrients to effectively penetrate into the soil. Firstly shovel the top dressing into even piles around the area of lawn and then rake the mixture into the lawn until it looks as if the lawn has been lightly dusted and the tops of the lawn plants are above the dressing. Rake in a figure eight motion so that the top dressing mixture is spread evenly. Hose the lawn thoroughly so that the dressing is barely visible.

Diseases

Controlling diseases in your lawn! Purchase our broad spectrum fungicide Mancozeb to help treat most lawn diseases.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose diseases are common and destructive problems in golf course putting greens established with creeping bentgrass or annual bluegrass. Anthracnose may develop as a foliar blight, in which the turf grass leaves are infected, or a basal rot, which attacks the leaf sheaths, crowns, and stolons of the plant.

Brown Patch

The causal pothogen of Brown Patch is Rhizoctonia solani. Rhizoctonia solani is a soil borne fungus which can be found in most soils and is known as a cause of disease in both established and seedling turfgrasses. The disease does not produce spores, but instead spreads rapidly by mycelial contact. The disease is disseminated via movement of sclerotia which are produced and remain in thatch material.

Dollar Spot

Dollar Spot is a turf disease that effects many different turf varieties. As its name suggests, the appearance of this disease is identifiable as dollar sized spots of discoloured grass appearing within your lawn. Up close, the discoloured leaves will have straw-coloured lesions with red/brown edges to them. If left to spread the spots will get larger and form bigger patches of affected grass.

Fusarium

Fusarium patch is a type of fungal disease in turf caused by Microdochium nivale. Fusarium patch appears as circular, water-soaked spots, usually 5cm in diameter.

Getting the proper soil preparation

1. To prepare your soil for turf spray out any existing vegetation with Glyphosate. Please ensure to follow the labeled rates to allow for a total kill. Allow a minimum of two days for the chemical to work on the plant. A second application may be required.
2. Remove any existing grass and weeds or cultivate/rotary hoe this into the existing soil base.

TIP:

• For best results, cultivate, till or spade the area to a depth of approximately 150mm. This would be an ideal time to add in organic matter or soil amendments that may have been required from your earlier pH test.

3. Add in any turf underlay (sandy loam) required to make sure you have the best base for your new lawn. Always be sure to double-check your pH levels to ensure it is still within the appropriate range of 5.5 to 7.
4. Eliminate any drainage problems by having the soil slope away from foundations, footpaths, garden beds etc.
5. Rake and smooth the soil removing any rocks, roots or large clods.
6. Roll the area with a lawn roller this will help firm the soil and reveal low areas that need more turf underlay soil.
7. Keep the grade 20-25mm below sidewalks and driveways for the turf to sit into.
8. Screen off the soil to provide a smooth surface, roll then screen again. Your soil needs to be compacted enough that when you walk on it you only leave a small footprint.
9. Lightly wet the soil to minimise dust and provide a moist base for your turf, but not too wet that it turns to mud.

Turf Installation onto your freshly prepared soil

1. Apply a pre turfing fertiliser such as Lawn Launcher which contains fast and slow release fertiliser and water crystals. Rake this into the surface.

2. Install your instant turf as soon as the turf arrives.

TIPS:

• When turf laying, check that the soil is not too hot prior to laying turf. Lightly wet the soil down to cool it off.
• In hot weather, make sure you water each section as you lay to avoid the turf rolls drying out.

3. Begin lawn installation at the furthest point and along the longest straight edge such as a driveway or footpath. Stagger the joints in each row in a brickwork pattern, butting and pushing the turf edges against each other tightly. If laying turf on a slope, we recommend laying turf across the slope for best results.
4. Use a large sharp knife, garden shears or sharp spade to cut turf or trim around tress or edges.
5. After you’ve finished laying your turf, roll the entire area, this will improve the contact between the freshly laid turf and soil removing air pockets and help with levelling.

Days 1-7

• Watering twice daily in the morning and afternoon to the point of run off. In extreme heat conditions, you may need to water a third time to keep the leaf moist.

Days 7-14

• IF TURF PULLS UP – Watering twice daily, giving your new lawn a good soak.
• IF TURF WON’T PULL UP – Watering every morning.

After First Mow

• Watering once every 2nd day or as required preferably in the morning.

TIP:

• Whenever you finish a watering cycle, dunk a tea towel in water and hang it on the clothes line. Once the towel is dry, your lawn is ready for another drink.

The information provided above is a guide ONLY, please consider your current climate, weather conditions & temperatures when using this guide.

Now it’s time to enjoy your beautiful new lawn. If you have any questions regarding the ongoing care of your turf reach out to our friendly staff! They’d be happy to help!

Our expert advice will arm you with all the tips and necessary tools to get your soil prepared for laying your new turf.

Step 1: Identifying your soil type

Soil texture! Getting your soil right is one of the most important steps to preparing your soil for new turf. Let’s talk about what you’ve got and what you should have!

Clay Soils

Clay soils get really sticky when wet, and when they are packed together, it makes for a very heavy soil. A great way to tell if you have clay soil is if you can mould a sample into a ribbon and it stays together!

Clay soils hold too much moisture and don’t release it, which is bad for your grass! Because clay is a heavy soil, when it’s compacted, it doesn’t allow your grass to push its roots through and doesn’t allow air flow.

Silt Soils

Silt soils feels like flour through your fingers when dry and slippery when wet, not grainy or rocky. The ancient Egyptians farmed on silted land because it was fertile; the downside is that it was picked up by the next flood and carried away. When dry, silt is easily blown away.

Sand

You all know sand when you see it! Either at the beach or in a sand pit!

Water drains quickly from sandy soils, which is good in some ways as you are unlikely to have any drainage issues. However, as the water drains, it takes essential nutrients with it. Sandy soils also dry out quickly due to their open, free-draining structure and can become hydrophobic (water repellent).

Loam Soils

Loam soils generally contain more nutrients, moisture, and humus than sandy soils, have better drainage and infiltration of water and air than silt and clay-rich soils, and are easier to till than clay soils.

Top Tip:

If you have a clay base, we’d recommend applying Gypsum to help decompact the heavy clay soil and add a sandy soil under-turf.

If you already have a sandy base, mixing in some organic matter will help boost your base’s nutrients.

Step 2: pH Tests

Perform a pH test on your soil using a pH testing kit. This will help guide you with what treatments your soil may require before installing your new turf. We’d like to see your pH level between 5.5 and 7.

Step 3: The Proper Soil Preparation

Spray out any existing vegetation or weeds with glyphosate. Please ensure to follow the labelled rates to allow for a total kill. Allow a minimum of two days for the chemical to work on the plant. A second application may be required.

Remove any existing grass and weeds, or cultivate/rotary hoe this into the existing soil base.

Add in a turf underlay product to make sure you have the best base for your new lawn. Always be sure to double-check your pH levels to ensure they are still within the appropriate range of 5.5 to 7.

Eliminate any drainage problems by having the soil slope away from foundations, footpaths, garden beds etc.

Rake and smooth the soil, removing any rocks, roots, or large clods.

Roll the area with a lawn roller. This will help firm the soil and reveal low areas that need more turf underlay soil.

Keep the grade 20–25mm below footpaths and driveways for the turf to sit on.

Screen off the soil to provide a smooth surface, roll, then screen again. Your soil needs to be compacted enough so that when you walk on it, you only leave a small footprint.

Top Tip:

For best results, cultivate, till, or spade the area to a depth of approximately 150mm. This would be an ideal time to add in organic matter or soil amendments that may have been required from your earlier pH test.

FAQs:

What should you put down before laying turf?

Once your soil is prepared and ready for your new turf, you can spread a starter fertiliser, such as Lawn Launcher. This is a mixed starter, which includes water crystals and fertiliser.

Can you just lay turf on top of the soil?

Yes, if your soil quality is at a good pH and doesn’t require any amendments or underturf soil to relevel, you can lay it on your existing ground.

How do you flatten the soil before laying turf?

Rake, roll, and screen! Read above to find out more!

How do you enrich poor lawn soil?

Test your ground pH; this will help you understand what your soil requires to make sure you have the best growing environment for your new lawn! You may require Gypsum, Dolomite etc.

Can I lay turf on top of an existing lawn?

For a great result, it is best to remove any existing turf or weeds prior to installing your new lawn. You can either complete a total kill on the area using Glyphosate, followed by a rotary hoe in the existing lawn or weeds; otherwise, you can remove it with machinery.

How to Lay Turf: A Step-by-Step Guide

We are so excited to be included in your new lawn adventure! Our expert advice will arm you with all the tips and necessary tools to get an exceptional-looking lawn. This easy-to-follow step-by-step guide will show you just how to do it!

 

Step 1: Choose a suitable grass type

Turf is the smartest investment you can make for your home; there are so many more benefits than just adding value to your property. It creates a beautiful, soft, and safe place to play with the kids or pets; it has a natural cooling effect and benefits the environment by converting carbon dioxide to oxygen even more efficiently than trees.

Consider the following traits when picking your new lawn:

• Sun & Shade
• Salt-affected Environments
• Drought Tolerance
• Wear and Tear
• Cost and Maintenance (mowing & fertilising)
• Look and Feel

Reach out to our friendly staff if you require assistance with choosing the perfect instant turf, like buffalo grass for your area!

 

Step 2: Check your turf underlay soil

Perform a pH test on your soil using a pH testing kit. This will help guide you with what treatments your soil may require before installing your new turf on existing grass. We’d like to see your pH between 5.5 and 7.

TIPS:

• If you have a clay base, we’d recommend applying a clay breaker product like Gypsum to help de-compact the heavy clay soil and add a sandy soil under-turf.
• If you already have a sandy base, mixing in some organic matter will help boost your base’s nutrients.

 

Step 3: Measuring and calculating how much turf you need

Measuring the square metre of your turf can be super easy! Break up your yard into geometric shapes, then add all of these shapes together to find your square meterage.

TIPS:

• It is best to always use a consistent set of units, with millimetres and metres being the best.
• Always double-check your measurements, and get a family member or friend to check them too!
• After you have found your total m2, add 5% to the total to allow for cutting around odd shapes and objects.
• You can use a tape measure, a surveyor’s long tape, or a measuring wheel.

Step 4: Getting the perfect soil preparation

1. To start the preparation of your soil, spray out any existing vegetation with glyphosate. Please ensure to follow the labelled rates to allow for a total kill. Allow a minimum of two days for the chemical to work on the plant. A second application may be required.
2. Remove any existing grass and weeds, or cultivate/rotary hoe this into the existing soil base.
3. Add in any turf underlay required to make sure you have the best base for your new lawn. Always be sure to double-check your pH levels to ensure they are still within the appropriate range of 5.5 to 7.
4. Eliminate any drainage problems by having the soil slope away from foundations, footpaths, garden beds, etc.
5. Rake and smooth the soil, removing any rocks, roots, or large clods.
6. Roll the area with a lawn roller; this will help firm the soil and reveal low areas that need more turf underlay soil.
7. Keep the grade 20–25mm below sidewalks and driveways for the turf to sit into.
8. Screen off the soil to provide a smooth surface, roll, and then screen again. Your soil needs to be compacted enough that when you walk on it you only leave a small footprint.
9. Lightly wet the soil to minimise dust and provide a moist base for your turf, but not so wet that it turns to mud.

TIP:

• For best results, cultivate, till, or spade the area to a depth of approximately 150mm. This would be an ideal time to add in organic matter or soil amendments that may have been required from your earlier pH test.

Step 5: Laying your fresh turf slabs

1. Apply a lawn starter fertiliser such as Lawn Launcher which contains fast and slow-release fertiliser and water crystals. Rake this into the surface.
2. Install your new lawn immediately upon turf delivery.
3. Begin lawn installation at the furthest point and along the longest straight edge, such as a driveway or footpath. Stagger the joints in each row in a brickwork pattern, butting and pushing the turf edges against each other tightly. If laying on a slope, lay across the slope for best results.
4. Use a large, sharp knife, garden shears, or a sharp spade to cut turf or trim around trees or edges.
5. After you’ve finished laying your turf, roll the entire area; this will improve the contact between the turf and soil, remove air pockets, and help with levelling.

TIPS:

• Prior to laying turf, check that the soil is not too hot. Lightly wet the soil down to cool it off.
• If it’s a hot day, make sure you water each section as you lay to avoid the turf rolls drying out.

Step 6: Aftercare tips for the first 6 weeks

Days 1-7

• Watering twice daily in the morning and afternoon to the point of run off. In extreme heat conditions, you may need to water a third time to keep the leaf moist.

Days 7-14

• IF TURF PULLS UP – Watering twice daily, giving your new lawn a good soak.
• IF TURF WON’T PULL UP – Watering every morning.

After First Mow

• Watering once every 2nd day or as required preferably in the morning.

TIP:

• Whenever you finish a watering cycle, dunk a tea towel in water and hang it on the clothes line. Once the towel is dry, your lawn is ready for another drink.

The information provided above is a guide ONLY, please consider your current climate, weather conditions & temperatures when using this guide.

• During the first two to three weeks, avoid walking on your new lawn. This allows the root system to firmly knit with the underlay and ensures that the turf will remain smooth and free from lumps & bumps.

• Giving your lawn its first mow can be done once you can no longer lift any of the turf slabs. Depending on the turf varieties, this could be as little as 7 days! TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda will establish quickly during the spring & summer months. When giving your lawn its initial mow complete this on a slightly higher setting than normal and slowly bring it down to your preferred height.

• Lawn Care – Apply Lawn Solutions Fertiliser in 6-8 weeks to finish off the establishment period.

Now it’s time to enjoy your beautiful instant lawn. If you have any questions regarding the ongoing care of your turf, reach out to our friendly staff! They’d be happy to help!

 

How to Lay Turf FAQs

 

What do you put down before laying turf?

Apply a lawn starter fertiliser like Lawn Launcher starter fertiliser, which contains fast and slow release fertiliser and water crystals.

Does turf need to be rolled?

Rolling your new turf will help improve the contact between the turf and soil surface by removing air pockets and helping with levelling.

Do you put sand or soil under turf?

We recommend a sand, soil, and organic blend for the best results. This is generally a mix of the following:

• Washed river sand, medium to coarse particles
• Some heavier soil is generally added to help hold the moisture and is mixed with the sand to create a free-flowing profile for water movement.
• A composted material is then added, generally chicken or animal manure or natural nutrients to help balance pH levels.

How do you prepare soil for turf?

Test the pH of your soil using a pH testing kit. This will help guide you with what treatments your soil may require before installing your new grass turf, along with importing fresh under-turf soil.

How long does new turf take to root?

Depending on the turf varieties, this could be as little as 7 days! TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda couch grass will establish the turf area quickly during the spring & summer months.

How much soil do I need under new turf?

50mm to 200mm + depending on your situation. We say a good growing medium is 100mm plus.

Can you lay turf in winter?

Yes, you can, laying turf through winter is great because you don’t have water your lawn laid turf anywhere near as much as what you would during spring and summer. The only downfall with installing during winter is the turf varieties are in dormancy. The establishment period will be longer.

Is it better to lay turf or seed?

It is best to lay turf, here’s some cons to using seed:

• A lot of waiting for the seed to establish and become a lush green lawn. The time frame can be 8 weeks up to a year.
• Potential uneven germination. This can result in a patchy lawn.
• Weather can negatively impact germinating seeds. Your worst enemies are heat, high winds and high rainfall.
• You’ll use a lot of water so that your seed’s don’t dry out as they germinate.

How do I prepare the ground when laying on clay?

If you have a clay base, we’d recommend applying a clay breaker product like Gypsum to help de-compact the heavy clay soil and add a sandy soil under-turf.

Can you just lay turf over grass?

We wouldn’t recommend it, spray out any existing grass types and weeds with Glyphosate. Please ensure to follow the labeled rates to allow for a total kill. Allow a minimum of two days for the chemical to work on the plant. A second application may be required.

What happens if I walk on new turf?

If you walk on your new turf whilst it’s establishing this can cause diverts and lumps within your freshly laid turf. Try not to walk on your new lawn for two to three weeks, this allows the root system to firmly knit with the underlay and ensure that the turf will remain smooth.

When can I mow my newly laid grass?

Giving your lawn its first mow can be done once you can no longer lift up any of the turf slabs. Depending on the turf type you have, this could be as little as 7 days! TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda will establish fast during the spring & summer months. When giving your lawn its first mow complete this on a slightly higher setting than normal and slowly bring it down to your preferred height.

How long after laying turf can you feed it?

Apply Lawn Solutions Fertiliser in 6-8 weeks time to finish off the lawn establishment phase.

I have a dog. Will my turf survive?

The key is picking the perfect turf type to handle the wear and tear and your environment. Reach out to our expert staff for advice on which turf variety will suit you.

Zoysia turf varieties are a favourite when it comes to many Aussie homes for their fantastic colour and versatility across many areas, but what is the best variety? Zoysia Australis is the best option for families who use their area frequently. Sir Grange Zoysia is a premium low-maintenance option for a more sophisticated show garden or display area.

Best Zoysia for Families

Zoysia Australis is the best zoysia grass for families. It can stand up to the daily stresses that you and your family will throw at it, while still performing beautifully while still showcasing beautiful zoysia traits. Here are some of the main reasons why Zoysia Australis is considered the best zoysia for families:

• Has a good shade tolerance. Zoysia Australis needs a minimum of 4 hours of direct light and is well suited in full sun areas.
• Has a good wear tolerance and recovery for a zoysia. It can stand up to regular foot traffic from pets and kids and if it does become damaged, it will be able to repair itself quickly.
• Has a fast establishment. This means you can get out and use your lawn faster.
• Soft, medium leaf that feels great underfoot and great to play on.
• Has a beautiful blue/green colour.

Zoysia Australis is part of the Zoysia japonica family. It can stand up to the stresses of a family and pets and has shade tolerance to thrive where other grasses falter.

Zoysia Australis is one of the latest turfgrasses to hit the Australian market. It was bred by Dr. Brian Schwartz at the world-famous University of Georgia, Tifton campus. This grass has been undergoing trial work here in Australia since 2018 with a range of elite zoysia grasses, with Zoysia Australis coming up on top.

Best Zoysia for Show Gardens and Manicured Lawns

Sir Grange Zoysia is the best zoysia if you are after a high-end show garden! It has a stunning fine blade with a beautiful dark green colour. Sir Grange is a slow-growing grass, meaning it has lower mowing requirements compared to other faster-growing grasses. Sir Grange also can look great when mown as low as 5mm, maintained at any height and can even be left unmown for a more textured and landscaped look. This ability to be left unmown makes it ideal for areas that are difficult to mow.

Here are some of the main reasons why Sir Grange Zoysia is considered the best zoysia grass for show gardens and manicured lawns:

• Soft, fine, dark green leaf.
• Slow growing requires up to 50% less mowing than other common turf varieties.
• Can be mowed at a variety of heights – can even be left unmown for a more textured look.
• Is a low-input grass, requiring 75% less than other common turf varieties.

Sir Grange Zoysia also known as Zeon Zoysia is a fine-bladed Zoysia matrella. It was hand-selected from over 10,000 different turf cultivar varieties. Sir Grange was developed by one of the largest turf grass breeders, Blade Runner Farms in Texas, by Mr David Douget. Bladerunner Farms has the largest privately owned zoysia grass research facility in the world.

This grass has been used on many world-famous projects such as the Rio Olympics Golf Course. It can be seen on several courses designed by Greg Norman and Tiger Woods. This turf type was originally developed for the golf industry, but it was soon discovered that due to its characteristics, it would make a fantastic home lawn!

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Want to know some insider knowledge on how the turf professionals keep their grass in tip-top condition? In this blog, we catch up with three industry leaders within the turf world and hear some of their advice on how to take your lawn to the next level.

Joe Rogers – Lawn Solutions Business Development Manager

Lawn Tip 1. Mow Regularly

By mowing regularly, you can help promote lateral growth and encourage your lawn to form a tighter growth habit. This makes your turf more wear tolerant, more aesthetically pleasing and helps it naturally choke out weeds. The main reason why golf courses and sporting fields look fantastic is they are mown 2-3 times per week. By mowing frequently, you can drastically improve the look of any lawn quickly.

Lawn Tip 2. Be Disciplined in Your Approach to Fertility

Whether or not you are fertilising with up-front nitrogen every six to eight weeks or using a controlled-release product with more P & K & trace elements every six months, it is important to ensure you have discipline with your application. This includes ensuring timing is regular and as per the recommendations and ensuring you stick to label rates. Chemical companies put a lot of effort into ensuring label information is correct, so it is best you follow it.

Lawn Tip 3. Embrace Technology

New turf types and lawn care products are coming to the market regularly. Instead of avoiding them, use them as they will provide many benefits to your lawn. New turf types like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda and Sir Grange Zoysia require less inputs to produce better results. New turf care products have lower active ingredients, require fewer products and are safer to apply both for you and the environment. So rather than keeping to the same products that you have used for years, keep an eye on new and emerging technology to use it for your advantage.

Simon Adermann – Lawn Solutions National Manager

Lawn Tip 1. Ensure Mower Has Sharp Blades 

When mowing with blunt blades, bruising can occur to the leaf tips and a clean cut isn’t achieved. At the start of each spring, replace or sharpen blades ready for the growing season ahead.

Lawn Tip 2. Soil Analysis 

Getting the peak performance from your turf, or if your turf isn’t performing a soil analysis, is recommended in spring. With results and recommendations, you can then find the right nutrient balance for your soil to ensure your turf is healthy and get the most out of your fertiliser applications.

Lawn Tip 3. Water Management

Water management is critical during extended periods of dry weather. Using water-efficient turfgrass is the key; however, soil can become hydrophobic and water won’t penetrate well. Wetting agents like Lawn Soaker are a key solution for water management and will allow even water movement through the soil profile. This will improve water efficiency and help with evenness of colour and growth of your lawn.

Michael Sutton – AusGAP Program Manager

Lawn Tip 1. Understanding Nutritional Value 

It is important to have a basic understanding of what you are using and what will be the nutritional value it will have to the plant and/or soil. This way, you can help ensure your lawn isn’t getting too much of one nutrient and isn’t deficient of another. By understanding what to use and when, you can help deter other issues like disease.

Lawn Tip 2. Understanding the Site You Are Going to Turf

By understanding your site, if you want to install turf, you can then make a better decision of what varieties will be suitable for the area. Some main areas to look into include how many hours of direct light the lawn will receive, the existing soil type (and if amendments need to be made prior to installing turf) and who will be using the lawn.

Lawn Tip 3. Identifying Underlying Issues In Order to Treat and Address Any Ongoing Issues

So often we see people throwing a heap of expensive products at their lawns without getting to the cause of the problem, often making the issue worse or leading to wasted product and money. So, it is best to identify the problem, identify the solution and execute a treatment plan. If in doubt, consult with an expert.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.